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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 09:35 AM
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Good Day Friends of the FORUM..........I'm planning on changing spark plugs and wires. My question is after I proceed with this replacement would I have the computer re-tuned to tell it has new plugs and wires?
I'm from the old school when i would do a minor tune up , turn the key and fade in the horizon till i had to do it again

Thanks for reading and replies in advance
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 09:51 AM
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There is no need for a computer re-tune for new spark plugs and wires, re- tunes are only needed for more major performance upgrades.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:12 AM
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Thank you Sir for the info and quick response
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:21 AM
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If you’ve never changed a plug on these just be careful when tightening the plug to make sure you keep the socket parallel to the plug…you don’t want to crack the porcelain insulator especially on the back plugs.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 03:46 PM
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One last thing, make sure you apply a thin coat of anti-size on the new plugs.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 06:19 PM
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a lot of experts advise against anti-seize.
.

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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 08:08 PM
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I recommend using anti'sieze on c5 corvettes simply because you have a steel sparkplug and aluminum heads.
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 08:48 PM
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After helping build and tuning hundreds of vehicles over decades I Have a rationale for every procedure and this is how I view handling plugs

1. Do not touch spark plugs with bare human hands, wear disposable clean fresh new gloves
2. If using anti-seize place only a tiny dab about 5mm by 3mm, pressed into the threads so it is not thickly in the third dimension, at least placed 7 threads up from the business end of the spark plug (towards the highest threads away from the sparking end of the plug).
Over time, anti-seize will work its way down through the threads, oozing. It will also combine with oil as oil tends to accumulate around the threads acting as additional anti-seize.
The argument for anti-seize use is STRONG especially for brand new heads which are completely dry of lubrication. The argument is diminishing as oil accumulates in the threads as installing new plugs to previously wet threads with oil will act similar as anti-seize.
The argument against anti-seize is when novices who are, applying too much, too close to the end of the plug, and coming into contact with the plug with their dirty human hands and smearing anti-seize, oil, dirt, grease, cells (which contain organic and metallic components as skin cells have molybdenum, iron, sulfur, potassium, sodium, chlorine, etc... which you do not want burnt onto the plug)

Basically the spark plugs need to be sterile, super clean, like surgery going in, and anti-seize if used needs to be kept wayyy away from the ends of the plug.

Next,
3. Torque the plugs with a torque wrench if possible/necessary , and especially if you are not familiar with plug tightening procedures, to please read the service manual.
4. When setting plug gap, do not use sharp or hard tools as pliers or smashing the plug on surfaces. The gap needs to be set using a soft plastic tipped tool or similar so there is no indentations and deformation on the microscopic scale of the electrode which will interfere with the smooth flow of electrons. It is recommended to utilize a plug with pre-set gap, choose the gap you want in the plug before you buy it.

Plug recommendations
For natural aspiration, turbo, supercharger applications without nitrous, I recommend
NGK Iridium spark plugs
I've successfully used these NGK iridium in listed applications, particularly turbocharged Nissan, Toyota, Chevrolet, around 200hp/liter without nitrous.
They last 40k to 100k miles generally in these modern engines (Nissan Toyota 92-02 and Chevrolet 02-12)

Finally,
5. Do not remove spark plugs once installed. if you need to remove a plug for some reason, re-install a fresh new plug. Try not to re-use plugs. I know this sounds strange but, the cost of the plug is negligible with respect to the longevity expectations (around 10 years 100k miles from an iridium plug is ideal) and statistical inference of possible complications when re-using spark plugs.

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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:26 PM
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Thank you all for the advice . It will be taken in stride . As to clarify i have changed several sets of spark plugs in my time, but as stated they were Old school engines no computers . In my DD when they needed plugs i took it a mechanic shop and left it to be done. Now that I'm older and have a little time , I still like to do hands on jobs. One example is when i bought the 03 AE vert, i had to do research on cleaning and waterproofing the top. Why you ask, my first convertible was a 1964 4 door Lincoln continental . Cleaning the top was easy then . Now its a" Be careful" chore to clean and waterproof.
Please dont misunderstand me asking , But CF has a world of INFO that i go to first and foremost. Thank you for being helpful.
Aclassicnut 4ever
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Old Jan 18, 2023 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
After helping build and tuning hundreds of vehicles over decades I Have a rationale for every procedure and this is how I view handling plugs

1. Do not touch spark plugs with bare human hands, wear disposable clean fresh new gloves
2. If using anti-seize place only a tiny dab about 5mm by 3mm, pressed into the threads so it is not thickly in the third dimension, at least placed 7 threads up from the business end of the spark plug (towards the highest threads away from the sparking end of the plug).
Over time, anti-seize will work its way down through the threads, oozing. It will also combine with oil as oil tends to accumulate around the threads acting as additional anti-seize.
The argument for anti-seize use is STRONG especially for brand new heads which are completely dry of lubrication. The argument is diminishing as oil accumulates in the threads as installing new plugs to previously wet threads with oil will act similar as anti-seize.
The argument against anti-seize is when novices who are, applying too much, too close to the end of the plug, and coming into contact with the plug with their dirty human hands and smearing anti-seize, oil, dirt, grease, cells (which contain organic and metallic components as skin cells have molybdenum, iron, sulfur, potassium, sodium, chlorine, etc... which you do not want burnt onto the plug)

Basically the spark plugs need to be sterile, super clean, like surgery going in, and anti-seize if used needs to be kept wayyy away from the ends of the plug.

Next,
3. Torque the plugs with a torque wrench if possible/necessary , and especially if you are not familiar with plug tightening procedures, to please read the service manual.
4. When setting plug gap, do not use sharp or hard tools as pliers or smashing the plug on surfaces. The gap needs to be set using a soft plastic tipped tool or similar so there is no indentations and deformation on the microscopic scale of the electrode which will interfere with the smooth flow of electrons. It is recommended to utilize a plug with pre-set gap, choose the gap you want in the plug before you buy it.

Plug recommendations
For natural aspiration, turbo, supercharger applications without nitrous, I recommend
NGK Iridium spark plugs
I've successfully used these NGK iridium in listed applications, particularly turbocharged Nissan, Toyota, Chevrolet, around 200hp/liter without nitrous.
They last 40k to 100k miles generally in these modern engines (Nissan Toyota 92-02 and Chevrolet 02-12)

Finally,
5. Do not remove spark plugs once installed. if you need to remove a plug for some reason, re-install a fresh new plug. Try not to re-use plugs. I know this sounds strange but, the cost of the plug is negligible with respect to the longevity expectations (around 10 years 100k miles from an iridium plug is ideal) and statistical inference of possible complications when re-using spark plugs.
Wow thats a new for me never heard of this, friends have changed 100,s of spark plugs with dirty hands with no issues, The most issues is crossed threads and cracked porceliain like said above not dirty hands. so that is not needed. Ull see how tight some of thoughts sparks plugs are hard to get to. Do what u want, Just like guys use a torque wrench for 3 in lbs and end up breaking the bolt and take hrs to fix. U can hand tight more than 3 in lbs. Just an example how ridiculous some suggestions are.

PS now i see why GM charges 1000 dollar to change plugs following your procedure..
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Old Jan 18, 2023 | 10:08 AM
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You want to keep the spark plug ceramic clean, as dirt grease and grim give the high voltage an arch path to ground and results in failed sparkplug bolts and damage plugs.

Start the spark plugs by head and run them down with the socket until snug with you finger. Only then use the wrench to torque them to spec. It is way too easy to cross thread aluminum heads other wise.

Modern spark plugs have rolled threads and nickel plating that reduces the need for anti seize grease. Follow the spark plug manufacturer's recommendations.

Made sure to apply clear dielectric grease to the inside of the spark plug boots. If not the silicone spark plug boots will adhere to the spark plug ceramic insulators over time.
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Old Jan 18, 2023 | 06:00 PM
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There is a Snap-On double swivel spark plug socket that really helps in getting the rear most plugs removed.
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