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dot3 or dot4 fluid?

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Old May 27, 2024 | 06:13 PM
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Default dot3 or dot4 fluid?

Was going to flush my brakes, looking for a corvette specialist, and he said he uses Dot 4 (as opposed to my car which says Dot3), + I think he said 'vacuum' sealing it or something like that?
Is dot4 "better", any pros/cons to using that over the dot 3?

Thanks!
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Old May 27, 2024 | 06:49 PM
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As I understand it, the primary difference between them is that 4 has a higher boiling point.
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Old May 27, 2024 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by redzg
As I understand it, the primary difference between them is that 4 has a higher boiling point.
I'm not sure what significance that is - other than it means I could brake harder if I wanted to? But both are fine? Thanks!
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Old May 27, 2024 | 07:48 PM
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Take your pic, just don't use dot 5
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Old May 27, 2024 | 07:59 PM
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Can’t go wrong with 4 Personally I’m using Motul 600RBF

Not a Real Race Spec. Fluid. … But good enough for occasional “Spirited” operations

Find a Real Vette shop that knows your system and can perform a Complete ABS Bleed though the OBD interface

this will flush all the old fluid and high moisture content out of the system…

These cars are over 20 years old. And Brake systems are very often left to No Real Service Ever…


Take a look at your Master Cylinder. Likely it is full of black brown residue

if so, Now is the Time to replace it, Before the abs Flush

Inexpensive enough …And you can be Confident the the system is Truly Clear

Then Keep up with it and flush every year or two depending on climate

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Last edited by nitromainia; May 27, 2024 at 08:04 PM.
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Old May 27, 2024 | 08:37 PM
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Like stated above. It really doesn’t matter unless you’re doing HPDE (road course stuff). Those that do canyon runs are just braking the law. Dot 3 or Dot 4 will both work on the street. Since I do an HPDE once or twice a year, I chose hawk HP600 dot 4.
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Old May 27, 2024 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nitromainia
Can’t go wrong with 4 Personally I’m using Motul 600RBF

Not a Real Race Spec. Fluid. … But good enough for occasional “Spirited” operations

Find a Real Vette shop that knows your system and can perform a Complete ABS Bleed though the OBD interface

this will flush all the old fluid and high moisture content out of the system…

These cars are over 20 years old. And Brake systems are very often left to No Real Service Ever…


Take a look at your Master Cylinder. Likely it is full of black brown residue

if so, Now is the Time to replace it, Before the abs Flush

Inexpensive enough …And you can be Confident the the system is Truly Clear

Then Keep up with it and flush every year or two depending on climate

USA-1

Save The Wave
It's funny - I really didn't do anything with the brake (flushing) system - until I had it serviced at one mechanic, and I'm (assuming) they checked the brake fluid, broke the cap - didn't tell me, so I was driving and smelled something wierd...
I ended up replacing the gasket (purchased a new gasket), but guess it would have gotten moisture/etc into the system...

I recently replaced my brakes/rotors - but realized the brakes still feel 'spongy' - so figured i should do a brake flush.
One guy who I think is good & reasonably priced doesn't have the proper lift equipment for a C5 (so was a bit nervous about doing the lift), so was 'shopping' around for another shop to do it right...

One shop I found (via google) 'seemed' to know what he was talking about (they have a webpage saying they do service corvettes), and said they use Dot 4 - as well as I think he said they do the 'pressurization' (I'm assuming he meant the power bleeder type of thing?)

Anyways, just wanted to verify that sounded good/legit, because yes, I guess I'd like to get the brakes lines flush (especially because the '2' previous shops ago broke the seal & didn't tell me (it did seem to be a worn gasket, but he didn't bother telling me that the fluid was leaking after he loosened it)...

Question though - does it make a huge difference if I replace the master cylinder (as opposed to using the existing one?) You are probably right - it probably does have some gunk - is that something the shop would be able to clean out as part of replacing/flushing the fluid?

Thanks!

Last edited by memememe; May 27, 2024 at 08:55 PM.
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Old May 27, 2024 | 09:53 PM
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“Proper equipment” can mean a pressure bleeding system — though even today pumping the break pedal works — but should really include an interactive OBD tool, capable of activating the ant-lock actuators.
A problem with new primary cylinders is that they tend to be lower quality than original. In years gone by, it was easy to get a seal kit to restore the primary, but danged if I find them now.
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Old May 28, 2024 | 10:29 AM
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Thoughts on this? I've just recently seen "Max" on the shelves....


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Old May 28, 2024 | 11:53 AM
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That product is probably fine for what you’re going to use your car for. It did not list wet boiling point

prestone dot 4
dry boiling point 505 degrees

hawk HP600
dry boiling point 575 degrees
wet boiling point 375 degrees

prestone is cheaper, go for it.
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Old May 28, 2024 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jjc508520
Thoughts on this? I've just recently seen "Max" on the shelves....

Looks like BNG (bold, new graphics) from here.
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Old May 28, 2024 | 03:36 PM
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I am using Amsoil DOT4 in my C5 for brakes/clutch.
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Old May 29, 2024 | 12:53 AM
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Thought I read somewhere most of this stuff is made in one or two factories but bottled under different names. Could be wrong but thought was Union Carbide?
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Old May 29, 2024 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RC81
Thought I read somewhere most of this stuff is made in one or two factories but bottled under different names.
Very likely. There was another discussion a while back about the difference between synthetic and non-synthetic, which I found amusing since dot 3 and 4 are both made from polyethylene glycol, which is synthesized from ethylene oxide - a gas that is the by-product of some other manufacturing process. Long story short, by definition all polyethylene glycol is synthetic.
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