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When I had the A&A supercharger installed we put in a new GM Gold Alternator. Everything was fine for a while but Now I'm getting a Charge Fault Error message on the DIC. I can look at the Battery voltage on the DIC and it is at 13.9-14.1 continually. the message only comes up a couple of times than goes away. I've driven the car a lot and no battery drainage issues. any ideas?
The guages on these cars are "references" at best. I'd put a volt meter on the alternator positive terminal with the car running and verify what the output voltage is. I'm new to C5s but old to Chevys. I'm learning that these cars complain about EVERYTHING . I am suspecting the new alternator though...Did you replace it with a higher AMP output unit? If so, that could be your issue (not really an issue...but the car is saying hey...we are programmed to see 100 Amps, and we are seeing 110 amps when the system is loaded up [stereo, wipers, ecm, a/c, etc]). As long as the batt is charging and you dont smell smoke...I'd say send it my good man.
I'm guessing that since mine is an 01 it probably now has a 145 amp unit on it. I will hook it up and see what it's putting out. appreciate the link to the sticky. good read
I'm guessing that since mine is an 01 it probably now has a 145 amp unit on it. I will hook it up and see what it's putting out. appreciate the link to the sticky. good read
Your “charge system fault” does not have anything to do with your alternator current output or voltage…it is the incorrect voltage regulator that is installed in it…I don’t know the part numbers but you will find it in the Forum somewhere…these OEM Valeo alternators have a “soft turn on” feature where there is a slow rise in voltage when the car is started…if it’s too fast (high PWM at start up) the fault will show up…you can see this slow rise in voltage below on a good alternator with a scope…a 2 volt rise in 1.5 seconds in between the 2 vertical lines.
Nice scope capture. I'd agree, GM gets stupid with start-up tolerances some times. Another example is anything Atlas engine equipped throwing a VVT code on cold start even through the VVT works fine once it's running.
Besides swapping the regulator, you can also tune it out so it just doesn't fault anymore. That's what I did with the Atlas, turn the code off and it worked fine.
Nice scope capture. I'd agree, GM gets stupid with start-up tolerances some times. Another example is anything Atlas engine equipped throwing a VVT code on cold start even through the VVT works fine once it's running.
Besides swapping the regulator, you can also tune it out so it just doesn't fault anymore. That's what I did with the Atlas, turn the code off and it worked fine.
I'd have to say, these cars were packed with "tech" for the time. But I also can help but to think GM knew its core market demographic....older dudes who were gonna take it in to service anytime the dash beep'ed with a message . The IPC gives the driver WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY MORE information then the average owner will ever, need, want, or be able to process. It is a god send for diagnostic though.
Nice scope capture. I'd agree, GM gets stupid with start-up tolerances some times. Another example is anything Atlas engine equipped throwing a VVT code on cold start even through the VVT works fine once it's running.
Besides swapping the regulator, you can also tune it out so it just doesn't fault anymore. That's what I did with the Atlas, turn the code off and it worked fine.
I see you have a ‘98…have you ever checked the blower control PWM signal ??…I’m trying to help a shop owner who posted here a week and a half ago and was having issues with his ‘99 blower motor speed…when I scoped his PWM signal it was 5 volts (green trace below at 5 volts) looking at service info it looks like from 01 to 04 it’s a 5 volt PWM signal and 12 volts prior…his blower module is putting out 5 volts so I don’t know if he has the wrong module or HVAC head…power, ground, PWM, and serial data below…think he’s has the wrong parts installed !!
I never have, but I highly doubt that it changed. There would be no reason to do that. The manuals say the early PCM output to excite the alternator is 5V and it's really 10V.