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Replaced brake lines, and installed new rotors, calipers, and pads. After bleeding the brakes multiple times I can pump the pedal and get it to hold but once I take my foot off the brake pedal the next time I press the pedal it goes to the floor. Found and replaced a leaking banjo bolt and washers but the problem persists after bleeding again
Did you bench bleed the master to begin with? It can be very difficult to get a slug of air at the top of the line system to move all the way through to the end bleed screws.
Also may well be air trapped in the ABS module. Are you doing a pressure bleed, or traditional pump the pedal and hold? Pressure bleeding has the best chance of getting air all the way through. That said, in my experience it is imperative that the outlet tube, attached to the bleeder, end below the surface of brake fluid in a container. Just ensures that no air has a chance to travel back if a siphon develops. And also from my experience, Mighty-Vacs are good for many things, but brake bleeding is not one of them.
I've got a Motive unit, it works a treat as long as you can get a seal. https://www.motiveproducts.com/produ...c-bleeder-kits
Yes. I can see the fluid is clear as I bleed the brakes so I know the new fluid is coming through the lines
Why did you change all the brake system parts to begin with?
What order are you bleeding the calipers?
What method are you using to bleed the calipers?
Also, did you replace lines all the way up to the master?
I installed new powder-coated calipers and stainless steel brake lines from the hard line to the caliper but didn't replace the master cylinder. I'm bleeding the calipers RR/LR/RF/LF as recommended by the tech manual.
Last edited by 01redragtop; Jan 14, 2025 at 01:05 AM.
I didn't replace the master cylinder. I'm using Russell speed bleeders. As I mentioned, I've bled them four times with the same result. I suspect I may have hosed the master cylinder.After all, it is 24 years old. In addition to ordering a new master cylinder, I'm using a Motive pressure bleeder
Last edited by 01redragtop; Jan 14, 2025 at 01:08 AM.
I didn't replace the master cylinder. I'm using Russell speed bleeders. As I mentioned, I've bled them four times with the same result. I suspect I may have hosed the master cylinder.After all, it is 24 years old. In addition to ordering a new master cylinder, I'm using a Motive pressure bleeder
The success of the speed bleeders, is directly dependent on the ability of their body to seal to the "bleeder holes" in the caliper. In other words, if the sealant that Russel applies to the bleeder screws, when new, has been "compressed" by several uses, it no longer gives you a tight seal, so every time you press the pedal, and expel fluid, when you release the pedal, you draw a small amount of air back into the caliper. That's why I removed the speed bleeders from my car. However, if you're using the Motive bleeder now, and just using the speed bleeders like you would normally use a regular bleeder screw, disregard what I posted, above.
However, I would give consideration to the fact that the speed bleeders are designed to operate with the pressure applied by the brake pedal, which I'm pretty sure is significantly more that the line pressure that is achieved by a Motive bleeder. My suggestion, at this point, would be to put the OE bleeder screws back in place, and try bleeding the lines, one more time.....
I didn't replace the master cylinder. I'm using Russell speed bleeders. As I mentioned, I've bled them four times with the same result. I suspect I may have hosed the master cylinder.After all, it is 24 years old. In addition to ordering a new master cylinder, I'm using a Motive pressure bleeder
It sounds like you have air in the master. Before wasting a bunch of money, bleed the master on the car, reconnected the lines, and bleed the brakes again with regular bleeders. Yeah it takes longer, but you've already burned up a bunch of time anyway.
Agree with leadfoot. I also have Russell speed bleeders. But if yours have been used a couple times, you may need to reseal the threads with either Teflon tape or Teflon pipe sealing compound. I prefer the compound, but that's just me, and mine have only been used once when brand new, so I've never had to reseal them....Yet.....
If you are using a pressure bleeder, Motive or otherwise, the speed bleeders are irrelevant, they are just one way check valves to prevent air flowing back into the calipers, which the pressure bleeder already prevents. You pressurize the master cylinder, then bleed as though there was a non-stop foot on the pedal -- unless you run out of fluid in the reservoir.
If you are using a pressure bleeder, Motive or otherwise, the speed bleeders are irrelevant, they are just one way check valves to prevent air flowing back into the calipers, which the pressure bleeder already prevents. You pressurize the master cylinder, then bleed as though there was a non-stop foot on the pedal -- unless you run out of fluid in the reservoir.
You could take that a step further, and say that if you're using a pressure bleeder, then the "speed bleeders" are unnecessary. And while typing my other post, I began to wonder how much line pressure is required, to the "speed bleeders" in order to overcome the bleeders' internal spring, and allow brake fluid to freely flow. Is a Motive bleeder able to produce that pressure? When using my Motive bleeder, I generally pump it up to about 8-10 PSI....
You could take that a step further, and say that if you're using a pressure bleeder, then the "speed bleeders" are unnecessary. And while typing my other post, I began to wonder how much line pressure is required, to the "speed bleeders" in order to overcome the bleeders' internal spring, and allow brake fluid to freely flow. Is a Motive bleeder able to produce that pressure? When using my Motive bleeder, I generally pump it up to about 8-10 PSI....
If master cylinder is pressurized and brake pedal is cycled is that detrimental to the MC in any way? Doesn't seem likely that 10 psi would damage it but being applied 'backwards' from the design, maybe?
You guys are great. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I decided to replace the master cylinder with an AC Delco part since it is 24 years old. I've already had to replace the clutch master cylinder. I'll bench-bleed the master and then retry the bleeding process using my Autel MaxiCOM 808.
I'm at my wit's end. After replacing my brake lines, calipers, and a bench-bled master cylinder I can't get any brake pedal after multiple bleeds. I'm using an Autel 880 and can't get the system to complete the ABS bleed. The system calls for opening the left front bleeder screw as the Autel begins the ABS bleed process. The second step is to bleed the right front caliper. Unfortunately Autel never cycles to this second step. I continued to apply a gentle pumping motion to the brake pedal but it only resulted in draining the master cylinder. Is there anyone out there with experience with the Autel system that can shed some light on what I'm doing wrong?
So you have multiple threads going for this same problem now.
Did you get rid of the speed bleeders and install regular bleeders to get that variable out of the equation as suggested?
I find it strange that the Autel is telling you to bleed the brakes opposite of what is required. I have never bled brakes closest to the master and worked my way farther away.
The automated bleed is only required when air is suspected in the secondary circuits....or.....the BPMV has been replaced. In any case, manual or pressure bleeding is required as a first step before pressure bleeding.
I did get rid of the speed bleeders. The process for bleeding the ABS is different than bleeding the rest of the system. It does call for bleeding the front wheels first. I can't get the Auitel to move past the first step (right front wheel). Once the ABS is bled the next step would be to bleed the calipers starting at the right rear then left rear, right front then left front. As I mentioned I've pressure bled the calipers numerous times to no avail. What am I missing?
Dumb suggestion, have you maybe got the calipers on the wrong sides, make the bleeder port below the fluid level in the calipers?
I have yet to do a Corvette, whether it is even possible, but I had a Mustang that a guy had swapped calipers on and couldn't get it to bleed and he had installed the calipers on the wrong sides.
At this point, there aren't any dumb suggestions. The calipers are all installed with the bleeder screws positioned at the bottom of each caliper
Well, there you go, bleeder screw has to be at the high point, air bubbles go up to the highest point, if the bleeder is on the bottom then it is not getting the air out.
So, I would say you have them on the wrong sides, need to swap them over.
******** Yeah, just looked at a pic of the calipers******
The bleeder screws should be at the TOP, so you have them on the wrong sides for sure if they are at the bottom on the car.
Last edited by Ltngdrvr; Jan 20, 2025 at 01:10 AM.
DUH Did I screw this up! I told you there were no dumb questions just dumb shade tree mechanics. Thanks for setting me straight. I appreciate your help