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Yes, I've done a search but don't see what I'm looking for. I understand the torque specc on the nut for the outer tie tod end is 15 ft lbs. then tighten 160゚, then 33 ft lbs.
However, if one tightens the castle nut 160゚ after the 15, 33 ft lbs has well been exceeded. What's the point in stating 33 ft lbs when it's probably already at 60 ft lbs?
I'm assuming the 160゚ of tightening pulls the tapered stud up into the spindle. I wondered then if you're supposed to loosen the nut, then tighten to 33 ft lbs.
I just crank 'em down to German torque. If you don't have a bonzai impact gun, give it the ugga duggas until it stops. That said, they probably want you to crack the nut loose after the 160 and set it back down to 33ft/lb. You can feel when it doesn't want to go anymore, that's about the point you stop. Just enough tension on the fasteners so you don't induce any irreversible stretching.
33# is the minimum torque to check for. 15#_160°_then verify 33# torque. And after all that if the castle nut doesn't line up with the cotter pin hole its acceptable to go forward to line it up. I guess just a long way of saying 33# torque verification after 160° rotation.
IIRC, the reason for the funky torque procedure, is because the spindles are aluminum, which can distort, if the tie rods are overtightened. Secondly, again, IIRC, these are not the traditional "castle nuts" with cotter pins. They're a hex nut with some sort of "crush washer" built into them..