I recently let two people drive my car, one in a parking lot and one on lower speed city streets. Both had trouble reaching the clutch since the seat doesn't move much (Corbeaus) and they were shorter than me. Both times they complained the clutch was strange.

When I got in the car, the pedal was stuck to the floor. I used my foot to pull it back into the normal position and the clutch works normally just like it always has, no noise, no vibrations, all smooth and normal.

Anyone else experienced this over center pedal problem.?

 

Some interesting reading about it in this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rn-spring.html

 

Quite a number of ‘clutch pedal stuck to floor’ threads over time. The common bandaids are replacing some of the clutch fluid — the ‘Ranger’ thing — and trying a new primary cylinder, whether GM or Tick.
A true flush and bleed of the clutch is reported to provide some improvement, but borders impossible for many. The usual conclusion ends up being a new clutch. Not fun.

 

My clutch pedal goes to the floor when feathering the clutch up and down multiple times without ever letting the pedal all the way up. For instance my driveway is about a 12 degree incline. To slowly bring the car up the driveway and into the garage I need to feather the clutch in/out a few times to control the car, as I don't want to be doing 10 mph while entering the garage. The C5 just doesn't like going less than 10 mph. After a few times feathering the clutch when the car is finally in the garage the clutch will stick on the floor.

I read a thread somewhere (can't remember where now) that there's a relief valve or hole of some kind at the top of the cylinder. I didn't fully understand the thread. But by not letting the clutch pedal all the way up during multiple strokes of the pedal the cylinder gradually and eventually loses enough fluid to stop working. Whatever is happening, I can say that I have never experienced the problem when I focus and letting the clutch pedal all the way up on every cycle. It's just inconvenient in stop & go traffic or when bringing the car into the garage.

 

I've seen lots of those threads and my memory says they occur when driving hard and shifting quickly. Not the case here so not sure if old fluid is the case. 10 years ago I did a complete flush and that was a PITA on jack stands. Did the Ranger after the first occurance.

 

10 years ago you did a complete flush. Since then how many times have you done any preventative maintenance like the "Ranger Method"? If ou haven't done anything since 10 yrs ago the problem is more than likely fluid thar is contaminated and broken down. What color is your fluid now? If it's not clear start with doing the Ranger flush with new fluid..

I've had pedal stick on three different clutch setups over 25 years. The first time was stock clutch not holding new power from H/C/I upgrade and it glazed over. Second was an LS7 clutch which if memory serves also glazed over after another H/C upgrade. I was able to return the pedal with the back of my foot on both instances and get pressure back.

The third was in 2020 when driving in traffic on the GSP on a 95 degree day. The clutch upgrade at that time and still is a Centerforce DF which was done in 2008 but only had about 25k miles and a few track visits. But my fluid was a few years old and i hadnt flushed it in at least 3 years. Which I definitely know better, but got careless/lazy. I barely made it to the next exit and driving 650/568 whp and wtq without a properly functioning clutch was a butt puckering experience even at stop and go traffic speeds. The pedal was dead. Like a limp boiled spaghetti noodle. And would not return with the back of my foot.

Made the next exit and went to an Autozone for the items required for a parking lot maintenance Ranger flush. My fluid was as black as tar. Did the flush and waited out traffic to attempt my ride home. Testing the clutch on the ride home with fresh fluid I did at least a dozen WOT pulls and clutch behaved as it should. The legacy fluid was shot (contaminated/boiled down) and the cause of the issue.

Same Centerforce, slave, master, throwout, to this day, but new fluid via a Ranger flush every summer since and I've been fine for the last 3 years..

 

I've done the Ranger thing every other year at the same time I flush the brake system. I don't really believe in it since the fluid in the slave doesn't get changed but something is better than nothing. Going to look at the return spring and see if it is intact.

 

Agreed. The Ranger Method definitely worked in my most recent case. But it's only going to work if it's just a boiled/contaminated fluid issue. If it's a parts failure nothing but replacement parts are going to help. At least you tried the cheap/easy stuff first. Lingenfelter has a heavy duty helper spring that some have used successfully. I bought one many years ago but never used it. So can't speak first hand on its effectiveness.
Good luck!

 

How many times do you have to do the ranger to get clear fluid. I’ve done it 3 times now and still dirty
thanks

 

Just keep going until it's clear. It varies for everyone. But the first time in a few years it took a few rounds for mine to show clear. I wasn't counting but it was definitely more than 3. Likely 7 or 8.

 

ok thank you I’ll keep checking on it

 

I do the Ranger method but also use this method. I have not had any clutch peddle issues.

 

Apologies for missing it before, but what on earth were you thinking, letting not one but two other ‘people’ drive your car?
Heck, it’s hard finding two people who have a concept of friction zone.

 

Pretty neat procedure. I have one of the stronger clutch return springs laying around. Used it for a year and did the Ranger method as well before I had the clutch and all the extras replaced. Slave cylinder and throwout bearing were crusty being 20 yrs old. What a difference.

 

We really need to stop calling a fluid exchange the "Ranger" method. It's pretty useless in my experience if you're trying to solve a problem. OP is your return spring still intact?

 

Just because it didn't work for you doesn't mean it doesn't work. And the fluid exchange is commonly referred to as the "Ranger Method" for many years around here because Ranger took the time to experiment with this and has provided more guidance on this forum then most. He was the first to establish the issues with the clutch fluid when dealerships were claiming the fluid wasn't the issue. Ranger created video tutorials and step by step write-ups on this years before you were even a member. He's had literally hundreds of succesful track passes on OEM clutch components using his suggested procedure and maintenance intervals.

So you can call it what you like. I'll stick to "Ranger Method" to at the very least not dis the guy that invested time, enegery, money to have fluid tests done, to then share his findings and successful treatment strategies with the forum almost 20 years ago.

 

PS...this is exactly why I and many others kept to and will keep referring to the fluid exchange as the "Ranger Method".

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...al-issues.html

 

I'm aware of all of this, but you're vastly over-glamorizing a fluid exchange and making it out to be the end-all-be-all fix when in reality it's just taking the lazy way out. The proper fix is a remote bleeder line and no, a fluid exchange is not a viable alternative for this. I do occasional fluid exchanges preventatively, but never to fix a problem or to try to clean up the fluid. That gunk in the slave stays in the slave, no amount of reservoir exchanges will remove it no matter what you believe.

 

Oh stop it! No one has once refered to it as an "end all be all fix". You are grossly overexaggerating. Even in this very thread no one refers to it as you're suggesting. Nor is anyone myself included "over glamourizing" anything. I've personally experienced the "lazy fluid exchange", as you refer to it, solving my limp pedal issue just a few years ago. And all my clutch components remain the same right now, with the exception of fresh fluid the past three Summers, just via a simple fluid exchange. Literally thousands have experienced the same.

 

You may notice that I have removed some of the posts in this thread. Enough of the petty bickering and name calling. If you have something to contribute to the OPs original question, carry on. If you just want to argue and call each other names, please put an end to it. That is against the rules and subject to sanctions. Whether the procedure goes by the Ranger Method or something else, or if there is a better way to do things and that is pointed out, the key point is does it help the OP solve his problem with his car.

Please take stick to the topic and offer viable solutions. Thanks for your cooperation.