need rear wheel bearings
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
need rear wheel bearings
My 2001 Z06 has this cyclical vibration at triple digits since I bought it a year ago. Cycle is about 1HZ, louder then quieter. Distracting and a bit unsettling but does not seem to effect stability.
I replaced the wheel bearings a few months back. There are all sorts of cheap parts out there which I wouldn't use on a Yugo. AC Delco Gold were reasonably priced at the time. I called my local NAPA because I like supporting local brick and mortar and they got me SKF bearings for nearly $200/ea (which was at the high end). I figured SKF was a safe bet. I started my career as a machinist in 1983 and SKF was a respected supplier back then. They're still headquartered in Sweden so I was hoping for European quality manufacture.
Today I start the job of replacing the rear brakes and shocks and both bearings are shot, after a few thousand miles. Hopefully NAPA will give me my money back.
In the meantime I have the option of reinstalling the bearings I took out or buying new ones (which I'd rather do) but I have no idea who makes a wheel bearing that won't self destruct as well.
Who has replaced replaced rear wheel bearings in recent history and not had them self destruct?
Thanks in advance.
I replaced the wheel bearings a few months back. There are all sorts of cheap parts out there which I wouldn't use on a Yugo. AC Delco Gold were reasonably priced at the time. I called my local NAPA because I like supporting local brick and mortar and they got me SKF bearings for nearly $200/ea (which was at the high end). I figured SKF was a safe bet. I started my career as a machinist in 1983 and SKF was a respected supplier back then. They're still headquartered in Sweden so I was hoping for European quality manufacture.
Today I start the job of replacing the rear brakes and shocks and both bearings are shot, after a few thousand miles. Hopefully NAPA will give me my money back.
In the meantime I have the option of reinstalling the bearings I took out or buying new ones (which I'd rather do) but I have no idea who makes a wheel bearing that won't self destruct as well.
Who has replaced replaced rear wheel bearings in recent history and not had them self destruct?
Thanks in advance.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
Turns out the bearings did not fail.
I used new axle nuts when I installed the SKF bearings.
Either I did not torque them properly or they backed off (which seems unlikely).
It appears then that the bearings are held together (and proper preload maintained) by the axle and nut. I assume they are opposed tapered roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings.
Once I tightened the axle nuts to 120 ft/lbs the play went away.
Got the shocks (Koni Sports) and brakes (Wilwood DPC56) on and have driven it 60 miles or so, and it feels as though I did not destroy the bearings.
I just wanted to clarify that the SKF bearings are okay and that it was apparently my f@#$-up. Don't want to tarnish SKF reputation, we all need accurate information to base our decisions on.
Thanks to those that responded. I certainly trust Timken bearings, another of the heavyweights of bearing manufacturers.
I used new axle nuts when I installed the SKF bearings.
Either I did not torque them properly or they backed off (which seems unlikely).
It appears then that the bearings are held together (and proper preload maintained) by the axle and nut. I assume they are opposed tapered roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings.
Once I tightened the axle nuts to 120 ft/lbs the play went away.
Got the shocks (Koni Sports) and brakes (Wilwood DPC56) on and have driven it 60 miles or so, and it feels as though I did not destroy the bearings.
I just wanted to clarify that the SKF bearings are okay and that it was apparently my f@#$-up. Don't want to tarnish SKF reputation, we all need accurate information to base our decisions on.
Thanks to those that responded. I certainly trust Timken bearings, another of the heavyweights of bearing manufacturers.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 940
From: Orlando Florida
Very helpful to update your thread! I, for one, would never have considered that axle nut torque would be part of the rear axle bearing clearance and pre-load. It makes perfect sense, of course, but I would have assumed that the bearing would be made with a fixed clearance/pre-load. Now I know better.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
Very helpful to update your thread! I, for one, would never have considered that axle nut torque would be part of the rear axle bearing clearance and pre-load. It makes perfect sense, of course, but I would have assumed that the bearing would be made with a fixed clearance/pre-load. Now I know better.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
No, the vibration is still there. It's frustrating. Rebalanced the tires already. Road force balancing has been suggested but it seems more like the prop shaft or the half shafts.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 275
Likes: 39
I was thinking the same thing about the prop shaft or halfs, but for me its speed based and the prop shaft spins at engine rpm so I ruled that out. Because any gear i'm in doing 60mph vibe is the same.
My vibration "comes and goes" as in sometimes It doesn't happen. Right at 60mph is where the magnitude is greatest, as speed increases the frequency also increase but the magnitude is slightly less.
I feel it mostly in the seat, but sometimes i feel it in the shifter.....
My vibration "comes and goes" as in sometimes It doesn't happen. Right at 60mph is where the magnitude is greatest, as speed increases the frequency also increase but the magnitude is slightly less.
I feel it mostly in the seat, but sometimes i feel it in the shifter.....
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 243
Likes: 93
From: Ashburn, VA
Turns out the bearings did not fail.
I used new axle nuts when I installed the SKF bearings.
Either I did not torque them properly or they backed off (which seems unlikely).
It appears then that the bearings are held together (and proper preload maintained) by the axle and nut. I assume they are opposed tapered roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings.
Once I tightened the axle nuts to 120 ft/lbs the play went away.
Got the shocks (Koni Sports) and brakes (Wilwood DPC56) on and have driven it 60 miles or so, and it feels as though I did not destroy the bearings.
I just wanted to clarify that the SKF bearings are okay and that it was apparently my f@#$-up. Don't want to tarnish SKF reputation, we all need accurate information to base our decisions on.
Thanks to those that responded. I certainly trust Timken bearings, another of the heavyweights of bearing manufacturers.
I used new axle nuts when I installed the SKF bearings.
Either I did not torque them properly or they backed off (which seems unlikely).
It appears then that the bearings are held together (and proper preload maintained) by the axle and nut. I assume they are opposed tapered roller bearings or angular contact ball bearings.
Once I tightened the axle nuts to 120 ft/lbs the play went away.
Got the shocks (Koni Sports) and brakes (Wilwood DPC56) on and have driven it 60 miles or so, and it feels as though I did not destroy the bearings.
I just wanted to clarify that the SKF bearings are okay and that it was apparently my f@#$-up. Don't want to tarnish SKF reputation, we all need accurate information to base our decisions on.
Thanks to those that responded. I certainly trust Timken bearings, another of the heavyweights of bearing manufacturers.
Glad it worked out for ya on the cheap end,
Joe
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
Mine gets worse with speed but the fact that the prop shaft spins at engine speed does not rule it out as it feels like a resonance in my car.
Usually the prop shaft is not spinning at 4200 RPM (at 160 MPH) for more than a second or 2, it is accelerating or decelarating past that speed. Only time my engine (prop shaft) is spinning at a constant higher RPM long enough to let a resonance develop is in that scenario. At lower speeds when I'm spinning the engine through that RPM, I'm generally too focused on what's in front of me what with 600 peak wheel HP and all.
Or it's the Tupperware construction of the car, maybe.
My supercharged G37X is smooth as glass at 160. It's disappointing that my mighty Z06 is not at least as good.
Usually the prop shaft is not spinning at 4200 RPM (at 160 MPH) for more than a second or 2, it is accelerating or decelarating past that speed. Only time my engine (prop shaft) is spinning at a constant higher RPM long enough to let a resonance develop is in that scenario. At lower speeds when I'm spinning the engine through that RPM, I'm generally too focused on what's in front of me what with 600 peak wheel HP and all.
Or it's the Tupperware construction of the car, maybe.
My supercharged G37X is smooth as glass at 160. It's disappointing that my mighty Z06 is not at least as good.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 27
From: Malvern, PA
I believe the original torque spec was 120 fl lbs then GM revised to 140 ft lbs for this reason [nuts walking back]. I recently did all 4 of mine and torqued the rears to 130 lbs [splitting difference] and marked the nut with white out. Still under 500 miles, but will check the nut at 500 to see if she's "moved". Always a good idea to check those type of axle nuts after a few hundred miles if you dont stake em.
Glad it worked out for ya on the cheap end,
Joe
Glad it worked out for ya on the cheap end,
Joe
I'll check them in a week or 2. The nut can definitely handle140 ft/lbs so I'll go with that when I check them.
Thanks again.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 243
Likes: 93
From: Ashburn, VA
Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure I tightened them originally and felt like an idiot when I thought on Sunday that I hadn't. Haven't researched it so I assumed they didn't spontaneously loosen. Thought about loctiting them this time but decided against it.
I'll check them in a week or 2. The nut can definitely handle140 ft/lbs so I'll go with that when I check them.
Thanks again.
I'll check them in a week or 2. The nut can definitely handle140 ft/lbs so I'll go with that when I check them.
Thanks again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
So I've got news for you guys...whether it's good or bad, that's up to you lol. The intermittent, cyclical/rolling vibration at highway speeds is a pretty common phenomenon that a lot of C5 owners experience. I've come across a lot of posts over the last few years and most people can't seem to figure it out or resolve it. I experience it from time to time as well. It's never enough to cause any issues and it's really not even noticeable to anyone but me, but the little things drive me crazy. As chance would have it, I've replaced pretty much everything that I would think could cause it (not just in at attempt to ditch the vibration) and it still happens....
- Harmonic balancer
- Motor mounts
- Clutch
- Rebuilt torque tube
- Rear diff re-geared
- All ball joints, hubs, and tie rod ends
- Several different sets of wheels/tires
My new set of wheels/tire did get road force balanced...so we'll see within a month or so if that's the magic bullet...as I swear it never happened when I was running OEM C5Z wheels with R888s.
Only thing left after that is my 55k mile transmission and I have no need to replace that yet LOL
- Harmonic balancer
- Motor mounts
- Clutch
- Rebuilt torque tube
- Rear diff re-geared
- All ball joints, hubs, and tie rod ends
- Several different sets of wheels/tires
My new set of wheels/tire did get road force balanced...so we'll see within a month or so if that's the magic bullet...as I swear it never happened when I was running OEM C5Z wheels with R888s.
Only thing left after that is my 55k mile transmission and I have no need to replace that yet LOL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
I'm going to say it's not the tires. I've had Toyo R888, Hankook Ventus V12 Evo, Mickey Thompson Street SS, and my new set is Toyo R888R. I only have 30 miles on these and am in desperate need of an alignment though, so no real results are going to be seen very soon haha.
Those Firestones have pretty good reviews regardless of price...I considered them this time around as well, but the sizes didn't work out.
Those Firestones have pretty good reviews regardless of price...I considered them this time around as well, but the sizes didn't work out.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 243
Likes: 93
From: Ashburn, VA
So I've got news for you guys...whether it's good or bad, that's up to you lol. The intermittent, cyclical/rolling vibration at highway speeds is a pretty common phenomenon that a lot of C5 owners experience. I've come across a lot of posts over the last few years and most people can't seem to figure it out or resolve it. I experience it from time to time as well. It's never enough to cause any issues and it's really not even noticeable to anyone but me, but the little things drive me crazy. As chance would have it, I've replaced pretty much everything that I would think could cause it (not just in at attempt to ditch the vibration) and it still happens....
- Harmonic balancer
- Motor mounts
- Clutch
- Rebuilt torque tube
- Rear diff re-geared
- All ball joints, hubs, and tie rod ends
- Several different sets of wheels/tires
My new set of wheels/tire did get road force balanced...so we'll see within a month or so if that's the magic bullet...as I swear it never happened when I was running OEM C5Z wheels with R888s.
Only thing left after that is my 55k mile transmission and I have no need to replace that yet LOL
- Harmonic balancer
- Motor mounts
- Clutch
- Rebuilt torque tube
- Rear diff re-geared
- All ball joints, hubs, and tie rod ends
- Several different sets of wheels/tires
My new set of wheels/tire did get road force balanced...so we'll see within a month or so if that's the magic bullet...as I swear it never happened when I was running OEM C5Z wheels with R888s.
Only thing left after that is my 55k mile transmission and I have no need to replace that yet LOL
You've done everything else.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Have you considered it could be the Torque Tube Rubber Couplers? The newer 12mm Bolt Couplers are LESS prone to failure but they still do fail. They Crack and rot and shred apart. If you do have to replace them. MAKE SURE that you get the true GM Replacements. Others like Dorman are well known to premature fail! The only way to inspect them and find out if they are good or bad is to remove and disassemble the TT.
As heggsc5 detailed, You can easily check the Engine mounts and Dampener. I would also check the Differential Mount as it can get weak and shift around under Acceleration & down shifting. I Power brake my car and have someone watch the engine mounts, diff mound and suspension for abnormal flex/movement.
BC
As heggsc5 detailed, You can easily check the Engine mounts and Dampener. I would also check the Differential Mount as it can get weak and shift around under Acceleration & down shifting. I Power brake my car and have someone watch the engine mounts, diff mound and suspension for abnormal flex/movement.
BC