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Hi all,
My passenger door wouldn’t unlock so I knew it was the module since I went through the same issue on the driver side with success a few years ago.
I took out the door module and sent it for repair. I sent it to the same reputable shop that did my driver side module repair a few years ago. I got it back today. Excited! Put it all back together.
To my surprise, it won’t lock or unlock now.
I just don’t know where to go from here. Frustrated for sure, Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Ray
Does not lock or unlock with any fob or door switch but does lock/unlock when you manually manipulate the lock lever?
Are any of the controls on the passenger side working?
Any codes set related to Uxxxx?
Hi,
Thanks for responding!
It won’t open or close with the key fob or door buttons but the lock manually works open/close.(passenger side.)
The driver side works as it should.
If I were troubleshooting I'd try and figure out if that door is getting power. If not, nothing electric will work (like the window & mirror).
If it's getting power and only the lock isn't working you're back to the module. You can try and verify yourself that the correct relays were installed in the correct configuration, you can try and source another module to test, or contact the repair facility and get their suggestions for further testing.
You can test the connector at the door module to see if you're getting the correct signal, especially pins 1, 5, 6, 14.
Your service manual can help. Volume 3, pages 8-959, 8-963
I replaced both lock and unlock relay on my 2000 a couple of years ago .
I measured the voltage from relay to actuator motor with my oscillioscope before and after relay replacement .
First photo show position of the 4 relays on the driver doormodule (window up/down and lock/unlock)
I recommend to replace both lock and unlock relays due to same age on both.
The unlock voltage is very limited due to burned relay contact sets.
I just performed this fix on my 98.. New relays in the passesger door module fixed the problem.
Note that I could hear the relays clicking... so that is NOT an indication that they are OK.. It's the secondary contacts that get fried because they handle the current.
This is NOT a difficult job if you can DESOLDER the relays from the PCB.. That's the only difficult part.