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I'm really struggling with the AC actuator on my car.
I've replaced it twice now, and the last time was in just in November a little more than a month ago. This seems excessive to have it fail so quickly.
The last one I pulled out in November had no physical visible damage to any of the gears or parts that I could see. Now the current actuator is exhibiting the same behavior as the old one.
The actuator still moves, but doesn't get the full range. I've forced a re-index of it by clearing the codes on the DIC, and even pulling the HVAC fuses, but even then it doesn't sweep the full range of temperature positions.
The passenger side actuator is still solid and performs well, that side of the car can blow out full cold and hot air.
Hey guys, just wanted to give a follow up and see if anyone else has any ideas.
This last weekend, I went ahead and swapped the driver side actuator again. I've been using Dorman 604-106 actuators, but this time I changed it to a TechSmart F04013.
After all that the driver side still blows out warm air! :-(
There are no HVAC codes, I have re-indexed the actuator (reset DIC and pulled fuses), and it still refuses to blow out cold air! The passenger side on the other hand works like a champ, and blows out 40°f cold air perfectly.
I've done it two ways now (three if you count the passenger side).
The first is to simply remove the bottom panel (two plugs and one metal retension push washer). I'm not sure what the bottom panel is called, but it's the panel that has the driver foot light and OBD2 ports.
Next is to remove the metal BOSE amplifier box (two screws and a plug), which is pretty easy.
Once that is out of the way, you can do your best impersonation of a contortionist and reach into the black abyss to unscrew two more screws and a plug holding the actuator in.
I've found that to be the fastest method, but hurts my back laying upside down across the footwell all the way outside onto the floor... but I can get the old part out and a new one in, all in about 45 minutes. Because I have an upgraded audio system I don't even use the BOSE amplifier anymore, and have completely remove it from my system!
The second method is to remove the center console, bezel, and driver knee bash panel. From there, you drop the steering wheel, and finally pull the IPC out. I found that it was really hard to access the bottom screw holding the actuator in place, and ended up going through the bottom panel anyway to unscrew it and attach the new actuator.
For the driver side actuator, you do not need to remove the dash pad at all! Yay. But for the passenger side you must. Boo.
Here is what it looks like with the IPC out. I've highlighted where the little bugger is hiding
I wanted to add some more information, hopefully some other members have some help to offer.
I've gotten a manifold gauge set and have been writing down the pressures of the system and am getting some strange readings...
I took all samples with AC in manual mode, windows open, set to 60°f, with Max fan levels.
Ambient Air Temp: 87°f (According to car dash, 83° to weather.com)
Relative Humidity: 25%
Low Side pressure: 31-35 PSI
High Side pressure: 225-260 PSI
Center duct temp: 40-47°F
RPMs: 700 (idle RPM, no helper to press the pedal )
The low side is 10 to 20 PSI lower than it should be, while high side is normal! What would be causing this?
Additionally I've noticed that sometimes with the windows closed the temperature from the center duct cat get as low as 32°F. The high side pressure readings sometimes drop significantly (50 PSI) as the center duct air temp jumps back up to around 55°f. This will happen for a few moments, then cycle back to the 225+ PSI range.
In summary, the low pressure side is too low, and the high pressure side is mostly normal. I currently think that the system has both a blockage, and might also overcharged.
I wanted to add some more information, hopefully some other members have some help to offer.
I've gotten a manifold gauge set and have been writing down the pressures of the system and am getting some strange readings...
I took all samples with AC in manual mode, windows open, set to 60°f, with Max fan levels.
Ambient Air Temp: 87°f (According to car dash, 83° to weather.com)
Relative Humidity: 25%
Low Side pressure: 31-35 PSI
High Side pressure: 225-260 PSI
Center duct temp: 40-47°F
RPMs: 700 (idle RPM, no helper to press the pedal )
The low side is 10 to 20 PSI lower than it should be, while high side is normal! What would be causing this?
Additionally I've noticed that sometimes with the windows closed the temperature from the center duct cat get as low as 32°F. The high side pressure readings sometimes drop significantly (50 PSI) as the center duct air temp jumps back up to around 55°f. This will happen for a few moments, then cycle back to the 225+ PSI range.
In summary, the low pressure side is too low, and the high pressure side is mostly normal. I currently think that the system has both a blockage, and might also overcharged.
What the heck is going on!?
Cold passenger and warm cool driver side without any actuator codes is almost always a low charge. Since you are not sure the pressures are correct, I would have the system evacuated and recharged with the correct weight of r124 and the pressure will take care of itself.
I'd like to thank you Zoidman, without your time estimate of 45 minutes to change out the drivers actuator, I wouldn't have tackle this job today. I went in from the bottom, standing on my pinhead and changed the actuator in about 50 minutes, minus the time I had to go buy the 5.5mm socket at Ace. The difficult part was lining up the blend door so that the actuator would slip on.
I agree that lining the new part back up is probably the most difficult part.
When I did the job the first time I forgot that which two holes the actuator is supposed to be screwed in at. I spent about 30 frustrating minutes trying to put a screw into a support peg where it was not supposed to have a screw!
I took a detailed picture to remind myself of it for next time lol
Cold passenger and warm cool driver side without any actuator codes is almost always a low charge. Since you are not sure the pressures are correct, I would have the system evacuated and recharged with the correct weight of r124 and the pressure will take care of itself.
100% on the mark!
I would have the system evacuated, replace the orifice restrictor tube and add a shot of the correct refrigerant oil. Once that is accomplished, replace the charge with the correct amount of R-134.
Spot on advice. The car was low (basically out) of refrigerant.
Stealership charged it up and now it's blowing cold air once more.
Unfortunately the dealership minions couldn't find the leak in the AC system, so they blindly recommended the compressor.
Just a cool 1800$ (pun intended).
It has been a few weeks since then, and I do believe that I've been able to find the refrigerant leak.
To my untrained eye it looks like the rear seal where the high and low pressure lines enter the compressor is leaking.
Do I need to remove the compressor to replace this seal, or can it be done in place?
Looking up at rear end of AC compressor from wheel well
Looking at rear end of AC compressor from engine bay
Long shot but,, If it were me, I would try re-torqueing the bolt and see if the leak stops. Squirt some soapy water on it and see if it bubbles up before and after the repair.
NOTE!! If it has been leaking, I would put an OIL CHARGE in the system.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 04-21-2017 at 10:16 PM.
01-11-2017, 08:30 PM
Driver side AC Actuator
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