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I just overfilled it yesterday when on the side of the road. I’ll drain some when doing the thermostat. It wasn’t overfilled when the issue happened.
Just confirming understanding here. You have too much coolant in the system. You decided to run the engine to bleed the air. You have not done a pressure test.....and you are changing the thermostat even though you have not made a diagnosis.
Just confirming understanding here. You have too much coolant in the system. You decided to run the engine to bleed the air. You have not done a pressure test.....and you are changing the thermostat even though you have not made a diagnosis.
will be doing pressure test but thermostat seems easy enough to change just in case.
will be doing pressure test but thermostat seems easy enough to change just in case.
They are easy to change. But remove your Serpentine belts, or shield them well before the change. Getting antifreeze on them can make them start squealing forever after. Is the Tstat original? What year C5? I can't remember what MY GM changed the Tstat design, maybe 2001? My 2000 had the Tstat and housing as a single unit, which is much more expensive. Later C5s had the traditional Tstat, which is much cheaper. If you change it, I'd recommend a Motorad brand. It was OEM in my 2000. But I agree with Lucky I'd pressure test the system first before changing the Tstat. Best of luck....
They are easy to change. But remove your Serpentine belts, or shield them well before the change. Getting antifreeze on them can make them start squealing forever after. Is the Tstat original? What year C5? I can't remember what MY GM changed the Tstat design, maybe 2001? My 2000 had the Tstat and housing as a single unit, which is much more expensive. Later C5s had the traditional Tstat, which is much cheaper. If you change it, I'd recommend a Motorad brand. It was OEM in my 2000. But I agree with Lucky I'd pressure test the system first before changing the Tstat. Best of luck....
it’s a 2002. Looked like I need the single unit, which is what I ordered and I got an Oem unit.
They are easy to change. But remove your Serpentine belts, or shield them well before the change. Getting antifreeze on them can make them start squealing forever after. Is the Tstat original? What year C5? I can't remember what MY GM changed the Tstat design, maybe 2001? My 2000 had the Tstat and housing as a single unit, which is much more expensive. Later C5s had the traditional Tstat, which is much cheaper. If you change it, I'd recommend a Motorad brand. It was OEM in my 2000. But I agree with Lucky I'd pressure test the system first before changing the Tstat. Best of luck....
Does it? Nothing is more odd than a hose coming off all on it's own. You are testing for weakness, not just for leaks.
Ok - just finished the pressure test. Pumped up to 15 psi and let it sit for 15 mins. Looks like the pressure dropped very slightly - looks to be right around 14.5. What would you look at next given these reading?
Did the pressure test again and remained steady at 15psi. Think I just didn’t carefully look the first time.
When the hose blew off initially, I was goosing it a bit over a period of maybe 10 mins. Wondering if that helps identify the issue. Next step on my list is installing new main radiator hoses and thermostat. Should I also try a new coolant cap?
I may be the only one, but I have had a brand new thermostat not work. Naturally, I did not find that out before I installed it. From that day forward I always boil my new thermostats before installing, and since I'm going to be boiling thermostats anyway, it just makes sense to boil the old one first.
Did the pressure test again and remained steady at 15psi. Think I just didn’t carefully look the first time.
When the hose blew off initially, I was goosing it a bit over a period of maybe 10 mins. Wondering if that helps identify the issue. Next step on my list is installing new main radiator hoses and thermostat. Should I also try a new coolant cap?
Your coolant cap should be either a 15 or 18lb cap. If they fail they generally allow LESS pressure, so the coolant would boil sooner. But it's unlikely your temps are getting anywhere near where even the earlier 15lb cap would be releasing pressure anyway.
On the other hand they are cheap and a new one would eliminate the cap as the source of your issue.
I wouldn't replace it if it were mine, I don't think your symptoms are pointing towards a cap problem.
Ok - thanks. Any ideas on next steps to trouble shoot?
I'm not even sure you have a problem at this point.
What have you done since the initial leak and overheat? What are the current problem(s) you're trying to address?
I'm not even sure you have a problem at this point.
What have you done since the initial leak and overheat? What are the current problem(s) you're trying to address?
hah that’s fair. So far all I have done is the pressure test after refitting the radiator hose and refilling reservoir tank to the correct level.
hah that’s fair. So far all I have done is the pressure test after refitting the radiator hose and refilling reservoir tank to the correct level.
I'd start it and let it idle up to temp and see how it goes. Make sure no leaks, fans are coming on, temp idling should not go over maybe 230 max.
You might leave the coolant cap off initially and watch for a steady stream of bubbles but I think your pressure test indicates you're fine so it's really not needed.
I'd start it and let it idle up to temp and see how it goes. Make sure no leaks, fans are coming on, temp idling should not go over maybe 230 max.
You might leave the coolant cap off initially and watch for a steady stream of bubbles but I think your pressure test indicates you're fine so it's really not needed.
ok - thanks. I'll do that.
Any other way to trouble shoot water pump or radiator? Its odd because the car was fine a few weeks back on a 10 hr road trip from FL to NC and then this issue came up when I was giving it more gas for a period of time. For the road trip, I just parked it in the right lane and cruised at 70.
I'll add that you need to perform the air bleed procedure to make sure the system is properly serviced first....after all maintenance is complete of course.
Any other way to trouble shoot water pump or radiator? Its odd because the car was fine a few weeks back on a 10 hr road trip from FL to NC and then this issue came up when I was giving it more gas for a period of time. For the road trip, I just parked it in the right lane and cruised at 70.
Don't know if you have the 4 corner steam pipe, or just the 2 front ones. Regardless, elevate your front end, either on a knoll in the yard or in the garage with a jack and jackstands. Go at least 2 feet up. Leave the cap off. My service manual states to vary the engine speeds from idle to maybe 2,500rpm, up and down. Also turn the heater on to high temp, although I don't think that matters on a C5, but it's a good practice. Keep your eyes on the temp gauge. You should be good in 10-15 minutes......
Regardless, elevate your front end, either on a knoll in the yard or in the garage with a jack and jackstands. .
I know my grandfather used to swear by this, but I have never personally elevated the front end to get air out of the coolant system of any vehicle I have worked on. For a C5, I believe step # 1 in the drain/fill procedure is ....."Park vehicle on a level surface".