I put 500 miles on the car since buying it. Went to back out of garage in reverse and right after it started to move It sounded like gear whirring, grinding. No noise until then.Scheduled appt at dealership. Told them to rip it out and replace all the bearings and bushings. I will keep everyone up to date on cost and final issue.

 

yeah i figured close to 4k all said and done. i want all the bearings replaced that they can get to easy enough when they have it a part...throw out, Torque tube, pilot bearing blah blah blah. dont care. didnt buy it to sit and want to minimize chance of having to go in again for a while if possible

 

No troubleshooting required if you replace everything

Mods....move this thread to General

 

My bad. Just researched a lot on here and knew a lot of these issues. wasnt aure to put it in tech or general.

 

Put a bleeder in.....

 

great advice already installed one with the rxt clutch. but to be honest....no idea how to use it

 

You’ve already changed the clutch, but didn’t evaluate the torque tube while it was out? And the pilot bearing was new with the clutch, no?
Don’t mean to be disrespectful, but it reads as though you’ve given the dealer a blank check — and dealers already tend that way on their own.

 

The car had and rxt twin disc installed by Modern Muscle at 19k miles (new pilot, slave, throw out). I have all the receipts. Car has 24,900 now. I wasnt the owner when they had it done or i would have wrote Modern Muscle the "blank check". If the previous owner had....i may not have had to go in and have it done myself? No disrespect taken. I believe in all opinions even ones we may not want to hear. Helps us take in the big picture. 👍

 

Im mechanically sound. I was an F16/A10 mechanic and raised in junk yards pulling parts for my old man...i just dont do the technical stuff like trans, motor, clutch...dont have the tools or time to devote. Im not a blank check fan i promise but time is money and im not paying for this labor again anytime soon if i can prevent it. i post up the bill (unless it is too embarrassing lol)

 

I diagnosed it and having the dealer double checking. It is text book pilot bearing sound though. Im guessing they hit it going in on install or packed a self lubing bearing full of grease ( this subject is debatable i guess). Car runs like a top other than the high pitched grind on the last inch of clutch engagement. push the clutch in quite as a mouse. quite like a mouse every where else. just that split second of engagement and its a pretty specific sound. Once your heard one before they are pretty tale tale.

 

nobody:

zwoah6: I have a problem, but don’t worry, I have the solution. I’ll let you know how much it costs

nobody: ???

 

Sorry for posting i guess? When using the forum i found a LOT of threads about pilot bearings so i was going to share information on the repair. I wasnt looking for advice. i put this in the wrong thread which has already been called out. no need to be an butthole about it. Could go to the civic forum for those comments.

 

Actually I was being facetious based on the nature of your post.

 

Sure the sound isn't the clutch? I have the rst clutch and it is noisy at idle and can be intermittent

 

you guys are a lot more knowledgeable than myself. i thought (hope) it isnt pilot bearing but thats why i wrote this thread. i will record the noise and post before i drop it off just wanting to make sure if anyone else encounters this i can document the issue. maybe it will help someone down the road. i will post up all the details as they come in.

 

the chevy dealer, bergstrom in manitowoc wi said that "it has an after market shifter and clutch thats where your noise is coming from". first it has a shift ****...stock shifter and hasnt made the noise before. they still say normal. i say no clucking way. i need to improve my garage and just do my own work like most of you guys. hard to trust anyone now days. the bill was 202.00 by the way for them to drive it and tell me that. surprised it wasnt more tbh.

 

WTF This just happen to my wife. 2021 Blazer. Yr and half ago she ran out of gas. I said did you see the warning light that comes on and she said no the needle isn't touching the empty line. There was space between. . She said no. I gave her an ear because when she sits at a light she plays scrabble and didn't see the light till it died.. Yes i know she's one of them but i gave up on that to stop her. just happen last month again. She said the needle is an 1/8 from empty. I said take a pick. And sure enough it was. So i checked the common problems with 2021 and sure enough fuel pump are known to go bad. Ok, Brought it to chevy dealer and it had 3 days left of warranty so good to go. Got a call and they said we ran out of gas. So we told them that the empty light does not work and it does not go the empty line. Get a call back, They said when the key is turned the fuel light coming on. I told them of course on its going to come on. But the low sensor doesn't tell the light to go on. We told him take the car home drive it till you runs out of gas. the next day he called and said its fine. We said did you run it dry he said no but close. we got in the car . By this time we wasted 300 bucks on rent a car and got the *** out of there. I told her just fill up at 1/4 tank. But back to op. They charged 203 bucks plus gas. and she missed a days work, so more money there.

We wre ging to push the issue on this incompetent mechanic ,but rental and work again. we let it go.

 

Yeah..thats crap. Thats why i like to find a local mechanic that i can bring all my stuff or do it myself if possible. I have yet to have a good experience at a dealership. Sorry you had to go through that!

 

From your description I doubt it's the pilot bearing. It would be complaining any time the engine & trans input shaft are spinning at different speeds, incl. neutral.
https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/m...t-bearing.html

 

hey thank you for the information good sir 👍