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Hey all, I'm in the middle of a balancer install. Got the old one off, started putting the new one (PBU1117SS10) on, which leads me to a couple of questions....
1. I heated the balancer up in the oven to around 170. It started ok but now I have to crank on it to keep moving it towards the engine. Is that normal?
2. In my haste after the balancer came out of the oven, I forgot to put some RTV in the keyway. Is it absolutely necessary to fill that keyway? If so, do I need to pull the balancer to fill it or can I use a little plastic syringe to fill it? If I do need to pull it are the threads whatever typical puller kits use?
Thanks for the super fast reply! I really appreciate it. It's like 3/4 of the way on. I was too excited to get the new one on so I rushed lol. So much for it going perfectly. Gonna take tomorrow off to leisurely work on it and get it running.
Either way take the old bolt and seat the balancer with it. As long as you are past half way it will seat when pre torquing it.
I've had many where I swore it was down all the way seated when jamming it on hot and then when we went to do the initial torque the balancer would move some more.
Yep, picked up an ARP bolt. I'm using some Amazon special install tool. It's ugly but I put a little oil on it to protect the threads from galling and it's worked ok so far. I heard using the old bolt to squeeze the balancer back on was a no-no but I didn't really understand why.
Yep, picked up an ARP bolt. I'm using some Amazon special install tool. It's ugly but I put a little oil on it to protect the threads from galling and it's worked ok so far. I heard using the old bolt to squeeze the balancer back on was a no-no but I didn't really understand why.
You don't want to use an old bolt to install a balancer from scratch, but you do want to use an old bolt to pre torque or seat the balancer in place after it's been pulled on with a good install tool. It isn't 100% necessary but is pretty common practice in the LS world.
Ah, ok. Makes sense. The threads on mine looked pretty good so I will definitely pre torque it with the old bolt. What are you thoughts on pinning? I plan on keeping the car NA but it will see some track use. I have a pin kit, but the parallel/front type. Can I pin it through the keyway on my balancer, thus negating the need for RTV? Or will the bit catch and break on the sharp machined corner?
Hey all, I'm in the middle of a balancer install. Got the old one off, started putting the new one (PBU1117SS10) on, which leads me to a couple of questions....
1. I heated the balancer up in the oven to around 170. It started ok but now I have to crank on it to keep moving it towards the engine. Is that normal?
Thanks!
..yes....but complete the install with a balancer install tool............not the bolt.
I actually measured it and got .152" all the way around, which I believe is in spec. I'm about to pin it with the summit kit. Seems like the pins are kind of long? Planning to split the difference between the snout face and pulley face.
Thanks man! I really appreciate it. Got it all buttoned up and just took it for a test drive. Everything works great! Crossing my fingers that there's no puddles tomorrow morning. I was told by Dayco to use the stock belts, which is true for A/C but absolutely NOT true for the serp belt. I used a 79 7/16" Gates belt that is quiet as can be. I'll edit this post with the part number.