Theres a ground splice pack behind the battery i think i had seen it was for 4 o2 sensors, maf and possibly tac module or tps i think i had read about a year ago and is a ground 1 wire that goes behind the drivers side engine i think i seen when putting the car back together. Mine is a little old so i was possibly going to change it can anyone confirm which sensors or all tied into that ground splice pack behind the battery?

 

SP122 is behind the battery and a ground wire from it goes to G105 which is on the left engine block next to the upstream O2 sensor...there are 4 wires for the O2 heater ground, engine oil level switch and the ground for the fuel pump relay control.

 

Thanks for the information. I thought i read somewhere the maf and or TAC module ground is tied into it or is it just what you told me above? That helps alot i was wondering what all is tied into that mine is a bad shape from im assuming battery acid not sure if that would mess up plastic or not? Just metal and paint not sure. The hard black plastic on mine is missing and its just the white metal cap and the wires with spade terminals pushed onto the one ground connection. Im assuming battery acid can eat thru that black plastic over 24 years leaving the white metal top plastic piece with the spade terminals showing? I have an extra ground splice pack just not sure if theres a way to replace it without having to cut the wire and butt connect each wire to the other splice pack?

How hard is it to replace if the hard plastic casing is gone and just the metal spade terminals pushed onto white metal cap with prongs for the tied in ground connection?

 

If you have a new splice pack just depin those connectors if they are still good and install the wires into the new splice pack...I stay away from butt connectors but solder and heat shrink instead.

 

Are all the ground splice packs the same and or black plastic casing different wire colors ? I dont have a new one do they sell new but my father has two other c5 project hes working on and have a few of these ground splice packs do i just need to depin them from anyone of the black splice packs and slip my terminals into the new black casing? Are the ones behind the battery specific fitment or any black casing ground splice pack work and does the white top part with the metal ground union with prongs made into the black casing or does it clip together.

 

Is there a compelling argument for not cutting the ends, grouping into a ferrule, and soldering instead?

 

No.
If gm had done that, we would have had much less ground issues

 

Here is a splice pak I found online. https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1997...-853187-1.html


Hope this helps.

 

Edit: Only because in my time, we didn't have "kits" let alone a splice kit. WTF is that and do they really protect the grouning points? Cheers!!!

 

We share your pain brother. I got so mad chasing an electrical problem that I took drastic action. For the ground connectors behind the headlights, I cut the OEM ground connectors, solder all the wires together to a ring connector, bolt the ring connector to the grounding post, solder the ring connector to the nut, and the nut to the post (essentially I solder the ground wires to the chassis). Then I cover the whole connector in plastic paint to protect it from the weather. Now those two ground points are never going to fail. GM should have just done that to begin with, and our blood pressure would have been much lower. Specific to SP122, I solder all those wires to a 12 gauge wire with a ring connector, solder a bolt to one of the holes on the battery support you see in the picture and bolted the ring connector to the bolt and grounded it right there. I will put it out there, the splice packs are only a temporary solution. For any further ground points that fail on my car, I am bringing out my soldering gun.

 

If i might make one suggestion, there is a conductive protective compound I’m going to try when I go to ring connectors. Just wanting to be a little less permanent than soldering directly to the chassis.
https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-t...hoCnCsQAvD_BwE

 

If i might make one suggestion, there is a conductive protective compound I’m going to try when I go to ring connectors. Just wanting to be a little less permanent than soldering directly to the chassis.
https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-t...hoCnCsQAvD_BwE

 

I put this **** on everything...
https://www.corrosionx.com/products/...31599866576992
No really. Its not just for electrical grounds. The stuff works to help prevent corrosion and as an Anti-seize. Good stuff

 

Does the black part on splice pack with terminals have a clip to remove it? So with what im looking at would i need a black casing to reinsert the spade terminals or you're saying simply cut and resplice or solder a whole splice pack?

Mine is just as this its missing the black casing and just the bare terminals were depinned or the casing had corroded from battery acid and all thats left is the white top with the terminals individually pushed on. These are good points i discovered the rear ground to the engine block when doing the torque tube.
As i think the maf, Tac module maybe tied onto this if one of the terminals were too loose or not making contact with the white solid metal end connector it would have trouble starting. These are usually cold starts once im out and running errands it starts right up.
It is something i wanted to repair as it would look better if the casing was still intact with the ones from the headlights or interior that i've seen.

Corvette C5 Splice Pack Service Kit | eBay
C5 Corvette Splice Pack Service kit | Revolution Electronics

 

This one isnt a photo of mine but yes im looking for the black casing to resinsert the terminals and have it on there correctly vs individual spade terminals.

Would be easier to just depin the inside connectors on a different casing and insert mine or saying to cut and solder the wire 2"-3" in length? Are all the splice packs the same just that the ones for interior headlights have the metal tab that could be bolted down or whichever so theyre grounded already?

 

Electrically the spice pack tie all the wires together. I am saying forget the spice packs and just solder all the wires together. My opinion is that doing the spice pack will eventually lead to the same problem you have today. I also grounded it there as it is a convenient grounding point. Full disclosure, I don't have the battery there any more, it is moved to the trunk. But I also tied the battery ground to the battery support you see in the picture.
It is up to you how you want to tackle it. I just decided never to mess with the spice packs, they will all eventually get gummed up again, it is just a matter of time.

 

G101 left front frame (with SP101)
G102 right front frame (with SP100)
G103 left front of engine
G104 frame next to battery (with G108 & SP102)
G105 left lower engine block, engine ground strap & wire
G106 Battery negative pole
G107 Left rear head
G108 frame next to battery (with G104)
G201 bottom of A-pillar, left (with SP201 & SP203)
G202 bottom of A-pillar, rt, bolted at the bottom (with SP202)
G205 inside door pillar driver seat (with G301)
G301 inside door pillar passenger seat
G302 inside door pillar driver seat (with G205)
G401 left rear outer frame
G402 right rear inner frame
SP201 bottom of A-pillar, left (bolted with G201)
SP202 bottom if A-pillar, rt (bolted to G202)
SP203 bottom of A-pillar, left (taped to wire bundle, with G201 coming out of it)

G101: windshield washer fluid pump
Windshield washer fluid level switch
Brake fluid switch
Headlamp door assembly, left
G102: cooling fan, right
Cooling fan 3 relay 44
Horn assembly
Under hood lamp
Headlamp door assembly, right
Headlamp door control module
A/c compressor clutch
A/c compressor clutch diode
Secondary air injection pump
G103: Electronic brake control module (ebcm)
G104: battery negative pole
Splice pack SP102:
Marker lamp, right front
Marker lamp, left front
Park/turn signal lamp, right front
Park/turn signal lamp, left front
Turn signal lamp, right front
Turn signal lamp, left front
Splice pack SP208:
Body control module (bcm)
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Data link connector (dlc)
Inflatable restraint & diagnosis module
Inflatable restraint ip module disable switch
Park/neutral switch
Remote control door lock receiver
G105: fuel pump relay 35
Engine oil level switch
Heater O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1
Heater O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 2
Heater O2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 1
Heater O2 sensor, bank 2, sensor 2
G106: battery negative pole
Ignition relay 42
Powertrain control modules (pcm, 4 wires)
Throttle actuator control module (tac)
Mass airflow sensor (maf)
G107: ignition control modules 1-3-5-7
Ignition control modules 2-4-6-8
G108: Electronic brake control module (ebcm)
G201: Splice pack SP201:
Data link connector (dlc)
Air temperature actuator
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Traction/suspension control switch
Driver door module (ddm)
Door latch, driver
Auxiliary power outlet
Windshield wiper motor
Steering column lock
Footwell courtesy lamp, left
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Hazard switch
Telescopic actuator switch
Splice pack SP203:
Remote CD changer
Fuse block I/P
Speaker, right door
Speaker, left door
Radio
G202: Splice pack SP202:
Passenger door module (pdm)
Door latch, passenger side
Body control module (bcm)
HVAC control module
IP compartment lamp
Footwell courtesy lamp, right
Vanity mirror lamp, left
Vanity mirror lamp, right
Inside rearview mirror
Bose relay 45
Ignition switch
Blower motor relay c60
Blower motor control processor
Hood ajar switch
Cigar lighter
A/t shift lock control solenoid
G205: seat belt switch, driver
Seat control module (scm), driver
Seat pump, driver
Seat belt switch, driver
Seat relay center, driver
G301: defogger grid
G302: Splice pack SP302:
Seat relay center, passenger
Seat pump, passenger
Rear compartment courtesy lamp, right
Rear compartment courtesy lamp, left
Rear compartment lid latch
Rear compartment lid latch, right
Rear compartment lid latch, left
Folding top lid latch
Folding top release switch
Fuel door lock actuator
Radio power antenna
G401: Splice pack SP400:
Fuel pump & sender assembly, left
Fuel level sender, right
Tail, stop, turn signal, rear left
Tail, stop, turn signal, rear right
Center high mounted stop lamp
Backup lamp, right
Backup lamp, left
License lamp, right rear
License lamp, left rear
Marker lamp, left rear
Marker lamp, right rear
G402 electronic suspension control module (esc)

 

All splice packs that use the quick-connect metal displacement connection technology should be removed and replaced with crimped butt-joint connectors that are soldered after crimping. From a separate post started a long time ago by Bill Curlee
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tion-long.html
reference a factory engineer recommended exchanging the splice packs with soldered connections to replace them.
Here's the reason: the metal displacement connectors have a V shaped connection where the wires are inserted and the insertion tool is applied, the V cuts through the insulation, and makes a connection by displacing a small amount of metal from the wire and termination pin. These connectors can be crimped with wires only once. This connection is subject to fretting corrosion. For a pretty good overview of fretting corrosion, refer to the lecture at .
The fretting corrosion will cause the impedance of the connection of the wire to the connector pin to increase and ultimately fail.
Since all of these connections will ultimately fail, ;they need to be replaced with a technology where vibration won't cause the connection to fail.
There seem to be a lot of splice packs used. I have started replacing the ones "in the open" in the engine bay primarily used for ground splicing. But they all have to go.
The other problem is where wires are attached to the frame. This is where galvanic corrosion can happen. For an overview of this, see
https://armoloy.com/understanding-ga...and-solutions/
Because we can't electroplate the steel studs with copper or tin/lead, there will be many ideas of how to best solve the galvanic corrosion issue at the studs. My opinion is as follows:

1. Remove the paint/corrosion on the stud and on the frame around the stud exposing bare metal.
2. coat the stud and frame with a copper-colloidal grease such as CP8-TB Kopr-Shield Joint Compound from Thomas and Betts
3. put a brass star washer on the stud.
4. Put the lug with the wire on the stud
5. Apply a brass nut torqued to the nut's specification.
6. Finish with a second brass nut which is used to lock the first nut so it doesn't loosen.
7. If you need to attach multiple lugs, intersperse them with the brass star washer and grease to maintain a metal-to-metal contact with conductive and moisture-resistant grease.

I'm not sure, but I've seen references to 9 and 13 studs. It will be a true labor of love.