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I am removing the aftermarket MGW short throw in my CE Z06 and going back to an OEM shifter. Since the work was done prior to my buying of the car, I do not have reference point for how the original shifter fit (not the obvious answer but the angle in which the unit itself sits if that makes sense.)
As a dry run, I mounted the OEM shifter and can see it bumps up against a foam piece inside the tunnel. I can see the indentation on the foam.
Anyone recall how their shifter looked with the console apart?
If you lift the foam you should have a slot that the bottom of the shifter box will fit into once you remove the foam. That at least is what is there on my 2002. I would think the foam is not allowing the box to sit flat and is producing a lean to the right for your shifter.
If you lift the foam you should have a slot that the bottom of the shifter box will fit into once you remove the foam. That at least is what is there on my 2002. I would think the foam is not allowing the box to sit flat and is producing a lean to the right for your shifter.
On my '01, I seem to recall that there's a small piece of foam, which is attached to the shifter box, but nothing like what's in the picture you've posted.
This is the original shifter and shifter box from my 2002. Notice the angular piece (hard rubber) that protrudes from the bottom of the shifter box. This will fit in a corresponding groove on the torque tube. Remove the foam and you will see the groove. Slip the angular piece into the groove, rotate the shifter toward the passenger side and the mounting holes should lie flat on the torque tube mounting holes. On the Tmod box I installed the angular part was machined into the box and not rubber like the factory box. Stock shifter and box. Angular mounting tab.
The other issue you may run into is when you put the rubber boot over the stock shifter. When installing an MGW a portion of the rubber bellows need to be removed so you will have a gap with the stock shifter in place. If you go to the MGW website they have videos showing the installation and you can see where the boot is cut.
Other than just wanting to go back to stock is there a reason you want to eliminate the MGW shifter? I find the MGW shifter to be a lot more precise in shifting but it does take a little getting used to. Either way you should be able to sell the MGW here with no problem.
You guys were right. Someone put foam and a ton of sound deadener mat in the tunnel. It has been a royal pain trying to remove it!
I believe the MGW install is where that foam comes from, it's not bad but it is in the way. You need to make sure that rubber piece on the fin on the bottom of the box, I call it the foot, is attached to the box and that fin goes into the slot on the torque tube FIRST thing. It won't fit with that foam under the box. The boot is your next problem, here is the slot on the tube that foot goes into and the difference between the boot before and after it's been cut / opened up to accommodate the aftermarket shifter. If you want to run the stock shifter the best thing you can do aside from replacing that boot and removing that foam is to send it in to be upgraded and to replace the bottom pivot bushing on the stock shifter. These two upgrades make a significant difference in how that stock shifter or any aftermarket shifter will feel on the box. It will be smoother, have les slop and stay that way forever. If you send in the box I can have it back in the mail in a day or two.
Speaking of lower shift boots, has anyone begun to reproduce them? I'd like to replace the one I have, and GM has discontinued them I searched high and low, last year, and couldn't find any, but stumbled on an internet discussion that mentioned "repros" were going to be available "in the near future"....
Speaking of lower shift boots, has anyone begun to reproduce them? I'd like to replace the one I have, and GM has discontinued them I searched high and low, last year, and couldn't find any, but stumbled on an internet discussion that mentioned "repros" were going to be available "in the near future"....
I can't say I've seen any, though a year or 2 ago I bought a reproduction one.
There is another option, one that I took... C6 lower insulator boot, and you can even potentially use the C6 upper insulator boot. Can still buy new from GM. Check it out: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...insulator.html
I believe the MGW install is where that foam comes from, it's not bad but it is in the way. You need to make sure that rubber piece on the fin on the bottom of the box, I call it the foot, is attached to the box and that fin goes into the slot on the torque tube FIRST thing. It won't fit with that foam under the box. The boot is your next problem, here is the slot on the tube that foot goes into and the difference between the boot before and after it's been cut / opened up to accommodate the aftermarket shifter. If you want to run the stock shifter the best thing you can do aside from replacing that boot and removing that foam is to send it in to be upgraded and to replace the bottom pivot bushing on the stock shifter. These two upgrades make a significant difference in how that stock shifter or any aftermarket shifter will feel on the box. It will be smoother, have les slop and stay that way forever. If you send in the box I can have it back in the mail in a day or two.
No, the MGW doesn't come with that foam for over the torque tube. The MGW comes with a piece of foam heat barrier that gets applied to the inner console facing the driver seat. And a large piece of Dynamat that you cut into two 4×5inch pieces. One for the top of the tube from the passemger side and one piece for under the tube (as far as your fingers can reach) from the driver side.
The foam in the pic was a previous owner trying to be creative.
No, the MGW doesn't come with that foam for over the torque tube. The MGW comes with a piece of foam heat barrier that gets applied to the inner console facing the driver seat. And a large piece of Dynamat that you cut into two 4×5inch pieces. One for the top of the tube from the passemger side and one piece for under the tube (as far as your fingers can reach) from the driver side.
The foam in the pic was a previous owner trying to be creative.
The dynamat was definitely applied! Under the foam, too. It was a pain to get off what I could.
The dynamat was definitely applied! Under the foam, too. It was a pain to get off what I could.
Oh I bet it was. I would've let the Dynamat remain if it was possible to remove the foam and keep the Dynamat. But if it all had to go then so be it. As long as your box fits properly is what matters most.