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Like I mentioned in my call best to be able to have a scan tool that can read misfires….watch the video…I use the same “diagnostic process” for every misfire I diagnose…check battery, relative compression to rule out a mechanical issue, injector and coil pack current ramps with secondary ignition checks with labscope and lastly injector balance test…in your case 8 may be showing misfires in 7 since they are next to each other in the firing order.
I have a pretty long update...Going to call it for tonight, but any help appreciated.
I got a fuel pressure tester and fuel pressure was fine at 60psi.
I got it to through a P0106 code so i figured MAP sensor was bad. I replaced that today, ran the same
Its an obvious misfire
I ran the car and got a P0300 code, random misfire
Cylinder 7 & 8 are both cold on the header after running it
Ive swapped spark plugs (they are new) and wires (new) but made no difference.
I will swap a coil to check
Any ideas why 7 & 8 are both dead?
Thanks
So you went from having a suspect bad connection between the relay socket and the PCM to a normally running fuel pump. What was the fix?
When the engine stumbled and died the sound of the fuel pump chnaged, so i assumed it was fuel related. Actually, it wasn't.
Just found this this morning on cylinder 3. So, hopefully it didn't do any other damage and it will be a pretty straightforward fix.
Any recommendations and good valve springs/retainers for a stock C5Z that I plan to keep stock? What tools are good to have when changing out valve springs on an LS? I haven't done it before.
When the engine stumbled and died the sound of the fuel pump chnaged, so i assumed it was fuel related. Actually, it wasn't.
Just found this this morning on cylinder 3. So, hopefully it didn't do any other damage and it will be a pretty straightforward fix.
Any recommendations and good valve springs/retainers for a stock C5Z that I plan to keep stock? What tools are good to have when changing out valve springs on an LS? I haven't done it before.
Right, but you confirmed with the test light that you did not have 12 volts from the PCM turning on the fuel pump relay. Was this a test-light user error?
Right, but you confirmed with the test light that you did not have 12 volts from the PCM turning on the fuel pump relay. Was this a test-light user error?
Any recommendations on valve springs? Just go with 12713265? Same for intake and exhaust right? How do I hold valve when swapping spring? Do i need to adjust/check lash after?
Piston to TDC, some use a length of rope in the cylinder or
the compressed air method works well if you have a compressor that can handle it.
Originally Posted by Sojourner
Do i need to adjust/check lash after?
If this pic you posted is your engine, you have stock rockers, so there is no adjustment. The service manual procedure is good for valve spring/seals replacement. Most important thing is having the piston at TDC for the cylinder you are working on, and making sure to never torque down the rockers on an open valve.
Ill also add that if you've ever missed a gear, or over revved and floated the valves, the retainer/keepers can be a bear to break free. Dont ask how I know....
After removing all the plugs...I always start with #1 (easier for me). For something like valve spring replacement, rockers, seals, etc....I just hook up my compression gauge to #1, and rotate the crank until I get needle movement, so I know I'm on the compression stroke, and just watch the valves.
