wottogo

Switching to Z06 Ti exhaust on a 2K coupe. So, you have been there and done that. Should I raise both ends of the car up? Or, is just the back enough? How high does it need to be to get the job done?

Thanks


[Modified by wottogo, 6:42 PM 2/4/2003]

kh24

Its gotta be about 3 feet off the ground. Its not gonna be easy to do without a lift.

rgregory

My front airdam was touching the ground when I got the car high enough to get the exhaust on/off. You will have to go higher if you raise both the front and back. I would suggest only raising the rear.

On mine it was much harder to get the old off. The Ti went right on.

Bill Curlee

You will need to raise the rear up about 30+ inches. When you get that far the front spoiler will be on the ground. RECOMENDATION Drive or place your front tires up on 4X4s and then jack up the rear until you can clear the exhaust when you lower the muffler down. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!! :eek: I would also recommend doing all of the easy work( i.e. unbolt the flanges and remove the sway bar) with the car at at safer height and firmly on jack stands.

Bill C


[Modified by Bill Curlee, 8:50 PM 2/4/2003]

wottogo

That sounds pretty high. I am wondering about the car setting on jack stands when at such an angle. Will that be an issue?


[Modified by wottogo, 7:06 PM 2/4/2003]

ShelbyC5

I have an A4 and I couldn't get the old exhaust off without a lift.
We tried a full size floor jack, had the car much higher than I was
comfortable with, and still couldn't do it. It was a snap with a lift
though. I wish you luck if you try. Be Carefull!! :auto:

wottogo

Seeing how I have one, why do you think the A4 made a difference?

wamara

I believe the A4s have some additional heat shielding (just on the passenger side, if memory serves me correctly), which makes removing the exhaust in one piece more difficult. Some folks still managed, and some swore there was no way and had to cut the pipe. I suspect both are correct, the difference reflecting the production line tolerances in the system.

Shinobi'sZ

I have performed this many times on both my 97 coupe and my 01 Z. Block the front tires with a 2X4 or wedge. Use a good floor jack..you might want to drive the rear tires up on 2X4's or 2X6's..this way you can put a block under the jacking surface. Jack as far up as possible...place some jack stands underneath the rear jack locations..it might by you sometime if you have to bail out from underneath the car. The passenger side is the trickiest side to get out..you have to twist the muffler and pipe to the proper angle to get it out..this will saving you fighting with it and shaking the car a lot.

I have done the remove/install about 6 times..It is very easy with an aftermarket catback that comes in parts...With the OEM single piece it is much different. I always feel sketchy when performing this..but it can be accomplished..make sure just to use lots of precaution and trust your better judgement and common sense..I do not recommend this as the proper way to do this..but I myself have done it many times...just be careful..you can always replace the car..but not your life or health.

wottogo

Will rhino-ramps put the car up high enough to get the job done? Or do the wheels need to come off to allow the exhaust turning room.

Bill Curlee

The ramps are a start but you will need to continue jacking to get enough clearance. The Tires can stay on but the sway bar needs to come off! Like I stated previously, do all of the unbolting and parts removal when the car is safely on the ramps or stands. That way all you will need to do is jack the rear end way up, swing the mufflers down and wiggle them out. Then wiggle the new ones back in and let her down to a safe height.

Bill C

Shinobi'sZ

Rhino Ramps.....not even close...the thing needs to be jacked way up (don't raise the front end either). Here is another tip...raise the car in the rear enough to loosen everything up...un bolt them from the midpipe, and then start jacking and let the mufflers sit on the ground when they start to hang straight down, you can start manuevering them to take them out over the axle. If you undo everything before you have to lift the car way up..the less time you will have to spend underneath the car when you have it jacked way up in the air...and hopefully is more safe. Just for the record I am not stating this is the proper way to remove exhaust..this is just the way I have done it, you assume all risks while using this technique.
Good Luck.

wottogo

:yesnod: I can do this!
:thumbs: Thanks for all your sight.
:steering: It won't be any time at all before it is road time.
:cheers: Later.

ShelbyC5

Reply: The A4 has a wider transmission which makes the process more
difficult. The person I purchased my z06 exhaust from tried to help
install mine as a favor using the same jack he used on his car.
We had my azz so high that I was sweating bullets. He even popped my
rear axle out to gain some extra wiggle space. He knew what he was
doing, but even so, he agreed to quit before I went into cardiac arrest
or he broke something. :lol:
Yes, removing the heat shield was necessary, but a lift was still necessary
for my car.

Let us know how you make out....


[Modified by ShelbyC5, 3:48 AM 2/6/2003]

danielschulzjr

I did it in the driveway, jack the back up just enough to loosen everthing. exhaust flanges, rear muffler mounts, sway bar, and heat shield on passengers side. Let the exhaust pipes hang down. block both front wheels. then collect your jacking material. I used something as simple as shelving boards. They were about 8 inches wide by about 2 foot long. Then use two jacks one on each side. GO SLOW, Jack a little on each side at a time, dont let one side get too much higher than the other. Keep checking all of your jacking points and make sure nothing is shiffting. Jacxk it up just high enough to remove the exhaust. Wrap the polished ends with towels or bubble wrap works good. Work the exhaust over the axles and start the four exhaust bolts and hager bolts. Let the car down nthe same way you got it up in the air SLOW till its down far enough where you feel safe the tighten everything. Dont forget to use a torque wrench or those sway bar bushing will make noise. You will love the sound and look and no resonance like the standard exhaust. AND REMEMBER THATS YOUR LIFE UNDER THERE PLAY IT SAFE AND GO SLOW. THIS IS NOT A JOB YOU WANT TO RUSH. GOOD LUCK

bennekm

When I realized there was no way I was getting the old exhaust off with the equipment at home, I took my car to Merlin Mufflers and they installed my complete system in less than 25 minutes for $40. The $40 was worth avoiding the risk of dropping the car and spending a half day getting the 5 year old system off. My local muffler shop does a lot of custom exhaust systems, so even though it sounds like it, I was taking the car to Jiffy Lube.

kenrobb

Here is a link w/pictures on lifting a c-5. http://97vette.com/howto/carlift/index.html
There are other tech tips at various places on changing over a set of mufflers. I did mine couple of weeks ago using jacks. You need to have a min of 33" of clearance from rear bumper bottom to pavement to have the muffler hang straight down to get it out the passenger side. Yes, the auto trans on passenger side is harder to get out because of clearance. The 33" means the car rear is way up in the air. It took me 3 "lifts" to get the car that high. Used wooden blocking to support the rear cross member and jacks under the two rear side jack locations. If you have shop with lift near-by I would say go that way. Lot easier on the nerves!!

repvette

Had my local Chevy dealer do it - 40 minutes of total time, no cutting, $50.00. No way would I crawl under the car to do this with jack stands.


[Modified by repvette02, 8:55 AM 2/6/2003]

spdnman

Pay the $50 and don't risk injuring yourself. Not worth it!!!

VNAMVET

You really have to believe this.................been there................