Hey all, I have made several posts before about the automatic in my 2001 c5, I think I have decided to go with a tsp 228r camshaft, I know i will need a trans cooler to even think about handling the power. will the new power break my trans immediately? The car is a daily driver so i’m not tracking it or anything. the only time i’m ever on the throttle is if i decide to rip it down the highway or race someone. In summary can my automatic handle the 228r camshaft? (I have headers already) (I will be keeping the stock torque converter)

 

Auto transmission are funny. Some brake on the dyno. Some guys are running blowers on a stock transmission. It’s just luck.

id be more worried about the diff and converter. Your car will be much happier with a 3.73 or 3.42 and a mild 3200 stall.

You have the 2.73 or 3.15 diff?

 

I have the 315 diff

 

You also will need somewhat of a higher stall converter-----As with a cam like that you are moving the HP and TQ band up beyond the STOCK band which is Off Idle to about 6000 RPM
Now with that cam the new power band will move up to like 2200 to maybe 6400
So with a Stock converter you will be killing off the bottom end !!!
Maybe losing as much as 50 FT LBS of TQ off idle and about 25-35 HP off idle
Its well worth the effort to get a baby stall Something in the 2600 to 3000 Range

ALSO the trans will live OK But I would recommend having it tuned as well !!
1 Delete the TQ management
2 Shorten up the " Shift Times" (At P/T like .30-.35 and at WOT to .25
3 Remove about 15-17 % to the "Force Motor Current Tables" In the Trans pressure table (leave the line pressures ALONE !!)
4 Delete the 3rd gear TCC lock and unlock tables
5 Raise ALL the P/T shift speeds especially the 4th gear to where it won't shift into 4th until about 50
6 Set the TCC Pulse Width Modulation tables to read 95% minimum and 98% Maximum

All these tuning practices are normal and will make it shift firmer creating LESS fluid temps as the clutches don't slip anymore--They just SNAP quickly

 

With stock HP, my 2001 A4 has lasted 121,000 miles, 28 road course track days and 10,000 WOT 2-3 upshifts. To keep it cool the car has a B&M finned aluminum transmission pan, two extra quarts, a DeWitts radiator with both engine oil and transmission coolers, a 30,000 GVW auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the condenser and Improved Racing engine oil thermostat and oil lines to the radiator. Rear drive is 3.73.

 

Sounds like this isn't your first rodeo, with 4L60E's.

 

Im with @jim993 . 3.73 gears, 3200 stall, transmission cooler, I make 340 wheel horse through longtubes, VR, and custom tuning. I’ve done over a dozen track days, many drag strip outings, and I’m still on the stock transmission. You can do all that engine work if you want and see how it runs with a stock converter. It may be exactly what you want, but be prepared to throw a converter in there. If the transmission blows up on the Dino because of the new found power and torque, be prepared for that too. Nobody will know if your transmission will survive the Dino. It’s just luck, maybe you have a good one.

 

Firmer than stock shifts put more stress on some parts. A known weak point is the sun shell on a stock A4. Rebuilders put a much stronger sun shell in, and many other stronger parts.

A lower (higher numerically) rear drive ratio can act like a safety valve, allowing the rear tires to break loose before transmission stress reaches a breaking point.

Keeping the A4 cool is essential to lifespan. I have had to come off track at lap nine when transmission temperature reached my personal limit- 250 degrees. Finally fixed that problem with a 30,000 GVW auxiliary cooler in front of the condenser. A 20,000 GVW cooler would not keep transmission temperature below 250 as noted.