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I found a thread on this forum of the previous owner so I know what modifications it has. However, I am concerned about the ticking sound from the engine. I can hear the exhaust manifolds buzzing, I can also hear the work of the changed injectors, but my mechanic believes that the sound is made by lifters. He thinks this is normal after changing to a sport camshaft and double valve springs. The car has already done 12,000 miles since the modification. I have done 6,000 miles with this car.
I don't know how long the push rods are. The previous owner was making modifications to the new era performance in NYC in 2015
Welp...measure the pushrods then
I never understand those who buy modified rides and expect them to sound like Nissan Versa's lol While not a super aggressive cam, the stock lift on an LS1 cam was .479/.467 and your cam is now .600/.611 lift. If your question is whether or not the work was done right or if the rockers are loose and out of adjustment...its very simple to check and verify. But as others have said...sounds about normal. The one thing MODIFIED owners need to understand is...you will have to be TWICE as vigilant monitoring noises and gauges as the stock'ers will be. That's part of being modified...always has been...always will be.
You put 6,000 miles on the car...if it aint down on power...Turn up the stereo...make more exhaust noises...and send that ****
My 99 made similar noises with headers, I have been told that it is normal and nothing to worry about. Regularly change your oil with Amsoi/M1 or equivalent full synthetic 5W30 (for me twice per year) and enjoy!
I posted on your YouTube channel as well. Just last week, I had the following upgrades made to my car:
AFR 215 heads
BTR Stage 3 cam with dual coil springs, titanium retainers, and hardened pushrods
1.7 BTR trunions
Melling high volume oil pump
LS2 dual roller timing kit
LS3 head gaskets
My car is making very similar sounds. I don't remember it doing that while it was on the dyno getting the crap kicked out of it. However, on the way home (about a 15 mile leisurely drive), it started to make these sounds. At first, I thought it was clutch chatter, as I had a new Exedy stage 1 clutch put in at the same time. But today I realize it is coming mostly from bank 2 and probably about number 6. I have put about 120 miles on it, and it is running fine, just annoying, especially in the cabin at about 1800-2000 RPM in 3rd and 4th gear. I have a convertible, so it is quite a distraction for the awesome cam sounds and exhaust.
I have read from others here that they switched from the GM recommended 5-30W Mobil 1 to 10-40W to help. I don't know if this works, but I am planning on taking the car back to the shop next week to have them check it out,
If you take off the valve covers to check push rod length, take a good look at those Comp rocker arms. There is been reports of premature trunnion wear when used on higher lift cams like your .600/.611 your running plus you have higher spring rates with those dual springs. Google it, its a known issue on these LS engines. Best to look before there is metal going through your engine. Get a magnetic drain plug for your oil. I like these as they have super strong magnets: https://goldplug.com/resources/ https://goldplug.com/shop/ap04/
I called BTR on Monday and spoke with them about these sounds. They indicated the pushrods are likely 25 or 50 thousands too short, thus opening the valve late and closing it early. It also more than likely indicates vertical play between the pushrod and rocker itself. They said the 1.7 rocker they design is engineered to perform like an LS7 rocker. LS7's don't tick when they run. The noise is caused by the pushrod not staying in contact with the rocker throughout the entire revolution, so when the two impact each other when the lobe is high enough to make the contact, it causes the tick.
It has nothing to do with being a daily driver, it has everything to do with the valve train being right.
With a normal lifter you need 1/2 to 1 & 1/2 turns on the rocker arm bolt from the zero lash point. you need the plunger in the lifter slightly compressed, not loose and not bottomed out. The check valving inside the lifter will make it happy once there is oil supplied when running. Some are short travel like a Johnson lifter. You never mentioned which lifter you are running. This is a great explanation video:
Everything in the car is as it should be. There are no problems and the length is ok. This is its nature with modifications
So you measured the lengths at zero lash, and all was well?
I had my shop measure mine yesterday, and they were off a hundred thousandths. Ordered some 7.5 pushrods today. Hope to lose my sewing machine racket when it is over.
So you measured the lengths at zero lash, and all was well?
I had my shop measure mine yesterday, and they were off a hundred thousandths. Ordered some 7.5 pushrods today. Hope to lose my sewing machine racket when it is over.
If you have an issue obtaining the PRs, PM me. I have some Smith Bros. 7.5s.....