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Door Lock Question

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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 12:31 PM
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Default Door Lock Question

My Driver's side door lock doesn't "lock" under power. I can use it manually with the tumbler from outside or the flap by the door handle from inside. It will unluck under power from the Fob, Drivers door switch or Passenger's switch.

This is stumping me and a few other. Common knowledge is relays go bad. Yup, I got suckered in, ordered one, replaced it. I got what I asked for, it didn't fix it and I am out the $20 for not doing testing. At that point, I paid attention to what was going on. Relays click for both lock and unlock from any command for operation (Fob, DD, or PD). I checked and I have power at the plug for the motor. Then I checked the switch power in the harness, not using a sperate ground, but checking the circuit through the harness. I see voltage with switching polarity.

So, I ordered a door lock actuator. Swapped it in, and same thing. So, what do you think may be going on here.
on another site I was asked for DIC codes, there are none. Drove the car over 200 miles yesterday and there are zero other electrical issues with the car. All other functions work properly... even the blinkers .

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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 02:17 PM
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From: Bugtussle
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19
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Did you only replace one of the two relays?

I just went through this. My thread is here.
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MACE_Hardware
Did you only replace one of the two relays?

I just went through this. My thread is here.
Correct... I have more on the way.

To your point though, if power is at the motor, switching voltage, and you can audibly hear the click... what would a relay change? I felt I jumped the gun replacing one relay by assuming the common problem is the problem, but as of what I am seeing, there seems to be no reason to further suspect relays. I see you mentioned a 5 seconds, but I don't see that on the unlock side that functions. I will do your hotwire of the actuator to confirm.

Replacing a relay was a no biggie. If it indeed fixes the issue here, I would just say there is something the testing is missing. I assume I replaced the "lock" relay, but to be honest. I didn't find what I felt was a definitive answer.

I feel I am suffering from what I have learned in the past.. test first, buy parts 2nd. I should know better by now.

Thanks

Last edited by KyleF; Jul 29, 2024 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by KyleF
I assume I replaced the "lock" relay
This post has a photo with the relays labeled.
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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dads2kconvertible
This post has a photo with the relays labeled.
That was a good thread. The scope trace was consistent with what I was seeing on my meter with a flash reading but then nothing.
FWIW, I got my relays from Amazon.
Three clicks and <i>POOF</i> they were at my door the next day. Three clicks and POOF they were at my door the next day.
Also gave me an excuse to buy the
soldering station I've been wanting. soldering station I've been wanting.

But no worries, my buddy will reimburse the relays...

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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dads2kconvertible
This post has a photo with the relays labeled.
Awesome, thanks for that.

Unfortunately, that is the one I replace.

I don't have a nice scope like that, just a basic DVM and I see the momentary pulse.

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Old Jul 29, 2024 | 06:41 PM
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If you don't have a scan tool I'd probably try @maceHardware's technique from their thread and apply power directly to the actuator motor, like the door lock module should do if it were working properly. At least you can rule out the motor that way.
Troubleshooting chart from a 2000 service manual.

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