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I had a new passenger motor installed and after a few weeks the headlight would not go up. I disconnected the motor switch from the Headlight control module as shown and made sure the connectors were tight fitting and free of any 'stuff'. Since doing it, no further problems.
What happens when you turn on the headlights with the stalk? Are the light bulbs functioning correctly? High , low, etc....
The reason why I ask is the motors are dependent on the resistance of the bulbs where the stalk is set ( high or low). If they sense the bulb is not there or burned out, the buckets will not close.
Did you by any chance unplug any of the low or high beam bulbs?. Check that....
Okay, if the bulbs are disconnected or burned, the buckets will raise but won't go down if it's a bulb issue.
If your twilight is on in the garage with ignition on or car running, are you getting all the lights to come on other than the buckets? taillights, interior instrument lights, etc....
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and have everything reset?
So I just tried Twilight mode in my garage in the dark again. Whether I'm cycling Twilight mode on or off with the car running none of the lights turn on or off. None of the interior or exterior lights.
Originally Posted by corvettezman
Okay, if the bulbs are disconnected or burned, the buckets will raise but won't go down if it's a bulb issue.
If your twilight is on in the garage with ignition on or car running, are you getting all the lights to come on other than the buckets? taillights, interior instrument lights, etc....
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and have everything reset?
Last edited by Zandelay_Industries; Mar 15, 2023 at 11:00 PM.
Hey guys looking for some help on an issue that happened last night I replaced the passenger side front turning signal bulb and the driver's side 194 bulb. Now all of a sudden my headlights won't pop up or down or turn on. I've tried manually raising them to see if manipulating the switch would bring them down (no luck) If I pull the stalk towards me the high beams will still flash, if I push it forward I get no light. When manipulating the stock to pop the headlights up It makes no noise so I don't think it's a gear issue (Plus the gears were replaced by the previous owner to brass) I checked fuses 8,9,10, and 12 but they all looked fine Had a trickle charger on the battery all night and the battery is good. So I know that's not the issue Anyone have any wisdom of advice they can impart on a new C5 owner 🙏🏼
OK, what year is the car ??...there are wiring differences between model years...how did you replace the turn signal bulbs ??...what method ??...and so the headlight buckets don't pop up AND the headlights don't work ??..did you check for any codes ??...now you said you "CHECKED" the 4 fuses...how did you check them ??...a visual isn't good enough !!...you have a 12 volt incandescent test light ??...and are you using any type of schematic or just winging it ???
I went in from under the car after taking off the plastics in the corners.
Headlights don't go up or down and headlights don't work
Visually checked the fuses as well as tested them all with a voltmeter on both sides I've looked at two wiring schematics and although bouncing questions off of friends and the wonderful folks in forums and Facebook groups It might as well be hieroglyphs to me lol I tried to give as much info in the original post (just updated it) hoping something would stick out to someone
Get yourself a 12 volt incandescent test light and an T pin and I’ll try to help you…if you don’t know how to backprobe a connector so watch the video.
Get yourself a 12 volt incandescent test light and an T pin and I’ll try to help you…if you don’t know how to backprobe a connector so watch the video.
OK, below is the wiring for the headlights...the buckets only work if the AC HDLP Relay is working...ARE THE LOW BEAMS FILAMENTS GOOD ??....with the headlights turned ON see if you have power to each 5 wire connector as was illustrated in post # 6...feed for left low beam is the yellow wire on left side harness side and the tan/white on the right side harness side...backprobe these 2 wires with connector plugged in...does your test light illuminate ??...also with the headlight switch ON you can see if the WHITE input wire (pin A) at the HD module C1 is being powered...I believe you said no power there...when the white "headlamp on" input wire is powered the light green and light blue wires are powered to raise the buckets...also check for ground at the module...it is the black wire so remove the connector and with 12 volt test light connected to battery POSITIVE probe that terminal...the test light should be bright...Relay 44 (ALC HDLP) is used in that circuit...I would remove the relay and see if 2 of the terminals have power with your test light...if not swap it with another 4 blade relay such as the horn...I'll stop here....also you said the high beams work with the "flash to pass" so we know the wiring from the red wire F4 on the C2 connector is good from the fuse box down to the high beams.
This is not my strong point and friends. Where do u get the grond to check voltage?? From the ground on the plug or chassis??
Don't understand what you mean by "get the ground to check voltage" ??...to check the grounds in this particular case I would disconnect the 5 wire harness connector on each side and then hook the test headlight of the comparable amperage to the “load” or "low or high beam headlight" to battery positive..I then connect the other lead of the test headlight to each of those 2 grounds G101 and G102...if the ground is good the test light will burn brightly telling me the ground can carry that current flow BACK to the battery !!...you don't use a voltmeter or check the ground using resistance with an ohm meter especially on high current flow circuits.
Don't understand what you mean by "get the ground to check voltage" ??...to check the grounds in this particular case I would disconnect the 5 wire harness connector on each side and then hook the test headlight of the comparable amperage to the “load” or "low or high beam headlight" to battery positive..I then connect the other lead of the test headlight to each of those 2 grounds G101 and G102...if the ground is good the test light will burn brightly telling me the ground can carry that current flow BACK to the battery !!...you don't use a voltmeter or check the ground using resistance with an ohm meter especially on high current flow circuits.
Ok so my understanding is ur adding ur own source of power to make sure to rule out bad ground. If that right ,that's what i was asking just not in the right terminology. So ur way is awesome that will definitely rule out bad ground. Im i on the right path here know understanding?? Wow this can be used in multibile troubleshooting on other electrical issues. Hope i just didn't make a fool of myself.
Ok so my understanding is ur adding ur own source of power to make sure to rule out bad ground. If that right ,that's what i was asking just not in the right terminology. So ur way is awesome that will definitely rule out bad ground. Im i on the right path here know understanding?? Wow this can be used in multibile troubleshooting on other electrical issues. Hope i just didn't make a fool of myself.
Yes, I’m using a “load” to substitute for the headlights that don’t work…you can use this “substitute” load to not only check grounds but also to check the power side…you did NOT make a fool of yourself…a LOT of professionals don’t understand this either so if you learn these methods you’d be way ahead of these pros” !!…watch this video from the 55:30 minute mark for training !!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
