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Just had my balancer leave the chat in my 30,xxx mile c5. I pulled it all apart pretty quickly, but the timing cover has been damaged from the back of the balancer touching it. I’m plenty familiar with the process of doing the job, but my concern is getting it to seal up WITHOUT removing the oil pan(which I really don’t want to do)
I would buy an alignment tool to do the job, but any other tips on how to do it successfully?
Everything must be clean, obviously. Use a small amount of RTV, with dabs in the corners, I like the high temp orange stuff. I used a new cover gasket. Get all of the ten bolts started, but not tight, not really even touching the cover. Install the Balancer. Spin the engine over a couple times with a socket and ratchet (easier with the plugs out) without disturbing the cover, let the rotating balancer align the cover on the block, now tighten the ten bolts that hold the cover on. Don't forget the two on the bottom and get your final torque on the Balancer bolt if you have not already.
About half way through this great write up on a head/cam swap he explains how to install the cover. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
The bolts on the bottom, do I need to remove the front leaf spring to get them out, or can they just be loosened enough and dropped down onto the leaf?
Also, dabs in the corners, which corners are you referring too?
Last edited by Hereispappagray; Jan 9, 2024 at 08:07 AM.
FWIW, and YMMV, BUT.......I made my own alignment tool. Works just like the Sac City tool. I also cut a 1/8" clearance flat on it. You install the alignment tool with the flat facing down towards the pan surface. This allows the alignment tool to locate the timing cover without running into the oil pan. Some will say this will not work. I say the silicone/aluminum pan gasket will pull the cover against it to locate the cover vertically. The alignment tool will locate the cover horizontally. I have done this procedure this way twice, and never had a leak. Over 30,000 miles on the last cam change, no leaks. It worked for me.....
The bolts on the bottom, do I need to remove the front leaf spring to get them out, or can they just be loosened enough and dropped down onto the leaf? Remove those bolts going thru the pan into the TC cover. No Need to remove the leaf spring. Once the 10mm bolts break free, these should wind out easily. Don't forget to put them back in. The key is to leave all the TC cover bolts loose until you get the balancer on and spin the engine over to center the new seal that you put in the TC cover.Install the balancer, with TC cover loose, spin over the engine, tighten all of the TC cover bolts, and don't forget the bottom ones.
Also, dabs in the corners, which corners are you referring too? The corners where where the TC cover and oil pan intersect, or touch. The new gasket will seal the larger flat surfaces.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense. Look at the pictures on LS1howto.com scroll about halfway down in this link and there is instructions with pictures on how to install the TC cover. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
Edit: Added pics of where the dabs of RTV should be. Just make sure there is a small dab in the corners and don't use a butt load on the flats as the gasket should seal the large flat contact areas. There will always be a slight gap in the corners: Yellow arrows point to where the dabs of RTV should be
Last edited by Prop Joe; Jan 9, 2024 at 09:05 AM.
Reason: added pic
Timing Cover Replacement in Car
