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Control arm bolt has no where to go. It keeps hitting the tank. Am I crazy? Didn't see this being discussed anywhere.
I see the slot in the bracket that holds the arm and the bolt but based on how my car is configured it still wont work. Because of the metal in the way. Why tf do i not see this on others cars?
Rear control arm bolt too long to be removed...
Last edited by VetteNoob91; Jul 4, 2024 at 07:03 PM.
The only way to remove that bolt is to lower the subframe.
I knew someone was gonna say that. Only reason I wanted to remove the arm is because the ball joint won't seat properly and wanted to take a hydraulic press to it. Gonna maybe try to heat the partially seated ball with a torch and move it the rest of the way through. If that works, I don't even need to remove the control arm.
Why am I drawing a blank when I did my AMT camber kit, I don't remember dropping the subframe to remove this bolt...I also did not cut the bolt since I still have all my OEM bolts sitting on the workbench.
Why am I drawing a blank when I did my AMT camber kit, I don't remember dropping the subframe to remove this bolt...I also did not cut the bolt since I still have all my OEM bolts sitting on the workbench.
I think perhaps my car has a manufacturing defect? I've not heard of another person with this issue.
I managed to get the ball joint in the lower control arm by freezing a brand new ball joint and using hand tools to slowly but forcefully press it into place. Still not solution for that lower control arm bolt besides dropping the cradle and all that comes with that...Not thrilled about it.
Maybe trying to remove the rear bolt fully, then pulling the arm out of the cradle and will rotate the front bolt inward possibly allowing you to remove it?
Maybe trying to remove the rear bolt fully, then pulling the arm out of the cradle and will rotate the front bolt inward possibly allowing you to remove it?
That's an interesting idea, but the bolt still had a ways to go, and even if I managed to turn it in it would get caught in the slit between the metal and the fuel tank. It's the strangest thing that I haven't seen this discussed elsewhere.
Since I was able to get the ball joint in, I abandoned my plans to remove the control arm. Frustrating because I wanted to change the bushings. Not gonna happen this time.
Really appreciate your suggestion, but I don't see any other way to tackle this in the future other than to drop the cradle. Oh well, will probably need one of them fancy shmancy RPM transmissions before long anyways. 😂😭
Do you think you would have access if you removed the fuel tank metal shield? It's held on by 4-5 bolts IIRC.
Dropping the rear cradle isn't THAT bad as it's only 4 bolts. You could loosen the cradle bolts until the last couple of threads and hope you gain enough room. Just be mindful of any brake lines/wires attached to the frame.
When I replaced all the bushing in mine four years ago (along with a whole bunch of other upgrades), I dropped the whole rear subframe out of the car with the lower controls still attached. Now I have photos showing the subframe back in position without the lower control arm reattached and later photos with the control arm in place and the bolt (in question) with its head facing toward the front of the car. I may have removed the fuel tank shields (I do remember it being dirty up under there) and lowered the subframe down with the nuts at the end of the studs. But to tell you the truth, I had the subframe in an out of the car at least four times during the reassembly process due to all the things I was doing and forgetting to do in the correct order. Not much help I know, but it's been way too many beers ago.
Do you think you would have access if you removed the fuel tank metal shield? It's held on by 4-5 bolts IIRC.
Dropping the rear cradle isn't THAT bad as it's only 4 bolts. You could loosen the cradle bolts until the last couple of threads and hope you gain enough room. Just be mindful of any brake lines/wires attached to the frame.
I thought I'd also have to disconnect the transmission from the torque tube or something like that.
When I replaced all the bushing in mine four years ago (along with a whole bunch of other upgrades), I dropped the whole rear subframe out of the car with the lower controls still attached. Now I have photos showing the subframe back in position without the lower control arm reattached and later photos with the control arm in place and the bolt (in question) with its head facing toward the front of the car. I may have removed the fuel tank shields (I do remember it being dirty up under there) and lowered the subframe down with the nuts at the end of the studs. But to tell you the truth, I had the subframe in an out of the car at least four times during the reassembly process due to all the things I was doing and forgetting to do in the correct order. Not much help I know, but it's been way too many beers ago.
You sound like you know what you're doing with this stuff. I may end up trying to remove that fuel shield. Eventually ill drop the subframe im sure, but was hoping to avoid all that this go around. Fortunately was able to get the ball joint that had been giving me issues pressed in by some miracle.
I thought I'd also have to disconnect the transmission from the torque tube or something like that.
No, you just have to unbolt the transmission mount from the subframe 2 nuts, and support it with a jack, although it can sag pretty low, if you let the transmission hang too low you will damage your fire wall.
Can't remove control arm bolt
