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EBCM Missing?

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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 03:05 PM
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Default EBCM Missing?

I have a newer to me 98 C5 M6 that has the traction and abs lights on. Was looking to see which EBCM I may possibly need, but i cannot seem to find it. Is this the model that’s somewhere in the rear of the vehicle? Anyone confirm this?




Last edited by SaltyBones; Feb 4, 2024 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 03:25 PM
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Yes at the rear of the car.
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 07:22 PM
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Any advice on how to disconnect the harness, or does it have to be unbolted from the car in order to disconnect the harness?
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:20 AM
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Unfortunately I have never had to deal with EBCM problems on my 97 m6 coupe, but hopefully someone here who has will reply.
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 11:09 PM
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I've re-soldered the EBCM in my 2002. If you like I can forward all the info that I've collected on doing the repair.
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 11:43 PM
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Sort of like the joke aircraft squawk:

Squawk: Left engine missing.

Response: Engine found on left side of airplane
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Alley Oop
I've re-soldered the EBCM in my 2002. If you like I can forward all the info that I've collected on doing the repair.
That would be great! I really appreciate that!
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Old Feb 8, 2024 | 11:33 AM
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Hope this works for you. I can't get the pics to come thru, at least you've got the written material. Good Luck.

youtube videos:

Excellent video Fixing the EBCM (electronic brake control module) in A C5 Corvette (2001 to 2004)

Good video C5 Corvette EBCM traction control fix under $15.00

Good video C5 Corvette - EBCM Repair


apparently similar year LeSabre EBCMs are nearly identical if not identical

Important to have narrow 20 torx driver for the mid mounting nuts, regular torx bit diameter too large.

Many early year C5 owners with well over 100K miles and no EBCM problems. Also some with low mileage that have had the EBCM fail. The down side of an early year EBCM failure is that they are not repairable (if it is the EBCM that fails) and there have not been new ones available for at least 10 years. Even if the EBCM fails you simply loose those functions that require the EBCM. Specifically anti-lock brakes, traction control and if your car is equipped with RPO JL4 then Active Handling. None of those are required to be able to drive the car unless your state/province requires that factory features like ABS be operational to pass an inspection. Worst case is the EBCM does fail and you don't have ABS.





My experience removing the EBCM on my 2002 Vette: I was 78 years old when I did this job.

I magnetized a T20, 8 inch screw driver, T20 extension and a T15 bit. Used a ¼ inch drive socket set. You’ll need a ¼” drill and tap set (make sure you match a bolt to the tap)

I used a QuickJack

I used 2 LED lights, 1 above the EBCM and 1 below. I duct taped them into place. I didn’t want any hot bulbs near my hands. This will allow you to see the screw heads.

I removed the upper two screws from above

I removed the middle and lower two screws while under the car. With 2 lights, it was reasonably easy to see and get at the middle screws.

I removed the EBCM while under the car, easier than trying to pull it out from above.

Had my magnetic fishing pole handy for screw removal, the screws are not SS.

Don’t rush, take lots of breaks.

To replace the screws, I taped the edge of the screw head to the magnetized screw driver with narrow strips of duct tape. It keeps the screw in place with considerable stability and after installation, the tape pulls off the screw without leaving any tape behind.

Did some test soldering before tackling the mother board.

I did not bolt it in to see if the repair worked, it checked out.



The experiences of others…

I'm 65 & did my 2003 C5 z06 myself on a Friday & Saturday. Not gonna sugar coat it, it WAS a beating! Easiest part is the soldering. Getting the EBCM unit out, removing the cover for access to the circuitry board & then re-installing the unit in the car is the beating, because of your limited work space getting the unit out & back in. But it WORKED! All warning lights are now gone, I've got my ABS, Traction Control & Competitive Driving modes back. The car runs great & it cost me nothing but some blood, sweat & tears, lol. If you have some mechanical ability, a little circuitry soldering experience and A LOT of PATIENCE, you too can do it. Spend the $1700 that shops want to charge you to make the repairs on something fun for yourself! Happy Vette owner, again!





How-To repair EBCM avoiding costly repairs through ABSfixer or Fleabay

For 2001 and later C5's

This is my first write up for CorvetteForum and without this Forum I would not have been able to repair my own EBCM. Bear with me as I may have forgotten something or may not have been too clear in my explanation.



First, if you don’t already know how, you’ll want to
Pull Your Codes

Next, I will direct you to the Electrical Info Thread where you should try to take care of any issues you could have in the ground points. (Thanks to Bill Curlee for the thread)

Once the grounds have been cleaned and taken care of we’ll move on to the removal of the EBCM. I'm aware that step 7 says to send it to ABSfixer. Disregard that step and we'll proceed to the disassembly of the EBCM.

Items required:
Soldering Iron
Solder
De-Solder braid or pump
1 Phillips Screw Driver
Exacto Knife
Tube of Silicone Sealent

Now in order to remove the case I followed these steps:

1. remove 6 x screws
2. remove silicon from that hole on the back lower corner of the EBCM.
3. use a 2BA (or similar) 'thread tap' to cut a thread in that hole
4. screw matching thread screw/bolt into hole, (it misses pcb inside) until it touches cover plate (screw/bolt needs to be 3" long max).
5. carry on winding the screw in until it starts pushing the cover plate away enough to break that gasket seal and allow space to insert those flat blade screwdrivers and work around the remainder. (Thank You JerseyC5)

But if you’re like me you won’t have a tap to make a nice threaded hole. I was lucky and found a screw long enough and small enough to be threaded by hand. This is used to apply enough pressure so the back would separate. Refer to the image and said screw I used:


[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.jpg[/img]

Once the EBCM is taken apart it will look this (Once again Thank You Bill Curlee):

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.jpg[/img]

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image003.jpg[/img]

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image004.jpg[/img]


[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image005.jpg[/img]

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image006.jpg[/img]


[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image007.jpg[/img]

You may need some good lighting and possibly a magnifying glass to inspect the solder points of 5posts.

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image008.jpg[/img]

This most likely, as with so many others on the Forum causing the C1214 code. You need to get a soldering iron and some solder to re-solder any point that looks questionable. Once done you will want to test the EBCM, so put the box back together WITHOUT sealant and temp install the EBCM in your C5. Clear any codes before starting your car and you should be ok to start her up and check for any DIC messages.

If you have no messages then you've successfully repaired your own EBCM. Remove the EBCM apply some silicone and put the box back together completely. Install the EBCM using the steps
here in reverse.


For replacing relay
If you suspect or may want to buy a new relay as a “just in case,” you’ll need to Go HEREand place an order for a new relay (The relay PB1321-ND HAS BEEN SUPERCEDED BY N000ORWH-SH-112D, N000 & the link is current with this info). You’ll also need to remove the silicone that’s surrounding the relay like so

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image009.jpg[/img]

[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image010.jpg[/img]

Be very careful to not cut anything around the relay or the Circuit Board. Once the silicone is removed de-solder the points and cut a small amount off of each post in order to lower the relay and slide it out.

Take the new relay and just like the relay you removed, you may have to cut some material off each post to get it to fit. Install the relay, solder the points and refer to the instructions for install above.

Hopefully this makes enough sense for you guys to follow. Again if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks to everyone who helped me and to the members who had previous info on this stupid C1214 code.

nvusgt




EXCELLENT POST and guidance! This will save a LOT of people a LOT of CASH. REMEMBER! When you reinstall the EBTCM for the last time after your test,,, MAKE SURE that the black seal that lays against the BPMV is 100% intact and air tight. Numerous people have not had a good seal and the module will fill full of water and BURN UP! [img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image011.gif[/img]

Seal up the small hole for the SCREW!!!!

That guy took some great EBTCM pictures!
[img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image012.gif[/img][img]file:///C:/Users/Mark/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image013.gif[/img]

Bill Curlee



C5 Corvette EBCM traction control fix under $15.00

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Old Feb 9, 2024 | 05:20 PM
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Guys, he has a 98. These repair procedures won't work for a 98.

I'd contact ABS Fixer, as I believe they now offer a fix for the 97-2000 EBCM modules, though not inexpensive.
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