My 98 has just hit 50k miles....is this too late in the game to put a set of heads and cam in ? ?

"D"

 

IMHO, no; however, I'd check out the health of the engine first, e.g., leak-down, etc.

 

Na, you should be fine. Let us know if we can give you a quote... we have heads/cam packages in stock ready to ship :)

 

Whatcha got..and what would you recommend ? ?
Should I go with just a set of heads, or heads and cam ? ?

On a somewhat limited budget..so I cant go crazy.

Thanks

"D"

 

What stage would be good for me...what all combos does everyone have out there. I have pretty much most of the bolt on mods.

Ported throttle body
Ported MAF
Timing tricker
Ram Air kit by Corvette Concepts
Corsa Indy exhaust
Mallett Long Tube Headers
Corsa X-pipe
high flow carbon Fiber Air Bridge
Beru plugs
Taylor wires

"D"

 

Not too late. You can also go cam and headers only to save money, the heads cost a lot for the extra hp that they give.

 

I IM'd you :)

 

:iagree: Cam is a great bang for the buck mod. :yesnod:


[Modified by Steve02C5, 2:14 PM 1/12/2003]

 

50k is fine for heads and cam, my car is running great and making good power and has 62k now.

As for money, if money is tight install the stuff yourself (instructions in my sig) and save yourself $1000+ to spend on parts.

 

As said above bang and sound for the buck cam and headers is great. You can add the heads later.

 

hmm, since I have the headers....which cam is the way to go......I know this is gonna vary prolly, but what are some of the better ones...a little bit of a lumpy idle would be good too ! :D

 

MTI has the X1, T1 and C1 cams. I think the X1 is their latest design.

 

ThunderRacing 224/561/112 is about the perfect ,lumpy street cam that is still not to radical.

 

Ck out comp cams extreme line also watch how big of cam you decide any thing above the teens in duration at fifty you will need computer programming . Comp cams footnote will tell you other reccomended mods for there cam. Call Chris Padgent at comp. for recc. and compare to others BIGGER IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER CONSIDER FUTURE MODS [CONV. GEARS]

 

About programming, all I can say is that the next smaller TR cam, the 220/551/114 was put in by my dealer with new rings and all mods in sig at 25,000 and no programming. Something may be off, but it truly runs like a new vette, with no problems, and big hard pull.
Now, the 224 cam might be different and need some help.

 

The dealer had no qualms about installing an aftermarket cam?? Don't laugh, but do you still have the factory warranty, if so, the dealer won't hassle you in the future if warranty work is req'd?

 

Question: "but do you still have the factory warranty, if so, the dealer won't hassle you in the future if warranty work is req'd?"

Yes, my local dealer will warranty the rest of the car, things like radio, radiator, window motors etc. I would not ask or expect GM to warranty a cam I purchased from ThunderRacing Co. I would go to TR for any cam warranty if they even offer any.
I would however ask my dealer to warrany items like my Stock replacement Z06 clutch and heads. But honest I don't know if my dealer would warranty those items. Those Items are original GM, but the heads were used take-offs and I purchased the clutch from Fichtner Chevrolet (supporting dealer) so that is a gray area.
My general feeling is that the car won't break unless I abuse it, now that I have gotten to know it pretty well for 2 years and 26,000 miles.
But I have to say I have a great dealer who really treats us hot rodders rignt! I did not even buy the car there!

 

How much for cam installation? Anyone?
There is a instruction link from a forum member but I am just afraid to do it myself ...
:cheers:

 

Kinda in the same boat myself....dont have the time, or space to do it.

"D"

 

Cam swaps are not easy... and I've done several and have the tools and lift to make the job as easy as possible. The labor to swap a cam is about $1000 give or take $200. I know this is a big span but some shops will remove the heads and some will not. If a dealership does it... the heads will come off... per the book. For a cam swap only we will not remove the heads... we pull the valvetrain and insert custom rod/magnet assemblies that hold the lifters up so the cam can be removed... one of very few procedures where we will deviate from the book. It has been posted before that some spin the cam to push the lifters up into the retainers before pulling the cam out. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee a lifter will not drop... making impossible to install the new cam. Other things to consider before tackling this yourself is the rack has to come out. Torquing/degreeing the harmonic balancer can be tricky on jack stands... especially if you do not have a flywheel lock. Its been done... but I wouldn't do it without a lift. The front engine cover plate should be aligned properly before torquing the bolts. People have cracked their covers and/or experienced severe oil leaks because the alignment tool was not used. I not saying its impossible... nor am I trying to scare anyone into paying to have it done. I am just informing folks of important portions of the task... and how involved it can be.

:cheers: