When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2003, 92k miles. A/T
I learned a day or so ago by examining my balancer with my bore scope that it is indeed cracking. Heck, now i am afraid to drive it, so parts and a couple tools have been ordered and this afternoon I will start tearing it down. I have the detailed write up by scottlunger and all comments ans suggestions associated with that thread. I do have a couple questions.
By using the summit balancer "wrench" I will not have to drop exhaust and remove starter, is that correct?
Next, in one comment, a fellow had his radiator out and did not have to lower the "carriage". Since I need to change the coolant anyway, I will be removing the radiator. Does the sway bar still have to come off?
I will be doing mine on a quick jack.
You don't have to remove the exhaust to move the starter out of the way for the flywheel holding tool. The exhaust does have to come off to replace the starter.
I moved the steering rack to the passenger side of the car.
The hardest part of the job is removing the power steering lines from the rack.
You do not have to lower the engine cradle to remove the steering rack.
True...but it can help wrangle that sucker out without twisting and contorting lol
I don't know why you would need to touch the exhaust lol Just impact the bolt off. If you dont have an impact...buy one. Also buy the balancer removal tool [OEM tools has a trick one] but the 3 insert rod one will get er done as well]. Dont skimp on the seal...now would be an opportune time to also re-seal timing cover, cam plate, and inspect the timing chain and gear. The rack will be the longest part of the job...but after that...press off...press on...reasemble...roll away clean.
I to have to attack this job soon. It's not bad, but just plan a weekend and replace as much "while your in there" as you can. Taking the rack out is the pain in the dick part.
2003, 92k miles. A/T
I learned a day or so ago by examining my balancer with my bore scope that it is indeed cracking. Heck, now i am afraid to drive it, so parts and a couple tools have been ordered and this afternoon I will start tearing it down. I have the detailed write up by scottlunger and all comments ans suggestions associated with that thread. I do have a couple questions.
By using the summit balancer "wrench" I will not have to drop exhaust and remove starter, is that correct?
Next, in one comment, a fellow had his radiator out and did not have to lower the "carriage". Since I need to change the coolant anyway, I will be removing the radiator. Does the sway bar still have to come off?
I will be doing mine on a quick jack.
Don't sweat changing the balancer. It just takes a bit of time getting to it. I recommend getting a turkey baster to suck all the power steering fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting it from the rack. IMHO, and I've had my balancer off and on several times for cam changes, get yourself an air or electric impact capable of around 350lb/ft of torque. Also buy an ARP balancer bolt. Remove the OEM TTY bolt, and pitch it. The impact and ARP bolt will eliminate the torquing, buying tools that hold the crank from turning, and torquing to angle. The ARP bolt will never need replacing, either. My opinion, YMMV.
Last edited by grinder11; May 6, 2023 at 12:02 PM.
What balancer are you installing? Another factory one of a summit SFI one? A trick I like to use after snapping NUMEROUS balancers install tools is to heat the balancer to about 200 - 225 degrees in the oven. Make sure babe doesnt have any cooking to do...pop that balancer in the oven...heat at like 300 degrees...an IR temp gun will help you know when its ready checking from time to time. After the ovens warmed up...I usually let it set for 10 mins then check the temp and continue checking every 10 mins until its hot enough. After that...oven mitts please...move quickly to not let it cool down too much...and slide her on the crank snout. Its not going to go completely on...DUHHHHH...but it will be SIGNIFICANTLY easier to pull on with the installer tool effort wise. its also MUCH less stress on the crank threads which is what you want. Since I've used this method...I havent snapped a balancer install tool since . A little bit of motor oil on the sliding surfaces [as well as the seal] will keep everything involved in the transaction happy.