2003 C5 convertible that I'm installing a Monster single disc kevlar clutch in. Have always had issues with the shifter after installing a short throw many years ago. Have tried two different brands (RSD and B&M) and have read a number of threads about shifter alignment. Have even gone so far as having the transmission rebuilt to get rid of the paper blocker rings. Just can't seem to find that sweet spot even though the alignment pin is lined up and fully inserted while adjusting. Bushings on shift box a like new. What am I missing?

 

may get some responses with a more descriptive post title ...

 

Thanks, new to this...

 

Changed title to be a little more descriptive and moving this to C5 Tech.

 

What issues are you having? Have you tried the "anti venom mod" ? I have a MTI shifter in my '03 Z and even with the anti venom mod it still requires a bit of effort to shift. Plenty of folks are fans of the C6 shifter and I was contemplating a change but I've just gotten used to what I currently have.

 

I replaced my original shifter with a MGW. There was marginal improvement in the smoothness and effort to change gears.

 

Still get a little gear crunching when shifting. Have already done the venom mod...

 

So, you wouldn't recommend the MGW?

 

Yes, the MGW made some difference but I was expectation much more. My SWAG, the design of the internal shifting system has a lot to do with how the snifter operates.

 

Just a point of clarification here, and this has nothing to do with the shifter, but the C5 never got paper lined blocker rings. They were all carbon right from the get go. If you have crunchy gears something else must be going on.

 

wrong sorry . Went paper in 2001 or 2002. With the steel forks

 

​​​​​​I was in my 04's trans as well as a C6 T56 this past summer, they were all carbon. Same material as was in my F body trans, same as what I bought to upgrade/rebuild said F body trans. Paper lined syncros died back in 94 or so.

 

Aside from the shifter, your lower box is the biggest factor for the shifter feeling vague and sloppy. The bushings that the shaft rides on are garbage, not just the torqe tube bushings around the bolts that you mount the box to the car with. It almost doesn't matter what shifter you are running if it's mounted to a worn out stock box. Here's an old video on what we do the the box and one on our upgraded shifter bushing. Those two parts will make your shifter feel light-years better and they will last the life of the car. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

I did the Anti-Venon mod with 2 washers and took my stock shifter and cut it down one inch on my 04 Z06. No regrets.

 

I'm not up to speed on all the named mods and whatnot so forgive me for my ignorance, but wanted to share my experience with the B&M that was in my 2001 when I got it a year ago. It was terrible - trying to downshift from fifth to fourth (or maybe second) at 60mph going in to a tame curve would have been ridiculously irresponsible of me.

First things to go in the garbage were the rubber mounts / bushings on the top of the lower shifter box. They'd long ago deteriorated, but even if new they would introduce more slop into a system that already has too much slop. I found some fender washers that were the right thickness to go between the TT and the lower body and then some thicker, stiffer washers above, and that solidified things immensely. Blue loctite those bolts btw.

Next, the upper shifter arm coupled to the lower arm with a fustercluck of oil damped rubber nonsense. I took the whole upper arm and chucked it in the trash after I took down it's dimensions. Turned a new piece out of 1.25" billet aluminum that slip-fit the lower shaft with very little tolerance, then affixed it with a countersunk allen bolt that when tight allowed zero play between the lower and upper. Blue loctite that one too.

Lastly, the pinch bolt connecting the shifter yoke to the shift shaft would never get tight enough that there was no side-to-side slippage when selecting a gate. It's been a while, but it seemed to me that the shift shaft and pinch block were made of aluminum, and the more I cranked on the pinch bolt the more I thought the next degree of rotation on the ratchet would be wiping the threads out. So I drilled through that sob and put a grade 8 bolt through the top into a nylon locking nut that I held in place from below. Was able to get 35 or 40 ft/lb of torque on that, and no slippage.

I also turned some of the ward / slide parts around in the B&M piece that had some wear on them.

Turned a piece of complete and utter garbage into something truly decent. I would say a work of art, but it's not that refined. Still needs forceful, intent shifts by someone with significant muscle tone.

Now if I miss a shift I'm the only one to blame.



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Edit: I may put the whole thing up for sale when I pull the driveline for a complete rebuild, to put a C6/Z shifter in it's place.

Also, if there's anyone in / near central Missouri who would like to drive it (with me as a chaperone) to attest to the "shift-ness", I'm willing, eager and able.

 

For me, putting fresh Amsoil in my tranny made a HUGE difference in shifting.
It was terrible shifting before the change, now it is acceptable.
5th, 6th, and reverse were hard to hit, now they are fine.

It is amazing how much a nice shifting tranny and a set of gears changes the personality of your car.
Getting the C5's shifting straightened out should be a priority for any new Corvette owner, it makes the car sooo much more fun to drive!

Cheers,
Roy

 

If your in the middle of installing a new clutch make sure you check the slave cylinder to clutch fingers clearances. I just changed out my old Monster clutch for the same model new Monster. The differences in the shims that I needed between the two was way more than I would have thought. Did you install a new Slave cylinder and adjustable master cylinder with the new clutch?