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Timing cover alignement

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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 05:16 PM
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Default Timing cover alignement

Hello
im trying to align the timing cover.
im using a alignment tool. I have also tried with other tool without the Seal installed.
But the cover sits to high.
And i cant get it any lower, no matter what.
Tried to losen some of the oil plan bolts with no luck.
I was thinking of milling the cover like 0.5mm
What do you think?


Is this a common problem?


Last edited by Doski; Mar 18, 2025 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 05:53 PM
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Is it upside down?
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:09 PM
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What is upside down?
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:26 PM
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Bolt it all the way properly, then check it with the Balancer in. That tool is most likely smaller diameter than the Balancer Hub.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Doski
What is upside down?
Do not mill an material off the cover. You will regret that for sure.

I have never used an LS timing cover too that had you put in the crank seal first. That does not make sense. What brand alignment tool is that.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:51 PM
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My seal was leaking from recent can swap.
so i dont want to do this again.

There are 2 tools, one you use without the seal installed. And one with Seal installed. I tried the first but it would not center 100% i had to force the tool in, and as soon i torqued the bolts it got stuck,
I put the Seal on and after i tried the tool you use with Seal installed. Its suposed to be the same size as the pulley. And when i put the tool on you see the gap above.
I cant get it to come lower, i tried differnt ways. It just sits to high. Why Will it be a problem milling just a little bit?

Last edited by Doski; Mar 18, 2025 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Doski
My seal was leaking from recent can swap.
so i dont want to do this again.

There are 2 tools, one you use without the seal installed. And one with Seal installed. I tried the first but it would not center 100% i had to force the tool in, and as soon i torqued the bolts it got stuck,
I put the Seal on and after i tried the tool you use with Seal installed. Its suposed to be the same size as the pulley. And when i put the tool on you see the gap above.
I cant get it to come lower, i tried differnt ways. It just sits to high.
The tool that does aligns the cover without the seal installed is supposed to be tight, and you should lubricate the interfering surfaces. Once the cover is snug, you have to rotatate the tool a pull at the same time. You will also have a much more difficult time if the oil pan is still tight against the block.

Originally Posted by Doski
Why Will it be a problem milling just a little bit?
I'm not going to give a tutorial on tolerance stack up, thermal expansion, and intended design. You take off material, and I can almost guarantee it will leak.
...and in the words of Forest Gump......"that's all I have to say about that"....
Good luck.

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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Doski
And when i put the tool on you see the gap above.
You know that outer lip is just a dust seal, right?

The inner one is the one that is critical.

Dab of RTV in each bottom corner, Corver Gasket, Cover in bolted and torqued properly, Balancer back on and send it. It'll be fine.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 03:05 AM
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I had the cover mixed up with the gasket, sorry. But make sure the gasket is on right or you'll have an oil leak and have to do the job all over again.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
You know that outer lip is just a dust seal, right?

The inner one is the one that is critical.

Dab of RTV in each bottom corner, Corver Gasket, Cover in bolted and torqued properly, Balancer back on and send it. It'll be fine.
I did not know. But still, doesent it have to be sealed? Also the gap tells its not aligned?
i already had one leak, dont want to do this again.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
The tool that does aligns the cover without the seal installed is supposed to be tight, and you should lubricate the interfering surfaces. Once the cover is snug, you have to rotatate the tool a pull at the same time. You will also have a much more difficult time if the oil pan is still tight against the block.


I'm not going to give a tutorial on tolerance stack up, thermal expansion, and intended design. You take off material, and I can almost guarantee it will leak.
...and in the words of Forest Gump......"that's all I have to say about that"....
Good luck.
The tool was so snug that it would not turn when the bolts were torqued. I also lubricated.

Since there are some tolerances 0,5 mm shouldent hurt anything?

i really dont know what else to do. Have tried everything else.
when i torque the bolts the tool is still in place but stuck. I can get it out with force. When i put on the seal and the other tool i still have the gap? This is also the third seal im trying with.
Tired of this ****..
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 06:06 AM
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I think you're over thinking at this point, or installed the previous ones wrong.

On the inner seal surface before you put the Balancer on you want to take your finger and coat it with a very light coating of oil.

You want to make sure the Balancer Hub has no groove in it or any kind of scum on it. Easiest way to clean it is a green scrubby sponge with a little bit of oil. Basically clean it back from where the seal rides, you'll be able to see it.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:17 AM
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Looking at the picture, A) it appears that the seal isn't sitting "square" in the timing cover; and B) Is that some sort of sealant that I see, around the outer lip of the seal?? If so, it shouldn't be there, as far as I know....
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 07:31 AM
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Put the cover on, loosely bolted down... Put either the tool in or the balancer. Rotate the tool on the crankshaft as you snug the bolts down. Your critical focus point is going to be that the bottom face of the cover is equal distance from the pan/block on both sides. So if one side is sticking down 2-3mm and the other side is up that same amount, get both sides as close to zero as possible.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mykream
Put the cover on, loosely bolted down... Put either the tool in or the balancer. Rotate the tool on the crankshaft as you snug the bolts down. Your critical focus point is going to be that the bottom face of the cover is equal distance from the pan/block on both sides. So if one side is sticking down 2-3mm and the other side is up that same amount, get both sides as close to zero as possible.
I did this, and the picture is the result
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 03:31 PM
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I did mine back in 2012 w/o the tool. Install the seal, slide the cover on, be careful with the bolts, RTV, and torque it down. Never leaked.
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx7Rob
I did mine back in 2012 w/o the tool. Install the seal, slide the cover on, be careful with the bolts, RTV, and torque it down. Never leaked.
That's how I've done the dozens of LS Engines I've been into. No problems.
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