When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, I cannot seem to find a solution here. The AC light turns on then off. This was working just fine the last time I drove it, about 2 weeks ago. The compressor doesn't even try to turn on because the AC light turns off. I cannot tell if it is low on refrigerant if the system never turns on. I put a gauge on the port by the battery and read nothing but of course the system wasn't running. It seems to me like a sensor is bad. The external temp gauge in the car reads 85 degrees which is correct to the outside temperature so that does not seem like the problem. Any ideas?????
If the car is not running and it is 85 degrees outside you should see about 85 psi static pressure in the AC system if you have refrigerant in it…if you have a gauge on the system and reading zero you have no refrigerant in the system…you most likely have a leak so I would take your car to your local AC shop and let them fix it…not a DIY job for most.
So you are saying if I put a gauge on the port by the battery (which I believe is low pressure) I should see a reading?
Update: I hooked up the gauge to this port and turned the car on and nothing on the gauge, but then of course nothing on the AC side is running. Maybe there should always be some pressure here regardless????? Not sure.
Last edited by scottrappley; Jul 4, 2023 at 03:46 PM.
Yes, if you have refrigerant in the system then you will read pressure as C5Diag said. Over time a cars refrigerant will escape but there can also be a leak. You can try using a can of 134a refrigerant that comes with a gauge and charge it.
So you are saying if I put a gauge on the port by the battery (which I believe is low pressure) I should see a reading?
Update: I hooked up the gauge to this port and turned the car on and nothing on the gauge, but then of course nothing on the AC side is running. Maybe there should always be some pressure here regardless????? Not sure.
Ok. Interesting, I am learning something. I will go buy a can of R134 A, and see what happens. How many ounces will I need though? I see cans of 12 ounces then some at 22.
Ok. Interesting, I am learning something. I will go buy a can of R134 A, and see what happens. How many ounces will I need though? I see cans of 12 ounces then some at 22.
If you have no refrigerant you have a LEAK so the first thing that needs to be done is find the leak, evacuate the system to make sure you fixed the leak and then charge the system…you are only wasting your money charging a system that has a leak…take it to a professional !!
Thanks to everyone for the help. I learned something today.
Update. I added a can of stop leak and a 12 ounce can of refrigerant and boom, the AC started working. I understand this is a band aid probably but it does get me by for now. Thanks for the help.
Thanks to everyone for the help. I learned something today.
Update. I added a can of stop leak and a 12 ounce can of refrigerant and boom, the AC started working. I understand this is a band aid probably but it does get me by for now. Thanks for the help.
If you must try a sealant, the best stuff I've used is made by Blue Devil. Its NOT cheap-$30+ per can last time I used it. If that doesnt work, as C5 Diag said, take it to a pro. You wont plug up the system using 1 can. Use 4 or 5 from 2 or 3 manufacturers, not a good idea, and you'll probably plug up the condenser and orifice tube. Try Blue Devil. They even state on the can that if your system wont hold a charge for 2 weeks, the leak is too large for their sealant to work. Which will save you the $30 if you're not holding a two week charge!!! Hope this helps......
This is, by all means the bestest option. A seasoned pro can tell you in hour or so what's wrong and what it will take to make it right, sometimes for very reasonable money -- it could be nothing more than a bad Schrader valve leaking. Even if the diagnosis is fairly bad -- say you need a new compressor and condenser, and it's going to be $1500 -- you can decide whether you have the skill set necessary to change those parts yourself and either have the shop flush and fill or do so you yourself.
Just be aware that the path to doing it yourself is yet another tool and gadget money pit: manifold gage set, vacuum pump, etc.
This is, by all means the bestest option. A seasoned pro can tell you in hour or so what's wrong and what it will take to make it right, sometimes for very reasonable money -- it could be nothing more than a bad Schrader valve leaking. Even if the diagnosis is fairly bad -- say you need a new compressor and condenser, and it's going to be $1500 -- you can decide whether you have the skill set necessary to change those parts yourself and either have the shop flush and fill or do so you yourself.
Just be aware that the path to doing it yourself is yet another tool and gadget money pit: manifold gage set, vacuum pump, etc.
Wish mine was $1,500! I need a new evaporator. But....while they're in there, I'll get a new heater core, new actuators, 2 new vents, lights in the dash replaced, yada, yada. Altogether about another $2,800-$3,000!!! This is on top of already buying a new compressor, condenser, accumulator, yada, yada, waaaaahhh!!!