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A lot has changed in offerings for clutches since the last time I had to buy a clutch (I bought an LS7). I’ve used different clutches over the years and generally the sticky single disc ones aren’t very streetable at the power levels I’m trying to hit.
looking for a good street clutch, not to heavy, not too chattery, hopefully not a pain to install either, and with decent longevity. Twin disc, for my 02 Z to put behind a N/A 427 and I want one that will hold 800rwhp/ft lbs to buy myself some headroom. I’m familiar with the street twin, but now I see offerings from monster, spec, and act, among others.
anyone have any input based on first hand experience?
I'm currently in the break-in process on a Monster LT1-S (twin w/700 ft/lb rating). First impression was the pedal felt ever so slightly stiffer, but after driving just a little more, I don't feel a difference. It does make a little additional noise at idle, but nothing annoying. So far, add me to the list of people that would recommend it. If you're looking for more holding power, I believe the LT1-SC is the next step up.
I'm currently in the break-in process on a Monster LT1-S (twin w/700 ft/lb rating). First impression was the pedal felt ever so slightly stiffer, but after driving just a little more, I don't feel a difference. It does make a little additional noise at idle, but nothing annoying. So far, add me to the list of people that would recommend it. If you're looking for more holding power, I believe the LT1-SC is the next step up.
it takes a while for the master and space to settle. I’ve also heard gold things about monster
did you have your flywheel sent out to match balance? It’s a hot topic amongst this group
it takes a while for the master and space to settle. I’ve also heard gold things about monster
did you have your flywheel sent out to match balance? It’s a hot topic amongst this group
What do you mean time for the master and slave(?) to settle? As in pedal effort or noise? I did have a new master and slave installed at the same time, but after researching the noise (just to confirm there wasn't an install issue or something lol), turns out it's perfectly normal for twins to make a little noise.
No, the kit comes with a flywheel that's already matched/balanced. I didn't know you could buy one from them without the flywheel and I didn't know that was hot topic haha. All I ever see is people talking about having no issues and loving it.
What do you mean time for the master and slave(?) to settle? As in pedal effort or noise? I did have a new master and slave installed at the same time, but after researching the noise (just to confirm there wasn't an install issue or something lol), turns out it's perfectly normal for twins to make a little noise.
No, the kit comes with a flywheel that's already matched/balanced. I didn't know you could buy one from them without the flywheel and I didn't know that was hot topic haha. All I ever see is people talking about having no issues and loving it.
several kits offer match balance just wondering if you got that done
You asked about 1st hand experience. I went with the monster LTI-S twin disk 3 years or so ago and it has performed flawless behind my 585 RWHP SC LS1. To me - it feels like stock. Can't recall if it is rated to 800 lb/ft of torque you are after or. If you buy directly from Monster, they do offer the service of having you send in your old clutch and PP and matching the IMBALANCE to the new monster clutch & PP. They built a fixture to easily do this.
Local machine shops can't efficiently do this for you (from a few I talked to). I don't think most people really under stand this. Essentially most LS1 M6' cars have an intentional small external balance done on purpose by GM (during a Hot Balance process) to ensure minimal/no annoying vibration to buyers of M6 cars (the auto cars did not need this). I have looked into this extensively and most just swap and there are NO issues. However, a few unlucky souls end up with an annoying vibration that makes them wish they had matched new to old. I would either send in my old assembly ahead of time to Monster and have it matched - or at least hold onto you old assembly in case you end up with a nasty vibration - that gives you the option of taking it apart and sending both assemblies back after the fact. A few people have had a shop do the work, end up with an annoying vibration and by the time they figure out their clutch needs to be matched balance to the old - the old stuff is gone to the recycler and they are screwed.
I would give the monster lt1-s 2 thumbs up.
More on the clutch match balance topic.
I'm currently in the break-in process on a Monster LT1-S (twin w/700 ft/lb rating). First impression was the pedal felt ever so slightly stiffer, but after driving just a little more, I don't feel a difference. It does make a little additional noise at idle, but nothing annoying. So far, add me to the list of people that would recommend it. If you're looking for more holding power, I believe the LT1-SC is the next step up.
Same here. I've put just under 400 miles on the same clutch. I went from an LS7 with Tick Master to the Monster Twin. The first few times I drove it I noticed a firmer pedal but now it has become very smooth and not any firmer than the LS7 set up. There is a little chatter but I really enjoy how it engages in the middle and is not an on-off-switch clutch. I opted going with the 20b billet flywheel and it seems to rev quicker and rev matches downshifts better than the heavier flywheel.
Same here. I've put just under 400 miles on the same clutch. I went from an LS7 with Tick Master to the Monster Twin. The first few times I drove it I noticed a firmer pedal but now it has become very smooth and not any firmer than the LS7 set up. There is a little chatter but I really enjoy how it engages in the middle and is not an on-off-switch clutch. I opted going with the 20b billet flywheel and it seems to rev quicker and rev matches downshifts better than the heavier flywheel.
I'm approaching the same mileage on my break-in and agree. It felt pretty grabby with a shorter engagement window at first, but it's definitely smoothing out nicely.
I'm also using the LT1-S with lightweight flywheel. Its been on an HPDE car for 3 years (I think or maybe 4). I used a local old-time type of engine building race shop that knew exactly what I was talking about for the balance. They did a great job and its as smooth as stock.
I did remove the clutch assist spring and like the feel better.
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