Shock & Sway Bar Upgrade
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 692
From: Pingree Grove IL
Bilstein B6 are actually the first set of shocks I ever installed. My father is a retired mechanic, 77 years young now, can’t wrench, but is a helpful guide. Used the zip tie method to squeeze the rears in. And I have the Quickjack which my old man thought was an awesome piece of equipment. Good luck with the new shocks. And it’s a vette. Going to be a stiff ride regardless of what shocks you buy, unless you go with expensive adjustable shocks and put them on a soft setting.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,977
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
These cars are 20 years old. I woould start with shocks, end links especially if your car has the stock early plastic end links, and tires if they are old or not as aggressive as you would like.
If you want a street car with stiffer sway bars after driving the car with fresh parts, C6 Z51, or Pfadt Johnny O'connell sways could be an option. Sway bar size, spring rate, and tire size all work together to control the over or under steer. C6Zs can be more agressive with the wider rear tires.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sway-bars.html
The block is aluminum and about the same weight. The LS7 did use titanium rods which are ~180 grams less per rod. So .4 lbs per rod. LS7 used sodium filled exhaust valves and titanium intake valves.
I dodn't see 20 lbs but the weight loss does help the motor accelerate faster and make controling the valve easier.
Even if it is 20 lbs, tire size plays a greater part in choosing shock valving, springs, and sway bars.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls-blocks.html
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,966
Likes: 696
From: Avon Lake OH
The weight difference with a LS7 vs. LS1 can also be due to the required dry sump setup, unless of course is a GMPP wet sump crate engine or say a LS3 based stroker engine. Either way the noted 20 lbs difference is minimal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 529
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 137
Likes: 32
From: Bluegrass State
Bilstein B6 are actually the first set of shocks I ever installed. My father is a retired mechanic, 77 years young now, can’t wrench, but is a helpful guide. Used the zip tie method to squeeze the rears in. And I have the Quickjack which my old man thought was an awesome piece of equipment. Good luck with the new shocks. And it’s a vette. Going to be a stiff ride regardless of what shocks you buy, unless you go with expensive adjustable shocks and put them on a soft setting.
So, as I had stated previously, I went with the B6 Bilstein's. Took me a while to complete the install, I ended up with tennis elbow and it postponed my install a few weeks. I also replaced all 4 sway bar links and the rear sway bar bushings. I am still getting the squeaking noise that started all of this!! At this point I believe I am going to have to replace the control arm bushings. For what its worth, the old shocks must have been shot because it does actually ride better, aside from the damn squeaking noise. Any recommendations on control arm bushing? This car does not get driven much, 3,000 miles/year and I do not track it.
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