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You should examine the contacts where the IGN relay plugs into for corrosion and insure the contacts are tight. You should be able to measure voltages at the Ignition switch but it seems impossible to do without removing the switch. You will have to remove it and let it drop down with the wires still attached to it.
Also worth noting, battery has more than enough juice, but when I look to see if there are any codes, it says “no comm” for all the diagnostics
If you are getting all no comms and can’t talk to ANY module you may have a serial data bus issue !!…don’t know how much electrical experience you have but you will have to diagnose this will at least a DVOM…a scope is much better though !!
If you are getting all no comms and can’t talk to ANY module you may have a serial data bus issue !!…don’t know how much electrical experience you have but you will have to diagnose this will at least a DVOM…a scope is much better though !!
I actually started a thread in the general forum asking about the corvette specific shops to see positive and negatives.
obviously OZ wasn’t one I listed but I appreciate the info. I’m NW side so pretty good hike down there
Any good diagnostic tech does NOT have to be a “Corvette Specific” one…they can diagnose ANY car because they understand electrical circuits and also how sensor inputs and outputs function.
One other problem is the car is park about as close as I can get it to the wall in my garage. Backed in. It’s my effort to keep it as far away from kids and their stuff, but makes it really hard to access the passenger footwell and BCM. Or to check both doors for loose wires.
just so odd to me that I could drive the crap out of it and it run great after replacing the IGN relay and then it just do the same thing all over again.
is their anyway to test the ignition switch, without removing it?
With a DVOM you can do a “voltage drop” check across the ignition switch contacts…place one lead of DVOM on battery positive and the other lead on fuse 17 (Throttle Control)…while cranking you should see no more than 0.1-0.3 volts on your DVOM…if you see 7 volts for instance you are only getting roughly 5-6 volts across the ignition contacts…you can check the other fuses downstream of the ignition relay.
Any good diagnostic tech does NOT have to be a “Corvette Specific” one…they can diagnose ANY car because they understand electrical circuits and also how sensor inputs and outputs function.
I read threads about that last night,
so I tried turning off and on several times to see if it would work but nothing.
however I realize that only works if it’s intermittent not a completely dead ignition switch
Sorry, I'm not following. Bad ignition switch contacts will precipitate your symptoms. Turning if on an off is not going to help you. You need to inspect the switch contacts partner.
Update: flat bed picked the car up Saturday and took it to Corvette Everything. Hopefully hear something in a few days
worth noting, when I went to push it out of the garage, both windows wouldn’t roll down. So whatever is causing the other problems, is also not sending power to the windows.
Good to hear, that no communications problem can be really difficult to resolve if you don't have a good background in electronics and the right equipment.
Shop sent me an eBay link for a used TAC. I realize new isn’t available. Said I could order the part and ship direct to them.
Car has ran fine for them so might just bring it home and pay them for their diagnosing.
still find it odd that a bad TAC could cause all of this.
Can't say that I've ever seen an intermittent TAC module. Wiring....yes. Connector corroded...yes. How did they diagnose a bad TAC module if the car is running fine for them?
