NO, you don’t want to bypass the relay…now why do you want to clean “grounds” ????….you need a test light to check terminals 86 and 85…right now the only ground to check is the ground for the relay…get a test light with an incandescent bulb…it only draws about 250 milliamps and that is enough to check G105.

 

ok i'll try that

 

You battery may be discharged…if lead acid 12.66 is fully charged.

 

so get a test light and follow the procedure in the video to check 85 and 86 then report back? im going to have to get a test light hopefully tomorrow. i'll be back i really appreciate the help. im pretty clueless as to where to go on this.

What could the issues be?

 

its red optima but ya its only reading 12.09v... i have a charger

 

That’s pretty low !!…I make sure a battery is at least 12.45 volts to do any electrical diagnostics…now if the relay coil is good but the test light doesn’t illuminate for those 2 seconds now we have to dig further…it may be a broken wire between the PCM and fusebox or worst case bad PCM.

 

i'll charge it tonight.

Could it be the immobilizer?

 

Immobilizer (VTD) issue would cause a no start…you still need to check the control side of the relay before continuing with the diagnosis…you always let one diagnostic test drive the next one !!…is the check engine light illuminated ??…if the control side of the relay is not working it will set a P0230 if it occurs on 2 consecutive ignition cycles.

 

Thats the weird thing there are no codes thrown and i checked with my OBDII no codes at all. Ive had multiple ignition cycles.

Im going to grab a test light this morning, not sure exactly how to use it.

C5 Diag, would you potentially be available for a short call later this morning to help me diagnose a bit? If so shoot me a pm.

 

All that needs to be checked is the coil side of the relay…terminals 85 and 86….connect test light to battery negative and have your son turn the key on while you touch the tip of the test light to terminal 85…test light will illuminate for 2 seconds and go out…if that’s good now connect test light to battery positive…now touch tip of the test light to terminal 86…if the test light illuminates the coil ground is good…that’s it for the relay.

 

PM sent !!

 

C2 connector is the PCM connector and the TPA (shown below) is green…don’t remember which one C2 is…pin 9 is a dark green/white stripe wire…at fusebox the connector is C1 and pin is E12 (fuel pump relay control)…check for corrosion and pin fitment !!…BTW no relay control…other 3 terminals were good…OP will be checking circuit between PCM and fusebox…hopefully bad connection at PCM or a broken wire somewhere between PCM and fusebox.

 

Perhaps corrosion advanced just enough at that particular moment, or a wire was hanging on by a strand.

So the engine cranks and runs with 30 and 87 jumped?

 

This is a control side issue…read post #18.

 

I saw that, which precipitated my question. I guess there is just something gratifiying (for me) about the engine starting/running normally....before you jack it up, pull the wheel, remove closeout panel, remove the battery.....and dive into the wiring to investigate further.

 

Car started and ran.

 

 

Thanks all. Im going to try just a couple more things but then my family and I head out of town for Christmas so I won't be able to look at it again until friday. Just to reiterate what ive done.
- car sputtered and quit pulling into my driveway. when i tried to recrank it it didn't start but did turn over. i couldn't hear the fuel pump with its normal whine. it may have just made a faint sound (like it wasn't getting the proper voltage)
- I checked the fuse and bought a new relay. Neither worked
- I checked for any engine codes, non were found
- i check fuel pressure at fuel rail with key ON and it only dribbled
- i jumped 30 and 87 and check fuel rail and had fuel pressure
- i started the car with 30 and 87 jumped, it started but ran rough and then stalled a few seconds later (battery was dying)
- charged battery overnight
- i got a test light and checked 85 and 86. 85 (coming from PCM) i get no light when key is turned to ON, 86 i do get a light
- i have checked all of the plugs around the battery area, reseated them an sprayed each with electrical contact cleaner
- i am going to try to start the car 3 times with the relay in to see if it throws a code
- i am going to try to start the car with 30 and 87 jumped again to see if it will star
- i am going to check for spark by spraying some brake cleaner in throttle body as someone starts the car
- i want to pull the fuse box back and check all of the connections on the under side. not sure how to do this yet
- i will check the connectors and try to back pin test light at the PCM

It doesn't sound like it could be the immobilizer or crank position sensor based on data C5 Diag has gotten for me. Any other tips would be appreciated! Thank you for all your help!

I don't want to have the car towed to a shop without first trying to understand the problem myself...

 

Sounds like a plan…I’d get to the PCM and back probe the relay control wire and see if the test light illuminates with key on…if no light most likely bad PCM driver…if it lights then we have to check from PCM to fusebox…video so you can see how bad these PCM’s can get.

 

I have a pretty long update...Going to call it for tonight, but any help appreciated.

I got a fuel pressure tester and fuel pressure was fine at 60psi.
I got it to through a P0106 code so i figured MAP sensor was bad. I replaced that today, ran the same
Its an obvious misfire
I ran the car and got a P0300 code, random misfire
Cylinder 7 & 8 are both cold on the header after running it
Ive swapped spark plugs (they are new) and wires (new) but made no difference.
I will swap a coil to check

Any ideas why 7 & 8 are both dead?

Thanks