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Troubleshooting chain for no start

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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 08:52 PM
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Default Troubleshooting chain for no start

Just had the clutch and torque tube done by a reputable shop and it's been working great...for 3 days.

Today, no start; turn the key and the lights come on but nothing from the starter. 11.9 volts at the battery. Jump had no effect.

So looking for guidance on the troubleshooting process. I'll have a quick look at the clutch sensor first, but looking for where to go from there...

This sucks
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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
Just had the clutch and torque tube done by a reputable shop and it's been working great...for 3 days.

Today, no start; turn the key and the lights come on but nothing from the starter. 11.9 volts at the battery. Jump had no effect.

So looking for guidance on the troubleshooting process. I'll have a quick look at the clutch sensor first, but looking for where to go from there...

This sucks

At 11.9 volts at the battery it is 40% charge…12.66 is a fully charged battery…I’d investigate the battery first !!…11.9 may be to low to even jump start the car…have it tested !!
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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
At 11.9 volts at the battery it is 40% charge…12.66 is a fully charged battery…I’d investigate the battery first !!…11.9 may be to low to even jump start the car…have it tested !!
At this point it's coming home and I will put a charger on it; the battery tested good about 30 days ago. But we gave it a Hell of a jump from the roadside assistance guy...so I can't imagine it wouldn't jump from that. Again, not even a sound from it.
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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by billla
At this point it's coming home and I will put a charger on it; the battery tested good about 30 days ago. But we gave it a Hell of a jump from the roadside assistance guy...so I can't imagine it wouldn't jump from that. Again, not even a sound from it.
Once the condition of the battery is known your diagnostic process can begin trying to determine why it doesn’t start.
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Old Nov 1, 2023 | 05:51 PM
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No cranking problems are relatively easy to solve, but you have to make sure your battery is good before further troubleshooting.
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Old Nov 1, 2023 | 06:34 PM
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waiting for batt check..
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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 09:57 PM
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Just got back from some work travel today.

DVOM shows 12.4V at the battery - after a minute of having the headlamps on it was still at 12.4V. I can't speak to the prior reading, as I didn't do it. The battery is less than 6 months old.

I would note that the key insertion feels..."crunchy" and turning the key is somewhat inconsistent. About 1 time in 3 it won't turn and I have to remove and re-insert. This is new :-/

What's next?
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 09:14 AM
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Sounds like you may have a worn key, or something going bad with the key cylinder, do you have a spare key to try. The Ignition switch also has a set of contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet, if those contacts aren't making good contact with the resistor pellet the car will not crank over.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
Sounds like you may have a worn key, or something going bad with the key cylinder, do you have a spare key to try. The Ignition switch also has a set of contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet, if those contacts aren't making good contact with the resistor pellet the car will not crank over.
The car is a daily driver, so it sees the key a lot. I did try 2 other keys and they're all kinda crunchy...this is new :-/
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 11:44 AM
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Most likely the Ignition switch, at the very front of the Ignition switch there is a assembly that contains the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet, maybe those contacts are producing the crunchy sound you are hearing. You will probably have to remove the Ignition switch for further testing.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
Most likely the Ignition switch, at the very front of the Ignition switch there is a assembly that contains the contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet, maybe those contacts are producing the crunchy sound you are hearing. You will probably have to remove the Ignition switch for further testing.
Thanks; if that's the next step I can probably have it out tomorrow or the next day; looks pretty straightforward in the Service Manual.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 11:39 PM
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You will want to act before it FAILS and you cant get the key IN or OUT. IF, It were ME,, I would find a new C5 ignition key cylinder. with a new VATS sensor on the end of the cylinder. Look on the internet for a new cylinder. Next, either go to the dealer or find a lock smith that can RE-KEY the new key cylinder to the Old OEM Cylinder.

The Lock Cylinder comes out of the ignition switch body really easy. Remove the Ignition Switch, insert the key into the switch, turn the switch to RUN/ON. On the side of the barrel of the ignition switch, will be a small metal tab. Depress the tab and extract the key cylinder. You might want to disconnect the battery because the car will remain ON. or You can use a screwdriver and insert it into the now empty ignition switch. At the end of the hole will be a slot that the screwdriver will fit in and you can turn it off.

Once the lock cylinder is rekeyed to the Old OEM key, simply turn the switch to ON, slide the cylinder back in and reinstall the cylinder.

BC
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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I would find a new C5 ignition key cylinder. with a new VATS sensor on the end of the cylinder.

go to the dealer or find a lock smith that can RE-KEY the new key cylinder to the Old OEM Cylinder.
Thanks, Bill. I have a new AC Delco ignition key cylinder in-hand.

In your experience, is this type of re-key fairly common, i.e. I won't get blank stares when asking? Do they need the old cylinder to do this, or can they do it off the key?

Thanks!

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Old Nov 6, 2023 | 03:21 PM
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From what Ive been told (I never had to actually do it), the Stealership can make you a key from the VIN off of your car. Be prepared to show them documentation of ownership. Call them and discuss the issue. I think they can alse re-key the cylinder also but, like I said, call before you go there with your stuff. Not all dealerships are able to do weird stuff like that. Call different ones. Get a price. Compare dealer services to some local locksmiths..
You have to get a dedicated key with the exact VATS resistor value. People usually find them on the internet. I personally would go to a lock expert to get a new key cut. If the person at a big box store screws it up, You are just out of luck cause they wont have any more C5 VATS keys laying around to do the job over.
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Old Nov 7, 2023 | 07:38 PM
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PROBLEM RESOLVED!

Took me about 20 minutes to get the interior bits and switch out. I went ahead and removed the green cover to inspect the contacts while it was out and they looked great.

The local locksmith was able to quickly re-key the new cylinder for $65 (you must have ID and proof of ownership) and it took about 25 minutes to get the switch back in. As the Service Manual says, make note of the wire routing from the cylinder to the connector that slides onto the side of the switch.

Not really any gotchas on this, other than a little patience working through getting the interior bits out and then back in.

As always, many thanks to the community that makes this sort of success possible.
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