Heads, Cam, Clutch - Pull Engine?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 7
From: New York
Heads, Cam, Clutch - Pull Engine?
Hi all, so I’ll be doing a fairly standard heads cam build on my 2001 C5 this winter. I’ll do a 228R cam, 243 heads, long tubes, and all the supporting stuff like harmonic balancer, lifters, seals, etc.
I’m fairly certain that the stock clutch won’t like this very much. Being as I’ll already have the heads and exhaust manifolds off the engine, would it be easier to pull the engine out to change the clutch? Or is it still easier to do from the rear?
I’ve never pulled an engine before. I’ll be on jack stands as well for what it’s worth.
I’m fairly certain that the stock clutch won’t like this very much. Being as I’ll already have the heads and exhaust manifolds off the engine, would it be easier to pull the engine out to change the clutch? Or is it still easier to do from the rear?
I’ve never pulled an engine before. I’ll be on jack stands as well for what it’s worth.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
Hi all, so I’ll be doing a fairly standard heads cam build on my 2001 C5 this winter. I’ll do a 228R cam, 243 heads, long tubes, and all the supporting stuff like harmonic balancer, lifters, seals, etc.
I’m fairly certain that the stock clutch won’t like this very much. Being as I’ll already have the heads and exhaust manifolds off the engine, would it be easier to pull the engine out to change the clutch? Or is it still easier to do from the rear?
I’ve never pulled an engine before. I’ll be on jack stands as well for what it’s worth.
I’m fairly certain that the stock clutch won’t like this very much. Being as I’ll already have the heads and exhaust manifolds off the engine, would it be easier to pull the engine out to change the clutch? Or is it still easier to do from the rear?
I’ve never pulled an engine before. I’ll be on jack stands as well for what it’s worth.
The first time I dropped the drivetrain on a C5 was using jack stands. It was challenging, but I had all the correct tools, lighting, supporting braces, blocking, trans jack...etc. I made a dolly for for the rear cradle with 2x4s and casters. Key to success for this endeavor is owning a factory service manual.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 7
From: New York
Can't say I every seen anyone pull the engine to change a clutch, and you have to you will want to freshen up the torque tube parts (bearings, couplers, etc) anyway which requires disassembly.....dropping the transaxle is a no-brainer.
The first time I dropped the drivetrain on a C5 was using jack stands. It was challenging, but I had all the correct tools, lighting, supporting braces, blocking, trans jack...etc. I made a dolly for for the rear cradle with 2x4s and casters. Key to success for this endeavor is owning a factory service manual.
The first time I dropped the drivetrain on a C5 was using jack stands. It was challenging, but I had all the correct tools, lighting, supporting braces, blocking, trans jack...etc. I made a dolly for for the rear cradle with 2x4s and casters. Key to success for this endeavor is owning a factory service manual.
In my mind I was just thinking I’ll already have most of the engine bay empty, so it might be easier to just yank it.
In that case, I’ll probably just push my luck with the stock clutch, and when it goes it goes. Since I’m not exactly saving time doing them both at once (besides the exhaust being off).
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 520
From: Da U.P.
That's what I'd do. You should be good with heads and cam on a stock clutch if it isn't on its last leg anyway. But if in the future you do do a clutch, shaving some mass makes a noticeable difference in acceleration in 1-3.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 162
Likes: 80
From: Central NJ
You will be under 500hp so the stock clutch will still be ok. I would focus on all the engine work first, that's plenty to keep you busy. I stripped down my engine while still in the car and it's not too bad. Pulling the radiator and the accessories will open a lot of space. Get a full engine gasket kit and change as many gaskets as you can. Of course new head bolts. New balancer bolt. If you are buying 243 heads second hand, you should get them decked and checked by a machine shop. Have them re seat the valves.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 29
Likes: 7
From: New York
You will be under 500hp so the stock clutch will still be ok. I would focus on all the engine work first, that's plenty to keep you busy. I stripped down my engine while still in the car and it's not too bad. Pulling the radiator and the accessories will open a lot of space. Get a full engine gasket kit and change as many gaskets as you can. Of course new head bolts. New balancer bolt. If you are buying 243 heads second hand, you should get them decked and checked by a machine shop. Have them re seat the valves.
My balancer is also totally shot, so I’ll replace that and do all the seals I can. I also have some miscellaneous things to do while I’m in there: steering rack is leaking, ac clutch is bad (grinds with ac off, silent when on), and my oil pressure sensor is gone. Also will change out the timing set and lifters. Lots to do!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
Having it all out. I'd replace the oil pan gasket, and add an Improved Racing crank scraper. Extra HP and it is major job to do it just on its own.
IMO replace the clutch and inspect the torque tube for worn bearings and couplers if their age and prior history is unknown. Dropping the motor in with the torque tube in place is a pain to line up but doable. Having done both, I'd drop the engine in and then put the torque tube, trans diff etc in the car.
You will have to lower the subframe to get the engine in and out with a stock C5 oil pan. We support it with a transmission jack with the engine on a cherry picker.
IMO replace the clutch and inspect the torque tube for worn bearings and couplers if their age and prior history is unknown. Dropping the motor in with the torque tube in place is a pain to line up but doable. Having done both, I'd drop the engine in and then put the torque tube, trans diff etc in the car.
You will have to lower the subframe to get the engine in and out with a stock C5 oil pan. We support it with a transmission jack with the engine on a cherry picker.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 670
Likes: 358
From: Windsor, CT
If you pull the motor, the only real additional benefit would be to replace the oil pan gasket, as stated above. Unless of course you wanna degrease the engine and engine bay, then that's a great time to do that as well. If you have no interest in replacing that oil pan gasket, then I think I would default to taking the drive line out for the clutch and doing heads/cam with the motor in the vehicle.
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