Engine cradle support during balancer replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 187
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Engine cradle support during balancer replacement
I've got my engine cradle resting on the subframe nuts while I'm doing the balancer on my c5 is this okay could this damage anything?
For context the leaf spring, shocks, and upper control arms, sway bar, and steering rack are removed or not bolted in. So the engine cradle is truly resting on the front subframe nuts not being pressed up against the chassis by any other suspension components.
Just wanted to ask to make sure I'm not damaging anything, most people who do the balancer just pry on the drivers side of the subframe to remove the steering rack instead lowering the frame onto the nuts by removing other suspension components.
For context the leaf spring, shocks, and upper control arms, sway bar, and steering rack are removed or not bolted in. So the engine cradle is truly resting on the front subframe nuts not being pressed up against the chassis by any other suspension components.
Just wanted to ask to make sure I'm not damaging anything, most people who do the balancer just pry on the drivers side of the subframe to remove the steering rack instead lowering the frame onto the nuts by removing other suspension components.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
I've got my engine cradle resting on the subframe nuts while I'm doing the balancer on my c5 is this okay could this damage anything?
For context the leaf spring, shocks, and upper control arms, sway bar, and steering rack are removed or not bolted in. So the engine cradle is truly resting on the front subframe nuts not being pressed up against the chassis by any other suspension components.
Just wanted to ask to make sure I'm not damaging anything, most people who do the balancer just pry on the drivers side of the subframe to remove the steering rack instead lowering the frame onto the nuts by removing other suspension components.
For context the leaf spring, shocks, and upper control arms, sway bar, and steering rack are removed or not bolted in. So the engine cradle is truly resting on the front subframe nuts not being pressed up against the chassis by any other suspension components.
Just wanted to ask to make sure I'm not damaging anything, most people who do the balancer just pry on the drivers side of the subframe to remove the steering rack instead lowering the frame onto the nuts by removing other suspension components.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,320
Likes: 1,585
From: Western NY
You are doing way more work than necessary. No need to remove upper control arms, shocks, or leaf spring. Roll the dice on the threads. Support takes the guess work out of it. No idea what year you have, which is relevant to the EBCM bracket needing to be removed and EBCM supported. Hopefully you used something to keep the steering wheel in place.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 187
Likes: 16
You are doing way more work than necessary. No need to remove upper control arms, shocks, or leaf spring. Roll the dice on the threads. Support takes the guess work out of it. No idea what year you have, which is relevant to the EBCM bracket needing to be removed and EBCM supported. Hopefully you used something to keep the steering wheel in place.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
2002 so yes I did have to remove the EBCM bracket and it is supported. Some of the suspension components aren't totally removed just unbolted.but the reason for removing the leaf and other components was due to the pinning for the balancer, the pin is mounted perpendicular instead of axial like most pin kits. Due to this the best way to get to it was to remove the leaf and drill from under instead of removing the intake manafold and water pump.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 187
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Man, that's a lot of extra work for the pinning kit, when you could have used any off the shelf balancer, and pinned the crank with from the front. No RTV.....and you have to be a contortionist to drive that pin in the crank from underneath? Not too late to change direction if you have not used the fixture. Save yourself the frustration. Let me guess, you are doing this on jack stands?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
Yes it was a bit more complicated but it seemed like the best way to do it. Tha crank is pinned and ready to go its just a matter of putting it all back together. It really wasn't to bad i just tend to ask a lot of questions because I don't want to screw anything up haha. And yes the car is on jack stands.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 187
Likes: 16
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
There is not a need to lower the subframe to get the rack out. It is a 2 man job.
With the radiator out, unbolt the rack, move the rack to the passsenger side far enough to get the driver side tire rod inside the frame rail.
You can then angle the rack up and out of the car while the second person guides the passenger tie rod inside the frame rail.
I never use air tools on the nuts attaching the subframe to the frame.
A harbor freight transmission jack can be used to support the subframe while loosening the nuts to lower the subframe. I would not fully remove the nuts just loosen them to allow the subframe to be lowered some.
With the radiator out, unbolt the rack, move the rack to the passsenger side far enough to get the driver side tire rod inside the frame rail.
You can then angle the rack up and out of the car while the second person guides the passenger tie rod inside the frame rail.
I never use air tools on the nuts attaching the subframe to the frame.
A harbor freight transmission jack can be used to support the subframe while loosening the nuts to lower the subframe. I would not fully remove the nuts just loosen them to allow the subframe to be lowered some.
