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It actually has been having trouble starting lately. But its really strange. It'll crank but not start and then the second try everytime will fire right up. I will definitely have to get it scoped it looks like.
When it is only cranking look at your Tach and see if it moves…if not you may have a bad crank sensor…or if you have the scan tool see if you are seeing an RPM signal while cranking…with bad crank sensor you will have no spark or injector pulse !!..a great video on misfires..grab a few beers and you and your brother watch !!
It actually has been having trouble starting lately. But its really strange. It'll crank but not start and then the second try everytime will fire right up. I will definitely have to get it scoped it looks like.
The crank sensor is also new as well. Possible I forgot to mention that one
its not far fetched trust me. Like I said we had a defective oem cam sensor too
Well thinking it may be something like a bad coil pack ground (C107) which is located on the back side of the left cylinder head…if you can back probe terminal A (black/white wire) on the connector which is located in the middle of the cylinder head on both sides of the engine and run a wire to a clean ground from both sides…it’s called a bypass test…if that ground has high resistance you will not see the correct current which each coil pack produces…around 4 amps…just trying to throw out some things you can try if not using any diagnostic equipment.
Well thinking it may be something like a bad coil pack ground (C107) which is located on the back side of the left cylinder head…if you can back probe terminal A (black/white wire) on the connector which is located in the middle of the cylinder head on both sides of the engine and run a wire to a clean ground from both sides…it’s called a bypass test…if that ground has high resistance you will not see the correct current which each coil pack produces…around 4 amps…just trying to throw out some things you can try if not using any diagnostic equipment.
I’ll be trying the back probe tomorrow. I did put all new delphi coils on when we did the initial tune up, but then again it was missing before we did that.
also I ran the scanner during the crank no start at it had read around 180 rpm before I stopped cranking.
For a couple of week prior to us unleashing the parts cannon, It would also not like to start when it was warm. It would mainly crank and stall unless you kept the rpms up at around 1000 for about 15 seconds. it would also have trouble catching the idle if you were to rev and let off.
Seemingly those are not an issue anymore though but maybe they are related?
