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mines does that when the refrigerant is a little low...
so have you done this multiple times cause that screams leak somewhere. Also isn’t there only one AC condenser (whatever it’s called) to cool the system? If so, your fix doesn’t make since. If there are two then I understand.
so have you done this multiple times cause that screams leak somewhere. Also isn’t there only one AC condenser (whatever it’s called) to cool the system? If so, your fix doesn’t make since. If there are two then I understand.
I believe the condition wca_tim is describing is when the driver side outlet air temperature is cool but considerably warmer than the passenger side. This difference in temperature is typically caused by a low R134a charge level. I believe you have said your driver side blows hot. If it truly is hot and the passenger side is cold, your situation does not sound like low R134a.
I believe the condition wca_tim is describing is when the driver side outlet air temperature is cool but considerably warmer than the passenger side. This difference in temperature is typically caused by a low R134a charge level. I believe you have said your driver side blows hot. If it truly is hot and the passenger side is cold, your situation does not sound like low R134a.
It could be the driver side actuator. If its bad you can read the codes via the DIC. Codes will be set when the door is not working properly.
It could be the driver side actuator. If its bad you can read the codes via the DIC. Codes will be set when the door is not working properly.
my whole question is about where the actuator door that separates the dual air is and if there’s anything I need to about going any deeper than just the dash being pulled.
my whole question is about where the actuator door that separates the dual air is and if there’s anything I need to about going any deeper than just the dash being pulled.
so have you done this multiple times cause that screams leak somewhere. Also isn’t there only one AC condenser (whatever it’s called) to cool the system? If so, your fix doesn’t make since. If there are two then I understand.
When the charge is low, the liquid that is introduced to the one side of the condenser evaporates before cooling the whole evaporator... It's a fairly common situation and something that is worth a quick check (checking the charge is often a key step in evaluating an ac problem). Mine gets low every year or so, friends have observed the same thing. You really think it's leaking??? (I'll get around to fixing it when it is bad enough to warrant the hassle of doing so.)
could it be one of the other god ideas people posted? of course! I just remember being very surprised when that's what it turned out to be on mine years or so ago...
you can check the low side and add a little 134a with one of the inexpensive can/hose/ gauge setups that are cheap at most auto parts stores and even places like walmart. if the issue is refrigerant, it won't take much to make it cold again. You can also check some of the other things folks mentioned (ie dic codes) yourself and maybe save yourself an unnecessary bill. just a thought...
so have you done this multiple times cause that screams leak somewhere. Also isn’t there only one AC condenser (whatever it’s called) to cool the system? If so, your fix doesn’t make since. If there are two then I understand.
When the charge is low, the liquid that is introduced to the one side of the condenser evaporates before cooling the whole evaporator... It's a fairly common situation and something that is worth a quick check (checking the charge is often a key step in evaluating an ac problem). Mine gets low every year or so, friends have observed the same thing. You really think it's leaking??? (I'll get around to fixing it when it is bad enough to warrant the hassle of doing so.)
Could it be one of the other good ideas people posted? of course! I just remember being very surprised when that's what it turned out to be on mine a decade or so ago...
my whole question is about where the actuator door that separates the dual air is and if there’s anything I need to about going any deeper than just the dash being pulled.
I remember reading a post about pulling fuse#27 to reset the actuators. Is that correct? If so, what does that actually accomplish? And where is #27 located...