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I have learned about the ground on the passenger side near seat belt. Does anyone know how to access it. I think this is why my Trunk, gas and Storage latch are not working.
Unless your car was FLOODED at one time, those interior grounds are pretty secure and seldom have issues. Have you found the FUSE for all those things and actually read the voltage to a proper chassis ground?? That would be my first check.
I would pull the bulkhead carpet back, pull the connector for the actuator and actually measure power and ground from the actuator harness connector pins. You can also measure the actuator coil resistance on the actuator connector. Much easier than rippen interior plastic apart..
OK,,, That video is just OK. Its not fully factual, There are actually 12 main grounding points. Some more details on GROUND POINT NUMBERING and location can be found in one of the C5 STICKEY POST. Its called Important Electrical Information (long) Yes, I posted it It better explains where each Chassis ground point is, its number and explains what a Ground SPLICE PACK IS.
NOTE! G-402 is only used on 97 to Mid year 98 C5. The Rear Mounted EBTCM and RTD Module ground there. After mid year 98, that module was moved forward on the drivers side just aft of the radiator and is grounded at G-101. The STUD is still there on all the later C5 but its NOT USED. It normally has a rubber cap on it from the factory. Good stud for custom electronics grounds!
He failed to mention the main battery ground wire on the passengers side of the block G-105 above the starter AND the ground wire for the coils G-107 on the back of the drivers cylinder head. There are actually two black/white striped wires that terminate into one ground lug and that gets bolted to the head.
If you examine G-101 & G-102 (behind/aft of the drivers and Passengers headlight) you will see a TAB that bolts to the stud on the frame rail. The connection between that tab and the chassis can get ugly. The Black Plastic connector that all the little ground wires terminate into is a KEY issue when it comes to corrosion. YOU MUST disassemble that black connector and clean all the green crud off the pins (male and female) Its detailed in the post that I referenced. There are OTHER chassis ground points that have the same plastic connector body. G-101, 102, 201, 202, 301, 302
NOTE-1 Chassis ground G-104/108 (listed both ways depending on year C5) is the KEY Battery to Chassis Ground point. If that ground point is compromised, battery voltage for the entire car can be affected.
NOTE-2 PM Me for more ground info/
NOTE-3 The late 98 & all other C5 EBTCM Ground is under G-101 Connector TAB as a separate eyelet and needs to be spotless as well.
NOTE-4 Just spraying cleaner on ground points will not work. Remove, disassemble scrub and reassemble .
NOTE-5 There are something Called SPLICE PACKS all over the vehicle. They collect the ground wires from the electrical components in a section of the car and use ONE larger wire to carry the ground to one of the main Chassis Ground points. " Example fog lights, DTRL Blinkers ect all ground in a splice pack and the splice pack main wire goes to G-101." That splice pack is located under the bumper facia just below the bumper header bar center of bumper header bar.
Hey Bill, Thanks for the reply. Here's my original post left the other day. All 3 items that are not working were working a day earlier. Bob
Here's the problem. All of a sudden, the Convertible hatch release, the Fuel door and trunk will not open. I can manually open the Gas Door and convertible Latch. There is NO cable to open the trunk. All he fuses and relays are good. I did read that there is a ground strap under the passenger door seat belt but I cant get to it. That ground has all the elements in common (Trunk Release, Fuel Door and Hatch. I'm stumped on how to fix this. One other caveat is that the Trunk courtesy lights do not go out, and the Power Antenna stays up.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..... Thanks in Advance..... Born in 53.
1) Brand New battery 700 CCA 110 CR
2) wheres the Bulkhead.... but there are multiple problems pointing towards common ground. Here's my original Post.:
Here's the problem. All of a sudden, the Convertible hatch release, the Fuel door and trunk will not open. I can manually open the Gas Door and convertible Latch. There is NO cable to open the trunk. All he fuses and relays are good. I did read that there is a ground strap under the passenger door seat belt but I cant get to it. That ground has all the elements in common (Trunk Release, Fuel Door and Hatch. I'm stumped on how to fix this. One other caveat is that the Trunk courtesy lights do not go out, and the Power Antenna stays up.. Any help would be greatly appreciated..... Thanks in Advance..... Born in 53.
Yes..... I did watch. I just need to know hot to get to it. LOL
Did you remove the trim panel as mentioned in the video ??…the panels are just clipped in…best to get yourself a trim removal tool at your favorite parts store.
Here is the schematic of the fuel door and related ground point G302 with photoes of the ground point and connected splice point located behind passer seatbelt
You don´t mention the year of your car , but this drawing is for the 2000
Thanks to All. The problem was the Ground Strap on the passenger side, under the plastic trim. The wires were corroded looking. I wriggled the main ground wire plugged into the block and everything worked again. I also got the trunk open (beforehand) with hidden cable. Only one latch pull which was buried under mat under the 8 Track player.
Now i will clean that ground block and spray as video recommends.
Thanks to All. The problem was the Ground Strap on the passenger side, under the plastic trim. The wires were corroded looking. I wriggled the main ground wire plugged into the block and everything worked again. I also got the trunk open (beforehand) with hidden cable. Only one latch pull witch was buried under mat under the 8 Track player.
Now i will clean that ground block and spray as video recommends.
Thanks again all you Corvette Gurus
Super !!!!…I would use DeOxit spray on the splice pack terminals…you can get a terminal cleaning kit…as these cars get older you’ll need it !!…if the wires and not the splice pack looked bad I would cut out the wiring back to clean copper and join them all together with a soldered connection and connect it to ground. That area normally isn’t prone to corrosion so maybe see if there is possibly a water leak there.
Ground access
