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Hi. ... I'm confused here do l need to put back the PVC valve even when I upgrade the valley cover to LS6 (12577927) ??? Some they say yes some they say no , some videos in the YouTube yes some videos no. ??? So what ldo now ?
[QUOTE=Prop Joe;1607759970]Depending on the year of the block, you may need to clearance/modify the block to allow installation. Not a big deal, have tools ready, and just cover everything with tape, towels, rags....
Before. Area needs to be removed on earlier blocks. I used a whizz wheel to make a couple cuts. then went after it with a chisel. Crude but effective.[/QUOTE.
Can l ask you what's your block engine number 241 or 243 ?
Depending on the year of the block, you may need to clearance/modify the block to allow installation. Not a big deal, have tools ready, and just cover everything with tape, towels, rags....
Before. Area needs to be removed on earlier blocks. I used a whizz wheel to make a couple cuts. then went after it with a chisel. Crude but effective.[/QUOTE.
Can l ask you what's your block engine number 241 or 243 ?
I de burred it and never took another pic. I apologize for my digression.
Not to split hairs, but deburring is great for cleaning up the edges…but a nice radius at surfaces that meet from a cut (or over-cutting) will help prevent crack propagation.
For all the kiddos joining the chat, it might be good to explain exactly what you achieved by replacing the valley cover and deleting the PCV valve. Especially since you had to cut a chuck out of your engine block to achieve the goal.
These "improved" valley covers are a GM effort to keep oil out of the intake. I have one in my car, still got oil in the intake, but seems much less. YMMV
So previous to this, were you consuming oil at a consistent rate? For example: previous to the valley cover installation, you were consuming Y quarts of oil per X miles, and after the valley cover installation, the consumption was reduced to Y quarts of oil per X miles.
Originally Posted by Prop Joe
I believe that is the sprue for the block during casting early years and not structural in any way. Later years blocks without the sprue there along that valley gasket surface are cast to allow more airflow down low near the crank, as well as missing that sprue.
I saw it here 1st. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
Whether that geometry is structural or not does not matter if if sharp cuts, over cutting, or sharp corners are left without a radius or blending. I know that 95% of guys are ok with the hack method, but 5% still like to know the possible pitfalls.....and best practice overall.
Good old "ls1howto". I remember when that site first surfaced....the creator certainly knows no shame.