I have a 2000 Corvette hatchback, that keeps losing the key FOB memory. I first changed batteries in all my FOBs, retrained them, but the problem persisted.

My second approach was to replace the FOBs with “reconditioned” units. My guess is that the reconditioned units were simply cleaned, and new batteries installed, and possibly, tested. Nothing changed. My third approach was to replace them with brand new, not used, ones. Still no luck.

I would use the learn FOB in the DIC to train them, and they would work for a short time, and then fail. (Just standing by the side of the car and holding both the lock and unlock buttons until the horn would chirp would get any FOB that had been recognized by the FOB learn procedure working again for a short while.) It used to last for several days, but now it is down to one or sometimes two uses, before I must repeat the procedure.

Someone suggested to me that the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver might be at fault, so I replaced that with a used unit, but nothing changed other than I had to retrain the tire pressure sensors, as well as the key FOBs, since they both go through the same unit. The tire pressure sensors continue to work flawlessly on both the original, and the replaced receivers.

The last suggestion I received was that I may have a failing body control module (BCM). That has now been replaced, and the unit reprogramed by the local Chevrolet dealer. The problem hasn’t changed. What have I missed?

I have noticed a pattern with the order the buttons are pushed and the failure. Relearn the FOB, press the lock button as many times as you desire, and the vehicle generally responds correctly. Press the unlock button, and the vehicle again responds correctly, but the lock button and the unlock now no longer work. Sometimes they will function again after the lights go out from the unlock button push, although, that’s not reliable.

 

2000 here too. Bought the latest GM fob.
Worked great for awhile. Then didn’t.
That was last year.
Just dug it out of storage. It didn’t fix itself during its 6 month slumber.

I believe if you search, there is a process to relearn a new BCM. No dealership required.

 

Unrelated question, but how did you get your car picture into your response?

 

There is a BCM relearn procedure that has to be done if you replace the BCM. The relearn procedure makes the BCM accept the keys resistor pellet as the correct one and it also establishes an electronic handshake between the BCM and PCM, the procedure is on this forum.

 

Can someone point me in the right direction to find that procedure? Thanks in advance.

 

The BCM relearn procedure is simple you simply turn the key to the On position for 11 minutes off for 30 seconds and do it three times. Make sure the battery is fully charged or has a battery charger or tender on it as the relearn may not work if battery voltage drops to low.

 

Thank you very much. Does that learn everything, or just the VATS key resister?

 

Basically the relearn procedure is the only thing you have to do when replacing a BCM.

 

I misspoke about the BCM relearn procedure, the relearn procedure will allow the car to start and run, but somebody will have to program the cars options by entering the cars VIN number using a Tech II.

 

Soemer, Did you ever get your key fob to operate correctly? I have a 2000 vert and my key fob is acting just as you described in your post.

 

IDK if this will help anyone, or not, but here's my experience. Wife bought me a new fob last Christmas. Has the newer GM superceded part#, and she got it from......GM Parts Giant? Anyway, I programmed it and all was good. Then I started reading a bit more on these fobs. It seems that, in my case, even though the fob has the latest part# on the back, like the OEM fob, it is NOT a genuine GM part. When I was done driving the car that day, I hung my keys and fob on a key organizer in the kitchen. The next morning I went out to the car, and nothing worked!!! I reprogrammed it, and it was fine. Ever since then I have left the keys in the garage not far from the car. It has never lost the program again. I've also noticed if we take it to a car show, or movie, something where we will return to the car within 2-3 hours, it is fine. Only when I have the keys away from the car for 10-12 hours has it lost its programming.

 

Not really. After the BCM replacement, I did get it to sort of work. I am able to unlock the car as long as the parking lights aren't on from an unlock command. If I wait until after they go out, the buttons work again. I have no idea what is going on, and I even tried a dealer, and they were unable to get any better results. They told me to live with it, since it does respond if you wait for the parking lights to go out. Right now, that's what I am doing.

I own the paper manual set, and the only clue that I found in there that I hadn't already completed was that if the key FOB hasn't communicated with the vehicle in long period of time, it may lose it's connection. I used to drive the car every day to work, so that may have satisfied that requirement. Now that I am retired, it only goes out for shows, and vacation trips. My solution to that has been to press the unlock button on all three of my FOBs every day. So far, except for the problem of an unlock command-parking light problem, everything seems to be working.

 

I have both FOBs and they definitely are different. Open them up to change batteries, and you can see a vast difference. The boards in the newer units have changed completely. They are supposed to do the same thing, but the board layout doesn't look anything alike.