I’m about to start the process of swapping my 00 a4 car to an m6 and just curious as to how you guys who have pulled a trans or torque tube from these cars have done it. This will be my first c5 swap. Been looking around and seeing people drop the cradle first then the trans separately or with the tube. Seen people dropping all 3 together. Seen dropping all 3 separately too. I’ll also be doing this on my back (yuck), as our lift is gone but at least will be using quick jacks. So, have at it. How did you do yours?

 

Just follow the factory service manual procedure. You can't lose, plus it includes all the warnings and gotcha areas that the youtube mechanics fail to document.

 

I don’t have the manual 🤷🏻‍♂️ I should also mention that I did make a living turning wrenches before I moved on so the “normal” precautions for a typical trans swap are good but these cars are a bit funky! Any source for the service manual? I swear I saw it at some point for some serious cash.

 

Ok. Good luck with your project.

 

Se the sticky under the C5 General sub-forum for the manual.

 

If you're doing an auto to manual swap, I'd buy the 3 book service manual for your year, 1999 likely works too. C5s in a way have 3 generations in 1. 97/98 with the EBCM in the rear, 99/00, and 01 had some more changes. Late 03 saw fuel system changes.

As for removing and installing the torque tube, trans, etc. We use 2 transmission jacks. One supports the rear subframe and the second the diff, trans, and torque tube. Drop the subframe, move the the jack out of the way and then the diff, trans and torque tube as one assembly next.

We unbolt the rear upper a arms and shock mounts. The lower a arms have eccentrics for alignment. There are many ways to do this but having done the job multiple times this is what we do. I don't like taking the knuckle off the balljoint.

I'd pull the intake off the motor to give the motor more room to lean back without damaging something. If you have a FAST intake, it must come off.

A metal clutch alignment tool makes things go smoother on getting the torque tube lined up on installtion.


One topics on removing everything from an Auto.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mega-pics.html

The jack we use:

 

Look for Dope c5 Clutch Install. It will have everything you need!

I've done it twice to the clutch and once to removed the diff. Biggest pain of the whole job is the clutch hydraulic quick-disconnect. Two times were done on jack stands once on a quickjack.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...all-guide.html

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the links and tips. The job looks very straight forward and only one hole to drill. I have everything except the rubber gasket for the shifter, shifter boot, and a shift ****. I have an ls6 intake that I was waiting to put on so this will be the perfect opportunity to do so. Definitely going to do the upper control arms and shocks as I too hate beating them to pop ball joints unless I have to. I did notice the eccentrics only on the bottoms so all good there too. I’m going to open up the torque tube to have a look at the rubber couplers because if I don’t I’ll be kicking myself in the rear later if I have a vibration.

I’ll take some pictures along the way and post them up here once it’s done. Keep in mind I won’t be starting for another month or so. Hoping to recoup a few dollars selling the a4 stuff when all is said and done.

 

In the process of finishing my clutch job up. I am working without a lift. Make sure you get the car up high enough to easily remove it from under the car after you get it dropped down. Honestly think I had mine about 18 inches off the ground. I built a "table" out of some scrap wood I had laying around and drilled holes in it to sit my transmission on it vertically to disassemble and replace seals and reseal the extension housing. Get a metal clutch alignment tool and take the guesswork out of the flex on the plastic one. You may need shims for your slave and the Tick tool does make it easier to measure. Not impossible without it, but quite a bit easier. Torque tube rebuild is not bad. If you know how to use a press then it might take 30 mins. I have long tube headers, they did have to be dropped but not completely removed. I see people complaining about how hard guibo bolts are to remove, but I was able to get mine out with just a 20v Dewalt 1/2" impact. Car has around 103k miles and they were pretty badly cracked and chunked out. Definitely inspect at least before just throwing a torque tube in it. Menards sells a $6 set of long reach needle nose pliers that work with no modification needed to remove the big snap ring if you have that style torque tube. The most annoying part was the top drivers side bellhousing bolt. BUY SOME 1/4" DRIVE SWIVEL SOCKETS FOR THAT ANNOYING BOLT. It really is not that bad to do a torque tube, differential, rear cradle removal. If I did not have to do the seals on the transmission then I think about 4 hours on jack stands and I could have it swapped. I removed the cradle first, then did the transmission and torque tube together. Make sure to put a remote clutch bleeder in while you are there. I'm not sure about the Auto to Manual part, but the whole thing is definitely doable on jack stands. I would not classify myself as a mechanic but I have fixed and worked on stuff throughout the years. I would recommend a new rear main seal while you are in there. It has been enjoyable to work on compared to some of the other stuff I have had to repair.

 

If your car has any electrical cables on top of the torque tube, remove them before trying to move the tube away from the engine, they would be held in place by the 4 aluminum fingers.

 

I keep seeing about this metal alignment tool. I’ve always used the plastic ones without a problem but never did a torque tube car. If anyone has a used one they want to move or a shift ****/boot let me know.

I saw the fingers on the torque tube and figured it was for a harness. I’ll drop it slow. Thanks!

 

I bought one from a member on here but the package got destroyed and the part was lost in transit. I got one from Texas drivetrain and it was about $30. The plastic one lets the clutch disc sag down some and you can feel some drag on it going into the pilot bearing.

 

FYI the connectors ( neutral safety switch for sure ) are glued together. Hit them with a heat gun on low so you don’t break them.
Follow the manual as there are plenty of little things that aren’t hard but you need to know. Things like using the two bolt holes at the front to support the prop shaft etc

 

I never had an issue with the plastic alignment tools but most of the clutches I did were on tiny 4 and 6 cylinder cars so I can see how the weight of one of these could matter. I didn’t know they were only a few bucks for the metal ones so I’ll pick one up.

3 book and supplemental service manuals are on the way. Days like this I wish I still had access to alldata 😩

 

Used a QuickJack and a couple transmission lifts.

 

That’s pretty much my setup.

 

Excellent tips