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I was dropping the transmission pan (99 auto)to change the filter and one of the bolts for the transmission pan just snapped off. All the others came out fine. No room to get a vice grip on it as it broke very close to the body of the trans. Anyways, what now? I have heard of easy outs but I have lead a very charmed life in that all the wrenching I have done I have never had to use one. I left the pan on for now so that any drilling i have to do won't blow shard sinto the tranny. So what are my options? Thanks in advance
I was dropping the transmission pan (99 auto)to change the filter and one of the bolts for the transmission pan just snapped off. All the others came out fine. No room to get a vice grip on it as it broke very close to the body of the trans. Anyways, what now? I have heard of easy outs but I have lead a very charmed life in that all the wrenching I have done I have never had to use one. I left the pan on for now so that any drilling i have to do won't blow shard sinto the tranny. So what are my options? Thanks in advance
1)Center punch the fastener. Start out with a small bit, and work your way up to the required drill/hole size for the required ez-out.
or.......
2) Tack weld a nut on the fastener.
If you do not think you are skilled at either option, get the car to a trusted shop. Good luck.
Also, after center punching, use a REVERSE drill bit to drill the hole out.
Many times the bolt will back itself out when you drill it in reverse and you won't even have to use the easy out.
Drill slowly, carefully, so you don't slip and gouge the aluminum case.
It's always a pain in the **** when a simple job becomes complicated when something like this happens. All very good advice given on how to remove broken bolt, the most important thing is to accurately center punch the broken bolt, good luck.
Also, after center punching, use a REVERSE drill bit to drill the hole out.
Many times the bolt will back itself out when you drill it in reverse and you won't even have to use the easy out.
Drill slowly, carefully, so you don't slip and gouge the aluminum case.
Yes, in the trade they're known as left hand drill bits. Grainger and others have them. Agree with sending it to a shop if you lack the confidence/skills to do this yourself. As posted, start with a smaller drill bit, like a 1/8". I would use a convertional right hand bit first. Then go to, say a 3/16" LEFT HAND drill bit. If you use nothing but right hand bits, you'll be OK, but don't go bigger than, say a 3/16". You want to have a bit of wall thickness left. IIRC, these are M6×1.0 cap screws. So subtracting .1875" (3/16") from approximately .233" ( M6 major diameter with clearance), you get approximately. 045". Divided in half this leaves about a .022" thick wall left on the bolt. Most important thing here is to center punch IN THE CENTER AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE of the broken bolt. I wish you luck.....