01 P1518 code and relay 42 buzzing
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
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01 P1518 code and relay 42 buzzing
Hello I really need some help I have this 01 I have the code P1518 I have noticed with the key on and car running that relay 42 is buzzing I have replaced the electronics to the ignition switch I got the car to run normally a few times before I changed the ignition switch by banging on the key the buzzing would stop and the car would run normally im at the end of my rope with this lol need help
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Relay buzzing pretty much means that relay is experiencing a LOW VOLTAGE CONDITION. on the control winding side of the relay coil. OR The relay is bad. Find the same number relay in that fuse box and swap one in its place to rule out a bad relay.
If it were me, I would get a multimeter and actually measure the voltage on the relay coil when the relay is in place or load the control side of the circuit down with an incandescent test lamp and check what voltage is getting to the coil under load. Should be full battery voltage as measured on the battery terminals at time of testing. REMEMBER, You need to look at the voltage under some sort of electrical load to get the real world voltage in that circuit.
Tell us what you see.
If it were me, I would get a multimeter and actually measure the voltage on the relay coil when the relay is in place or load the control side of the circuit down with an incandescent test lamp and check what voltage is getting to the coil under load. Should be full battery voltage as measured on the battery terminals at time of testing. REMEMBER, You need to look at the voltage under some sort of electrical load to get the real world voltage in that circuit.
Tell us what you see.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Relay buzzing pretty much means that relay is experiencing a LOW VOLTAGE CONDITION. on the control winding side of the relay coil. OR The relay is bad. Find the same number relay in that fuse box and swap one in its place to rule out a bad relay.
If it were me, I would get a multimeter and actually measure the voltage on the relay coil when the relay is in place or load the control side of the circuit down with an incandescent test lamp and check what voltage is getting to the coil under load. Should be full battery voltage as measured on the battery terminals at time of testing. REMEMBER, You need to look at the voltage under some sort of electrical load to get the real world voltage in that circuit.
Tell us what you see.
If it were me, I would get a multimeter and actually measure the voltage on the relay coil when the relay is in place or load the control side of the circuit down with an incandescent test lamp and check what voltage is getting to the coil under load. Should be full battery voltage as measured on the battery terminals at time of testing. REMEMBER, You need to look at the voltage under some sort of electrical load to get the real world voltage in that circuit.
Tell us what you see.
I have 12.8 volts at the battery the relay has been replaced several times with the key on im only getting 2.1 volts at that relay number 42 for ignition
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The connectors that connect / plug into to the ignition switch are horrible and the FEMALE PINS inside the connectors are well known to SPREAD APART and make poor or no contact.
break
Recommendations:
1. Disconnect the battery, Disconnect the two connectors on the ignition switch.
2. Get a standard fuse box fuse and break it in half. Use a file to trim the spades on the fuse has to the exact width of the male pins inside the actual ignition switch. Once you have a set of male pins the same size as the male pins in the ignition switch, Conduct a PIN PUSH PULL TEST on the female pins inside the connectors with the correct width and thickness fuse male pins.
NOTE! When conducting the Pin Push Pull Test, the insertion pin should have sufficient drag/contact with the female pin to make PROPER ELECTRICAL;CONNECTION! IF, there is little to no drag when inserting / removing the test pins, you need to remove that/those pins from inside the connectors and either re-bend the little tab inside the female pin that makes connection with the male pin OR replace that/those bad pins with a new pin.
I have seen the female pins fail more times than I have seen the ignition switch fail!. Check those female pins!! IMHO, That is why you are seeing the insufficient voltage at that relay.
Bill.
break
Recommendations:
1. Disconnect the battery, Disconnect the two connectors on the ignition switch.
2. Get a standard fuse box fuse and break it in half. Use a file to trim the spades on the fuse has to the exact width of the male pins inside the actual ignition switch. Once you have a set of male pins the same size as the male pins in the ignition switch, Conduct a PIN PUSH PULL TEST on the female pins inside the connectors with the correct width and thickness fuse male pins.
NOTE! When conducting the Pin Push Pull Test, the insertion pin should have sufficient drag/contact with the female pin to make PROPER ELECTRICAL;CONNECTION! IF, there is little to no drag when inserting / removing the test pins, you need to remove that/those pins from inside the connectors and either re-bend the little tab inside the female pin that makes connection with the male pin OR replace that/those bad pins with a new pin.
I have seen the female pins fail more times than I have seen the ignition switch fail!. Check those female pins!! IMHO, That is why you are seeing the insufficient voltage at that relay.
Bill.
