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Anyone know of a good set of alignment specs for the C5? Looking to have mine aligned next week and it will not be with the factory specs. Need to be able to plant the rear tires as much as possible going straight and not so much cornering since its on big-n-skinnies.
Are you on stock bushings still? I had mine aligned to factory specs with about 200 pounds of weight in the back to simulate squat. More weight would have been ideal, but its been working great for me on a bias ply
I aksed this question years ago in the perf section when all sorts of folks were drag racing C5’s. Fell on deaf ears.
I can see on my ET Street R’s that the insides are wearing more than the outsides. Which says too much negative camber. And of course that increases with squat. Not sure how much.
The other thing these do, is toe in at launch due to the tires trying to pass the car. And that’s the control arm bushings squishing.
I’d imagine you can fix some of this with alignment. But I can picture an all out drag race alignment being evil handling for normal driving. 😊
I don’t drag mine much anymore, and it works fine as is, IF and only IF the track has great prep.
Are you on stock bushings still? I had mine aligned to factory specs with about 200 pounds of weight in the back to simulate squat. More weight would have been ideal, but its been working great for me on a bias ply
I aksed this question years ago in the perf section when all sorts of folks were drag racing C5’s. Fell on deaf ears.
I can see on my ET Street R’s that the insides are wearing more than the outsides. Which says too much negative camber. And of course that increases with squat. Not sure how much.
The other thing these do, is toe in at launch due to the tires trying to pass the car. And that’s the control arm bushings squishing.
I’d imagine you can fix some of this with alignment. But I can picture an all out drag race alignment being evil handling for normal driving. 😊
I don’t drag mine much anymore, and it works fine as is, IF and only IF the track has great prep.
Ron
Not super worried about carving corners - my street wheels are 15" drag radials (275/60s) and semi-skinnies (225s) up front. But I am going to NOT use factory alignment for the rear. for sure. Will probably go with something like factory alignment up front and for the rear 0 - +0.1 camber and 0 - -0.0625 toe.
You will be rowing some gears quickly!
Mid 8’s are no simple task.
I went 8.76 in my Nova, auto trans a number of years ago. Still shooting for an 8.50.
5.3 single turbo.
I should be putting 1100-12xx to the ground so I will definitely have the power to do it. I just need the traction and the driving...and to not break haha.
Reach out to George at Fark’s Supercars. They’ve drag raced an IRS car for a long time - though it is now a solid axle setup. They do a lot of race car chassis setup stuff.
DBN on here is an IRS guru as well, but he doesn’t come on here much. Occasionally in the drag race section.
The bushings definitely help the deflection on the hit. Like Ron said, my Street Rs show the wear on the inside edge also although it has evened out and not gotten any worse since I had the car aligned. I'm on stock bushings still though.
What clutch are you running? Radial and manual at that power level is asking to leave drivetrain parts on the track. And if you run a bias I feel like the alignment isn't quite as important as it is on a radial as long as the car is going straight because of how much the tire itself will deflect.