So I’m looking into getting a camshaft kit for my 2004 automatic corvette, I called BTR and they told me for stage 2 all I should need is: Red hot cam, valve springs, and hardened pushrods, they also said “you can get it in one of our kits” so I go to check out the kit and I know nothing about pushrods valve springs or anything like that, so I don’t know what I’m looking at or what I should get.. I am pretty young and new to most of this but very fascinated in the whole thing, I could use some pointers from some experts.

 

The stock pushrod is 7.4”. However, you always check the pushrod length when installing a new cam. Zillions of videos on YouTube about this. You should upgrade your pushrods to 0.80 wall, 5/16” or 11/32” thick, chromoly steel.

Verify with BTR that those springs are recommended for that cam.

Pneumatic tool - This is required if you are using compressed air to keep the valves in place while you change the springs. If you don’t have compressed air, there is a procedure (I can post a copy if you need) to rotate the engine so the piston is TDC for the given cylinder you’re changing springs.

*Note: You will need a valve spring compressor regardless of how you hold the valves up.

Assembly lube - yes

Valve seal tool - yes (not required, but better if you’re not familiar with installing them)

Again, YouTube is your friend. Just search “LS Cam Swap”, “LS Valve Spring Swap”, etc., and watch a bunch of videos. Also, to change the cam, you’ll need to remove your steering rack, harmonic balancer, front timing cover, timing chain, spark plug coils, and valve covers. That’s a whole other story.

Good luck with your project.

 

Thank you, this was super helpful. I am gonna take the car to a local shop or something like that because I don’t have the necessary tools to do it at home, also because I don’t want to mess anything up.

 

also I have no idea what springs I’m using.. I accidentally left that on there when I was just going through them.

 

Having a shop do the work is a good move. Make sure they are a qualified Corvette/race shop. I’d still suggest watching some videos so you are at least conversant with the work and understand what you’ll be paying for. 👍

 

If you're having a shop do the work, and you come to them with parts in hand, they may turn you away. Often they'll want to source the parts themselves, so have that conversation with the shop first.

 

Since you are asking parental advice, the advice given in this thread is correct. Talk to a shops (several if you can) about the many options you have to make your car faster. Be honest about your budget, and how you will be paying for the work/parts, and they should give you realistic expectations on what things cost. Also be aware, once they tear into your engine, they can find other things that need addressing so make sure you budget some extra (Seals, Oil pump, Balancer, belts and pulleys are things that come to mind). You will need tuning to make any cam run properly, make sure the shop you choose has options or partners for tuning.

If choosing to pursue a self install, be sure to ask many questions along the way. I don't know about your mechanical ability, but a cam swap I'd estimate is a level 7/8 out of 10 (advanced) in mechanical ability. The only things harder on a C5 would be Clutch swaps/Torque converter swaps and engine swaps.

 

The forum has a couple of threads that may be helpful. The first is a list of trusted shops used by forum members. If you happen to find one not already listed, please go back and add it to the thread. It might help the next guy in your area.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...shop-here.html

This next thread is about your experience, positive or negative. This applies to all types of vendors including parts suppliers. It’s a great source to read through, so you know who to trust, and when to be skeptical.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-feedback-153/

 

you might have just really saved me a heart break, thank you

 

Good advice, vette4fl. OP-BTR has some good stuff, and Brian Tooley, who also started Total Engine Airflow, is very knowledgeable. It wont hurt to double check everything in any "kit." But I'm sure Brian wouldnt include springs which weren't compatible with his cams. It's always good to educate yourself in any endeavor you might pursue. Some shops-NOT ALL-Will be more likely to take advantage of ignorance. So being conversant on their approximate level can only help you. You also might want to consider purchasing the BTR VR2 Trunnion upgrade. Stay away from their earlier V1 version.....

 

I would make sure the shop is measuring the push rod lenghts, not just going 7.400". I'd also spring for Morel drop in lifters or Johnson Lifters (but not the ebay Johnson Hylift, googling should bring some Ls1tech topics on this). I would not run LS7 lifters. Go with real GM lifter treys. The install isn't hard but you do need some tools and take your time. Being an auto also ask if you need to change the torque converter for a higher stall. Katech and that engine guy on youtube have videos on measuring pushrods. Do research on here and LS1tech. The more you know, the more you'll know to ask about.

Many shops will only tune cars they did the work on, and many require you to buy the parts from them. I don't blame them, if you've been around the hobby long enough, you've heard a story where a tune blames the install, and they blame the tuner, or the shop was handed bad parts from the owner.

 

Rut Roh...
Why the no LS7 lifters???

 

Watched enough fail, Morels and Johnsons have been reliable.

 

Of the three, which sells the most?

 

WHAT IS YOUR OVER ALL GOAL for the engine/car? Power "Torque/Horse Power"?? How do you drive the car? Track? Street? Daily Driver????

Questions??
Engine Mileage/ condition? (This is a BIG determining factor on how much cash you will need for OTHER THINGS that should be addressed during the cam swap!)
Automatic or Manual Transmission?
Who is tuning the Engine after the cam install?
Should you UPGRADE to larger injectors?
Timing Chain, Gears, oil pump up grade?

Many, many more questions that need to be asked and answered.

There are SO MANY other things that need to be addressed before, during and after doing a cam install. Do you care about drivability? Remember the Ole Racers Creed. FAST, CHEEP, RELIABLE. Pick TWO because you cant have all THREE! Then you have to consider what is the weakest link on your car. Trans, differential, traction, wheel hop, torque tube??

Then again, What is your overall budget for adding power correctly??

Just trying to keep you from poorly planning your project.

Bill C

 

Bill Curlee is right to select the parts to match your driving needs. I recently changed from a high horsepower/ high rpm cam to a cam with better low end torque (a CompCam #54-412-11), this is an A4 transmission car with a mild torque converter and 3:15 gears. The old cam rpm range was something like 2800-7200, the power came on strong around 3000 and up but I rarely needed or used that. The new cam has a more usable rpm range of 1200-6000 for better torque in my everyday driving such as accelerating after making a slow turn or taking off from a stop light without having to get the engine revs way up. Find out what the rpm range of that cam is and decide if it'll be a good match to what you're looking for and what torque converter/ rear end gears you have or plan to have.

 

Since I just installed these LS7 lifters on my low lift cam swap effort (thanks for your input with that btw), with LS7 lifters what is the failure mode to look out for? These were not cheap at $400. The PN I bought is 12499225. I did check the length on install plus ended up with the 7.400 that every one said I'd end up with. I have a push rod checking tool if any one needs it.

 

Bill's advice is spot on if you're starting your plan from scratch.
Pick a goal for your car based on how you intend to use it and work towards that goal.
Everything is a compromise.
If you just want it to be quicker on the street a gearing change is probably cheaper, just swap rear ends.
Be realistic with your goal. Pointless to build a 300 mph car if you're only ever going to go 55.
Race cars always break so plan on frequent repairs if you're hammering it every time you get in it.

 

Listen for a change in lifter noise / louder tick. You maybe fine the low lift certainly puts less stress on the lifter.

 

You are camming an A4 Automatic. Using a more aggressive cam, you will likely need to install a higher stall speed converter. That also needs tuning so the transmission shifts properly with the higher stall converter. It gets expensive when you tune for the new cam and then figure out that you need a better converter and then need another tune for that. That being said, Stock A4 internal components don't usually fair well under the added HP/TQ. They will start slipping after having fun over time. . Like Dads2kconvertib stated "Everything is a compromise"

When I did my 02 ZO6 Heads Cam up-grade, I waited until I had everything I needed to do ALL the things needed to make the engine up grade a complete job. Brother, the list of parts was very long and $$$$$$$$$. When it was all said and done and the engine was properly tuned and running perfectly, I experienced clutch issues (The Clutch Stuck to the floor under high RPM Shifting.) Then came another WHOLE MAJOR EXPENSIVE part of the project. Drivetrain up-grades.

I also agree with a gearing change. Possibly consider a differential regearing and internal differential parts hardening. Once that's done and you decide that you need MORE POWER, at least you will have proper gearing and a sound differential to support more engine power.

​​​​​​​BC