Ls6 valley cover pcv problem
Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Mar 20, 2024 at 02:01 AM.

















Posted by another member:
"First of all, it sounds like you had some invasive engine work performed. Was everything reassembled properly? The same goes for the catch can; you wouldn't be the first, nor the last to make a mistake. It's easy to do.
Piston Rings: Worn piston rings will allow oil past the rings and into the combustion chamber, where it is burned. Failed piston rings can cause blowby (where combustion gasses blow past the rings and into the crankcase) which can easily overwhelm the PCV system and pressurize the crankcase. If you remove the oil filler cap, this will typically look like an old time steam locomotive puffing away out of the valve cover. I haven't seen one in decades, but you used to be able to get a tool that measures the amount of air escaping through the filler neck, in order to determine if it is excessive. If it is excessive, however, there likely won't be any doubt in your mind, as you can typically also hear the puffing sound accompanying the smoke escaping from the filler neck. Note that the engine may not idle with the filler cap removed, as this causes a substantial vacuum leak, so you may need to give it a wee bit of throttle to get it to idle. Note also that you may see oil leaks due to the pressurization of the crankcase.
Valve Stem Seals: Failed valve stem seals will allow oil past the valve guide and into the combustion chamber, where it is burned. Worn valve guides may prevent the valves from sealing properly and may also allow the valve stem to rock back and forth, more than the valve stem seal can cope with. If you have a camshaft with extremely high lift, the valve guides can be subjected to excessive wear in a very short time span.
PCV System: When the PCV system fails, it is common for oil to begin seeping from every possible seal and gasket on the engine. Safely, get the car up in the air and have a good look underneath. The lack of functioning crankcase ventilation system can also turn your oil into sludge in only a couple thousand miles! There are many reasons why the PCV system may fail. On a +/- 20 year old car, I would start with the hoses. Rust may be forever, but not rubber. Due to age, heat cycles and exposure to oil vapor, rubber hoses may get hard and crack, or they may get soft and suck shut closed under intake manifold vacuum. Either situation is obviously a serious problem.
Some PCV valves have a metered orifice and a check ball with metered passages, Other PCV valves only have a metered orifice. It should go without saying that if yours has a check ball, that ball should rattle when you shake the valve. Either type of valve can get clogged with crud, effectively disabling the PCV system. As already mentioned, LS1 & LS6 engines have a liquid vapor separator located in a somewhat unconventional spot ... the valley of the engine. These liquid vapor separators have a poor reputation for allowing excessive oil into the intake manifold, via the PCV system, where the oil is eventually burned in the combustion chamber. And, that's if these liquid vapor separators are working properly. If they have failed, then the flood gates could potentially open, pouring generous amounts of oil into the intake.
The "When in doubt, renew throughout" strategy is both costly and time consuming. Unless you see an obvious cause to your problem, always start by checking the basic mechanical condition of the engine. This includes both a dry and wet compression test and a leak down test. If you have low compression, then you have a mechanical problem that needs to be addressed before proceeding. If the compression jumps up after adding a squirt of oil into the cylinder, then this suggests a ring problem. A leakdown test gauge helps to quantify the amount of leakage, but just as importantly, where is the pressure leaking to? Is it leaking into the intake manifold (via the intake valve), is it leaking into the exhaust system (past the exhaust valve), or is it leaking into the crankcase (via the rings)? Listening at the throttle body (preferably with the throttle blade open), at the tailpipe(s), or at the filler neck helps to narrow the cause ... valves not seating properly, or an issue with the rings.
All of the aforementioned tests and observations provide individual clues as to what is going on inside of your engine. It is your job to play detective and assemble these clues into a coherent picture. Granted, this may be somewhat challenging if you have multiple problems, or if two different problems have similar symptoms. But, be patient, go about things methodically, update us periodically and ask questions. There is no such thing as a stupid question, when you are learning."






https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...catch-can.html
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Posted by another member:
"First of all, it sounds like you had some invasive engine work performed. Was everything reassembled properly? The same goes for the catch can; you wouldn't be the first, nor the last to make a mistake. It's easy to do.
Piston Rings: Worn piston rings will allow oil past the rings and into the combustion chamber, where it is burned. Failed piston rings can cause blowby (where combustion gasses blow past the rings and into the crankcase) which can easily overwhelm the PCV system and pressurize the crankcase. If you remove the oil filler cap, this will typically look like an old time steam locomotive puffing away out of the valve cover. I haven't seen one in decades, but you used to be able to get a tool that measures the amount of air escaping through the filler neck, in order to determine if it is excessive. If it is excessive, however, there likely won't be any doubt in your mind, as you can typically also hear the puffing sound accompanying the smoke escaping from the filler neck. Note that the engine may not idle with the filler cap removed, as this causes a substantial vacuum leak, so you may need to give it a wee bit of throttle to get it to idle. Note also that you may see oil leaks due to the pressurization of the crankcase.
Valve Stem Seals: Failed valve stem seals will allow oil past the valve guide and into the combustion chamber, where it is burned. Worn valve guides may prevent the valves from sealing properly and may also allow the valve stem to rock back and forth, more than the valve stem seal can cope with. If you have a camshaft with extremely high lift, the valve guides can be subjected to excessive wear in a very short time span.
PCV System: When the PCV system fails, it is common for oil to begin seeping from every possible seal and gasket on the engine. Safely, get the car up in the air and have a good look underneath. The lack of functioning crankcase ventilation system can also turn your oil into sludge in only a couple thousand miles! There are many reasons why the PCV system may fail. On a +/- 20 year old car, I would start with the hoses. Rust may be forever, but not rubber. Due to age, heat cycles and exposure to oil vapor, rubber hoses may get hard and crack, or they may get soft and suck shut closed under intake manifold vacuum. Either situation is obviously a serious problem.
Some PCV valves have a metered orifice and a check ball with metered passages, Other PCV valves only have a metered orifice. It should go without saying that if yours has a check ball, that ball should rattle when you shake the valve. Either type of valve can get clogged with crud, effectively disabling the PCV system. As already mentioned, LS1 & LS6 engines have a liquid vapor separator located in a somewhat unconventional spot ... the valley of the engine. These liquid vapor separators have a poor reputation for allowing excessive oil into the intake manifold, via the PCV system, where the oil is eventually burned in the combustion chamber. And, that's if these liquid vapor separators are working properly. If they have failed, then the flood gates could potentially open, pouring generous amounts of oil into the intake.
The "When in doubt, renew throughout" strategy is both costly and time consuming. Unless you see an obvious cause to your problem, always start by checking the basic mechanical condition of the engine. This includes both a dry and wet compression test and a leak down test. If you have low compression, then you have a mechanical problem that needs to be addressed before proceeding. If the compression jumps up after adding a squirt of oil into the cylinder, then this suggests a ring problem. A leakdown test gauge helps to quantify the amount of leakage, but just as importantly, where is the pressure leaking to? Is it leaking into the intake manifold (via the intake valve), is it leaking into the exhaust system (past the exhaust valve), or is it leaking into the crankcase (via the rings)? Listening at the throttle body (preferably with the throttle blade open), at the tailpipe(s), or at the filler neck helps to narrow the cause ... valves not seating properly, or an issue with the rings.
All of the aforementioned tests and observations provide individual clues as to what is going on inside of your engine. It is your job to play detective and assemble these clues into a coherent picture. Granted, this may be somewhat challenging if you have multiple problems, or if two different problems have similar symptoms. But, be patient, go about things methodically, update us periodically and ask questions. There is no such thing as a stupid question, when you are learning."












Last edited by C5MSG2004Vert; Mar 20, 2024 at 01:15 PM.






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