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Electrical Melt Down

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Old Feb 1, 2003 | 08:25 PM
  #1  
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Default Electrical Melt Down

Okay I went into the store and everything was okay. Came back out got into car tried to start and nothing, I had locks, no windows, dash lit up had headlights no heater. It had to be towed to shop, any ideas?? Battery is 100% …. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
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Old Feb 1, 2003 | 09:59 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

sure your battery is 100%??? sounds like a battery or loose conection, ground may be???..... Good luck keep, us posted
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Old Feb 1, 2003 | 10:05 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Bill Vett)

sure your battery is 100%??? sounds like a battery or loose conection, ground may be???..... Good luck keep, us posted
Or maybe a "leaker". Since there is no primary power, I agree. Sounds like battery.

Hmmm, maybe fuse(s) and/or fusible link. Let us know what you find.

Robert


[Modified by Tx99FRC, 9:06 PM 2/1/2003]
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Old Feb 2, 2003 | 10:57 AM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Tx99FRC)

Could be battery or bad ground.Dave S. Xtreme
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Old Feb 3, 2003 | 04:06 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

Worse that I thought, it’s an intermittent problem………………………

The shop opened the car door this morning and the alarm went off, they reset it and everything worked. Checked all grounds, connections, battery and battery cables and everything was okay, naturally no codes were set. Just sitting made it work again, the only movement was pushing it off the flat bed into the shop

Any more ideas? Has anyone had similar problem ?

I know this will be a nightmare deal and will occur again….
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Old Feb 3, 2003 | 05:26 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

Hmmmmm, air conditioning on? As many have said, could be a bad ground, or a bad computer. However, one more thing to check would be to see if there is any standing water up in the air conditioning system. If it leaks down onto the BCM because of a stopped up drain pipe (common), very strange things happen (I know - happened to me). Good luck, intermittant problems are the worst...
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Old Feb 4, 2003 | 04:36 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

If it happens again, check things like the turn signals, radio, wipers and anything else that is controlled by the ignition switch. Everything you described is a constant hot devise and not an ignition switched devise. If the radio works, but the turn signals do not, then it could the ign terminal on the ignition switch could be breaking contact. If neither works, it could be the switch or a IGN relay.
Joe
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Old Feb 5, 2003 | 03:08 PM
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (1960LS6)

:iagree:

By George I think he's got it! This seems very likely to me.
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Old Feb 5, 2003 | 04:26 PM
  #9  
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

Thank's guys looking at all that and have added the security modelu to the list. I HATE THIS, You know the next no start will be when in a hard to get to place

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
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Old Feb 5, 2003 | 06:09 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

While the pass key system will keep one from starting, it will not disable anything that is ign switch controlled. If you have added an alarm or something so you can remotely control the start, windows or something funky like that, then maybe it is a cause of a break in the ign circuit, but the stock pass key should not effect the problem you have explained.
Joe
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Old Feb 7, 2003 | 12:32 PM
  #11  
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

Power comes in on a red wire from the battery to the Instrument Panel Electrical Center. From that Junction, it gets distributed to the IGN 1 (#48) and IGN 2 (#45) fuses. Both are 60 amp MAXI fuses. If both fuses have power, then you can check fuse #9, 10, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20, 21 & 25 all will be hot if the key is on. Fuse # 11, 14 & 22 will be hot with the key in the start position. If you find that fuse # 18 is not hot with the key on and 11, 14 & 22 are not hot with the key in the start position then check the two red wires going into the ignition switch. If both have power, then check the orange wire and yellow wire coming out of the ignition switch. The orange wire should be hot with the key on and the yellow should be hot with the key in the start position. If they are not hot, then it is either a bad switch or the one of the red wires is not making good contact to the switch. Also, the IGN 2 fuse (#45) is the fuse that feeds the red wire that feeds these circuits and the connections to it may also be a possible weak spot.
The other side of the ignition switch controls the rest of the fuses I listed. Fuse 13, 15, 16, 20 & 25 are supplied power from the pink wire coming out of the ignition switch and fuse 9, 10 & 21 are supplied power by the brown wire coming out of the ignition switch. The IGN 1 fuse (#48) is the fuse that feeds the red wire that feeds these circuits and the connections to it may also be a possible weak spot.
I hope this gets you in the right direction.

Joe



[Modified by 1960LS6, 11:46 AM 2/7/2003]
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Old Feb 7, 2003 | 07:07 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: Electrical Melt Down (Rick-M)

Thanks to all, checked everything and all seemed okay. Cleaned, tightened, polished etc.... Back on the Road for 3 days now with out problem.

It will happen again the question is when ????

THANK YOU........ :)


[Modified by Rick-M, 6:07 PM 2/7/2003]
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