Clutch sticking only when engaged from a stop
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 138
From: Dallas TX
Clutch sticking only when engaged from a stop
Hello,
I have read all the threads on sticking clutches, which are centric to high RPM shifting/driving the car hard. I have a unique issue I was wondering if anyone else has had. I had a C5 Z with 30k miles, stock except for CAI and possibly a dyno tune. I do not race the car but i will bang off some 1-2 shifts do some spirited driving here and there. The clutch performs flawlessly during the spirited driving (maybe if I tracked it, it wouldn't).
My clutch will stick to the floor 7/10 times engaging from a stop light and getting the car moving forward, it will shifts through all gears fine). Example, if i put the car in 1st gear at a light and keep my foot down on the clutch then return back to nuetral and take my foot off the clutch it will stick to the floor.
it will stick 10/10 times after putting the car in reverse and moving (i.e. back out of a parking spot, pick the clutch up with my toe to put it in first gear and move forward).
I'm tempted to just have the full assembly replaced with remote bleeder and call it a day
I have read all the threads on sticking clutches, which are centric to high RPM shifting/driving the car hard. I have a unique issue I was wondering if anyone else has had. I had a C5 Z with 30k miles, stock except for CAI and possibly a dyno tune. I do not race the car but i will bang off some 1-2 shifts do some spirited driving here and there. The clutch performs flawlessly during the spirited driving (maybe if I tracked it, it wouldn't).
My clutch will stick to the floor 7/10 times engaging from a stop light and getting the car moving forward, it will shifts through all gears fine). Example, if i put the car in 1st gear at a light and keep my foot down on the clutch then return back to nuetral and take my foot off the clutch it will stick to the floor.
it will stick 10/10 times after putting the car in reverse and moving (i.e. back out of a parking spot, pick the clutch up with my toe to put it in first gear and move forward).
I'm tempted to just have the full assembly replaced with remote bleeder and call it a day
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,677
Likes: 1,397
From: Orange County, CA
Speaking of remote bleeder, have you attempted to exchange the fluid at all? With the stock bleeder screw it might be a bit messy but could very well be worthwhile.
By the way, I didn't see a question here
guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
By the way, I didn't see a question here
guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 138
From: Dallas TX
Speaking of remote bleeder, have you attempted to exchange the fluid at all? With the stock bleeder screw it might be a bit messy but could very well be worthwhile.
By the way, I didn't see a question here guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
By the way, I didn't see a question here
guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 138
From: Dallas TX
Speaking of remote bleeder, have you attempted to exchange the fluid at all? With the stock bleeder screw it might be a bit messy but could very well be worthwhile.
By the way, I didn't see a question here guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
By the way, I didn't see a question here
guessing you want us to affirm your choice to replace everything. There is an intermediate option of installing a Katech remote bleeder, which doesn't require full drivetrain removal. And if fresh fluid doesn't do it I'd suggest replacement of the clutch master cylinder. Both of these are far cheaper and easier than clutch & slave cylinder replacement.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,677
Likes: 1,397
From: Orange County, CA
Have you noticed if there's a difference in the behavior when the engine is cold vs hot?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 138
From: Dallas TX
nothing super noticeable, i'd say it's probably worse when hot...speculating.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,677
Likes: 1,397
From: Orange County, CA
It is a weird issue no doubt.
In your described scenario there is pressure against the master cylinder, and pressure is maintained otherwise the clutch would start to grab and the car would roll forward (since it's in 1st).
So what would cause the clutch pedal/master rod to stick despite the pressure pushing away from that? These are my theories/ideas:
In your described scenario there is pressure against the master cylinder, and pressure is maintained otherwise the clutch would start to grab and the car would roll forward (since it's in 1st).
So what would cause the clutch pedal/master rod to stick despite the pressure pushing away from that? These are my theories/ideas:
- gunked up master cylinder or slave cylinder, perhaps a fluid flush would help
- something on the clutch pedal is binding
- the clutch pedal over-center spring is getting stuck somehow
- you can try removing it as part of the diagnosis process. Note that some people prefer the clutch pedal feel without the spring anyways.
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 257
Likes: 75
Hello,
I have read all the threads on sticking clutches, which are centric to high RPM shifting/driving the car hard. I have a unique issue I was wondering if anyone else has had. I had a C5 Z with 30k miles, stock except for CAI and possibly a dyno tune. I do not race the car but i will bang off some 1-2 shifts do some spirited driving here and there. The clutch performs flawlessly during the spirited driving (maybe if I tracked it, it wouldn't).
My clutch will stick to the floor 7/10 times engaging from a stop light and getting the car moving forward, it will shifts through all gears fine). Example, if i put the car in 1st gear at a light and keep my foot down on the clutch then return back to nuetral and take my foot off the clutch it will stick to the floor.
it will stick 10/10 times after putting the car in reverse and moving (i.e. back out of a parking spot, pick the clutch up with my toe to put it in first gear and move forward).
I'm tempted to just have the full assembly replaced with remote bleeder and call it a day
I have read all the threads on sticking clutches, which are centric to high RPM shifting/driving the car hard. I have a unique issue I was wondering if anyone else has had. I had a C5 Z with 30k miles, stock except for CAI and possibly a dyno tune. I do not race the car but i will bang off some 1-2 shifts do some spirited driving here and there. The clutch performs flawlessly during the spirited driving (maybe if I tracked it, it wouldn't).
My clutch will stick to the floor 7/10 times engaging from a stop light and getting the car moving forward, it will shifts through all gears fine). Example, if i put the car in 1st gear at a light and keep my foot down on the clutch then return back to nuetral and take my foot off the clutch it will stick to the floor.
it will stick 10/10 times after putting the car in reverse and moving (i.e. back out of a parking spot, pick the clutch up with my toe to put it in first gear and move forward).
I'm tempted to just have the full assembly replaced with remote bleeder and call it a day
When they pulled the slave out, it was full of gunk. It's possible it could have been flushed and bled, and maybe it would have come back. But once you have made the effort or paid the labor to get to it, you may as well spend a few hundred dollars on clutch parts to just make it all new again.
Hope that helps.
-D
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 459
Likes: 138
From: Dallas TX
This happened to me just last month. It got worse when the car was hot. I had 89K miles on my '99. It ended up being the slave cylinder. Because the car had to come apart to get to it, I just had them upgrade the whole thing even though my clutch plate had plenty of life left in it. I went with an Exedy stage 1 clutch, a new GM OEM slave, and the Tick master.
When they pulled the slave out, it was full of gunk. It's possible it could have been flushed and bled, and maybe it would have come back. But once you have made the effort or paid the labor to get to it, you may as well spend a few hundred dollars on clutch parts to just make it all new again.
Hope that helps.
-D
When they pulled the slave out, it was full of gunk. It's possible it could have been flushed and bled, and maybe it would have come back. But once you have made the effort or paid the labor to get to it, you may as well spend a few hundred dollars on clutch parts to just make it all new again.
Hope that helps.
-D
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 183
Likes: 111
From: Highland Village, TX
This odd sticking clutch issue popped up on my '03 (approx 22.5k miles) a few days ago. I've done a few Ranger fluid removals which resulted in clean fluid after each single draining of the reservoir (removed fluid is darker, but not black). To buy some time I've installed a 6 inch spring to provide some extra return tension to the clutch pedal which has alleviated the pedal sticking problem. I'll find some time to replace all the fluid, and then if it recurs with the new spring removed I'll replace the master to see if that's the root cause.
I can't believe that a car which was essentially a garage trophy for the prior owners could have a bad slave cylinder, but we shall see. The thought of having to drop the drive train on a pampered, low-mileage, A/E convertible is "inconceivable", as Vizzini would say. (Princess Bride reference)
I can't believe that a car which was essentially a garage trophy for the prior owners could have a bad slave cylinder, but we shall see. The thought of having to drop the drive train on a pampered, low-mileage, A/E convertible is "inconceivable", as Vizzini would say. (Princess Bride reference)
