When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 2003 C5 Z06 needs a new clutch at 110k miles. Main use is circuit racing, but the engine is only lightly tuned and the stock clutch has worked well - except that it has developed the "clutch pedal stuck to floor".
I've sourced a lightweight flywheel and now need an OEM spec clutch kit. Does anyone have experience with the Valeo clutch kit? Seems like very good value.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402086732312
It looks like most aftermarket stage 2-> clutch kits are non self adjusting, as is this Valeo pressure plate. Fewer parts that can fail...
Personally, I’d stay away from these cheap aftermarkets. I’d go with an Ls7 clutch which is still LUK if you’re looking for some extra grip on that hp.
Personally, I’d stay away from these cheap aftermarkets. I’d go with an Ls7 clutch which is still LUK if you’re looking for some extra grip on that hp.
The increased weight of ls7 clutch would zero out the benefits of the lightweight flywheel. Or, the total would be the same as the OEM setup, but my goal is to get the benefits of a lighter flywheel. My alternatives are the Spec stage 1 clutch or the Z06 OEM - LUK 04-173
The LS7 is a stupid replacement for anyone concerned about weight. Especially at a stock power level. You dont need any additional holding power.
I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and stock Luk clutch and pressure plate when I needed a clutch last year. It shaved 14lbs ish off the rotating assembly and still drives similar to stock on the street. I have headers and a tune making 394hp to the tire and it hold up just fine to road course use.
The LS7 is a stupid replacement for anyone concerned about weight. Especially at a stock power level. You dont need any additional holding power.
I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and stock Luk clutch and pressure plate when I needed a clutch last year. It shaved 14lbs ish off the rotating assembly and still drives similar to stock on the street. I have headers and a tune making 394hp to the tire and it hold up just fine to road course use.
what you gained in weight, you lost in quality. LuK clutches last 100k miles. Fidanza last about 40k miles. Moreover, they sell light weight flywheels for the ls7 clutch, that is, even assuming you can tell the difference. No driver can tell the difference of 14 lbs.
what you gained in weight, you lost in quality. LuK clutches last 100k miles. Fidanza last about 40k miles. Moreover, they sell light weight flywheels for the ls7 clutch, that is, even assuming you can tell the difference. No driver can tell the difference of 14 lbs.
For those of us who track the cars, 14lbs is HUGE. It transformed how the car revs and accelerates. If I didnt street drive it I would have taken another 20lbs out and gone with a small Quartermaster or something.
For those of us who track the cars, 14lbs is HUGE. It transformed how the car revs and accelerates. If I didnt street drive it I would have taken another 20lbs out and gone with a small Quartermaster or something.
i don’t know I see most drivers at the track eating breakfast burritos so the few pounds don’t matter. 😂 Nevertheless, just a blanket statement that an ls7 clutch is “stupid” is is a misconception especially with lightweight flywheels they sell. Not a speed shop in the country would recommend a Fandango clutch.
It’s not the 14 lbs. the car loses, it’s the 14 lbs. less mass the engine has to spin. Quicker throttle response — both up and down. Increased need for accurate friction zone transition. My next clutch will have a light flywheel, and I don’t really race.
It’s not the 14 lbs. the car loses, it’s the 14 lbs. less mass the engine has to spin. Quicker throttle response — both up and down. Increased need for accurate friction zone transition. My next clutch will have a light flywheel, and I don’t really race.
Which is still very nominal. If your track car comes down to the weight of your flywheel, that’s splitting hairs. Most guys at track days weigh 235 and have sound systems in their trunk. 😂 Fast reviving motor or not, it really doesn’t matter at the end of the day. That aside, my original point was I’d rather have an ls7 clutch with a lightweight flywheel than a fandago clutch.
The LS7 is a stupid replacement for anyone concerned about weight. Especially at a stock power level. You dont need any additional holding power.
I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and stock Luk clutch and pressure plate when I needed a clutch last year. It shaved 14lbs ish off the rotating assembly and still drives similar to stock on the street. I have headers and a tune making 394hp to the tire and it hold up just fine to road course use.
The PO smoked a stock LS6 clutch assembly on my car with 409 rwhp in about 10K miles of street driving and HPDE events. I had warned him that it would not last. He replaced it with the stock LS2/3/7 clutch assembly and all is much better. I have a Fidanza light weight aluminum flywheel sitting on the shelf in the garage. I should have installed it when I had to replace the hydraulic TOB due to a leak back in 2020. I am not sure why I didn't.
As a point of reference, the stock factory LS1 and LS6 clutch & flywheel assemblies weighs about 51-53 lbs, while the stock factory LS2/3/7 clutch & flywheel assembly is about 58-59 lbs. If you were to swap in the RAM aluminum flywheel with the factory LS2/3/7 clutch, than that would drop the combo back down to around 52 lbs. With an even lighter Fidanza aluminum flywheel, the combo would drop down into the 46-47 lbs range.
I used a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and stock Luk clutch and pressure plate when I needed a clutch last year. It shaved 14lbs ish off the rotating assembly and still drives similar to stock on the street. I have headers and a tune making 394hp to the tire and it hold up just fine to road course use.
Thanks! Very reassuring to know that someone else is using this configuration with good results. I've put a LUK OEM clutch and pressure plate on order with Summit Racing.
Which is still very nominal. If your track car comes down to the weight of your flywheel, that’s splitting hairs. Most guys at track days weigh 235 and have sound systems in their trunk. 😂 Fast reviving motor or not, it really doesn’t matter at the end of the day. That aside, my original point was I’d rather have an ls7 clutch with a lightweight flywheel than a fandago clutch.
I think you are really missing the point here, but thats ok.
My statement of the LS7 being a stupid replacement is still accurate for those concerned about weight.
However, your statement about staying away from aftermarket clutches is no less of a misconception. Spec, ACT, RAM, Tilton, Quartermaster, etc. all have proven results. Not all aftermarket clutches are junk, but I would agree with you to stay away from some off brands.
Lightened flywheels reduce the amount of energy produced by an engine that's spent in moving its components (parasitic loss). Since flywheels are solid, unsprung components of a vehicle's driveline, a lightweight flywheel will decrease parasitic loss at a constant rate, improving a vehicle's horsepower and torque output (measured after the flywheel) throughout it's entire rev range.
I think you are really missing the point here, but thats ok.
My statement of the LS7 being a stupid replacement is still accurate for those concerned about weight.
However, your statement about staying away from aftermarket clutches is no less of a misconception. Spec, ACT, RAM, Tilton, Quartermaster, etc. all have proven results. Not all aftermarket clutches are junk, but I would agree with you to stay away from some off brands.
I think the biggest problem with "aftermarket" clutches is that folks don't understand when they select a disc that does NOT feature either a Marcel spring or has eliminated the sprung hub design completely or that has metallic pucks for the friction material on both sides, that the clutch has basically been turned into an on-off switch - there is no slippage. Yes that type of clutch can handle much higher torque loading, but they are extremely harsh on the rest of the drivetrain and they are not really meant of daily driving on the street. So they end up getting a general bad reputation, when in fact its really the wrong application of technology for the intended usage - in other words, you bought the wrong clutch for the job. For street usage, a twin disc clutch with full face organic facing, like the factory C6 ZR1 would be a much better choice for high torque output engines. As always, YMMV.
My 2003 C5 Z06 needs a new clutch at 110k miles. Main use is circuit racing, but the engine is only lightly tuned and the stock clutch has worked well - except that it has developed the "clutch pedal stuck to floor".
I went down the "replacing the clutch due to the clutch pedal stuck to the floor" rabbit hole with my first C5. Once I removed the drive line, I discovered that the pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel were in excellent condition and did not need replacing. Since I had already purchased the parts (LUK LS1/6 replacement clutch kit, new slave and release bearing) I replaced them anyways. Knowing now what I did not know then, I should have bled the clutch's hydraulic system from the slave cylinder before embarking on replacing the clutch assembly. My current C5, a 2002 Z06 with 82K miles, exhibited the same symptoms when I purchased it. I bled the hydraulics from the slave cylinder and the clutch pedal has not been a problem for the past year.