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I'm going MGW for my car, I'll be ordering in next week or two. The Tick perf is a nice looking unit, with improvements. BUT......... a 50% price difference over the MGW is tough to constitute.
This question will net as many subjective answers as "what's the best underwear?". So many factors... especially cost/budget, shifting effort, how short of throw, and firmness.
I've had 2 separate used full MGW shifters (upper + lower) that went with a C6 **** on my 2001 Z06:
#1: several years ago I sold that MGW because I preferred a C6/C7 shifter with TMOD lower box
#2: more recently I ran a different MGW for a couple weeks (was servicing my C6 Hurst shifter that sat on TMOD lower box). As soon as I was able, the C6 Hurst + TMOD lower box went back in and I sold the MGW.
Needless to say, C6 Hurst + TMOD blower box is currently my favorite of the shifters I've used: C5, C6/C7 (with TMOD box), MGW.
Along with a TMOD-upgraded shift linkage, the shifts are very tight and there's nearly zero slop, yet there's not much vibration/noise emanating from the shifter.
Many here love the MGW, though...
Last edited by MetalMan2; Mar 21, 2025 at 11:29 AM.
If you upgrade your box it will make any shifter much smoother, more precise and much less vague and floppy. The lower half of the shifter assembly; the box, is responsible for most of the vibration and sloppy feel of the stock shifter. By upgrading the box you replace the old, worn components giving you the best possible performance out of whatever shifter you run on top. I often recommend upgrading the box before you make a decision on a shifter. Tons of my customers are perfectly happy with the stock shifter; C5, C6 or C7 on the upgraded box.
If you want to reduce the height of the **** or the throw of the stick (two completely different things) you can always add that later depending on how much reduction, height, shift effort, vibration dampening, etc you are looking for. The box upgrade is cheap and it's often all you need.
If you upgrade your box it will make any shifter much smoother, more precise and much less vague and floppy. The lower half of the shifter assembly; the box, is responsible for most of the vibration and sloppy feel of the stock shifter. By upgrading the box you replace the old, worn components giving you the best possible performance out of whatever shifter you run on top. I often recommend upgrading the box before you make a decision on a shifter. Tons of my customers are perfectly happy with the stock shifter; C5, C6 or C7 on the upgraded box.
If you want to reduce the height of the **** or the throw of the stick (two completely different things) you can always add that later depending on how much reduction, height, shift effort, vibration dampening, etc you are looking for. The box upgrade is cheap and it's often all you need.
I went from a C6Z (how a stock shifter *should* feel, honestly) to the Hurst. It's really short, feels good but can be difficult to suss out what gear you're in if you aren't super experienced driving short shift manuals.
I put the billet box in my car and couldn’t be happier! Follow the directions precisely and it works perfectly. Have any issues, just email Tom and he gets back to you very quickly. Great product and service!
I have a couple options, they all fell the same the difference is power and convenience. The factory box can be sent in and upgraded, I usually have them back in the mail within a day or two. Sometime I have upgraded factory boxes in stock and ready to ship but not always. Non-Z06 boxes can get Poly or Solid torque tube bushings; Poly, softer, is preferred for cars at or under 500HP, they dampen vibration a little better than the solid mounted setup, the difference is minimal. If you can't have the car down while you send your box in to be upgraded, and I don't have any in stock the Billet Box is my aftermarket replacement for the stock box. The Billet Box uses the same internal components as the upgraded factory box, it is solid mounted like a Z06 box, no Poly torque tube option. Either way you go with the box if your running a stock shifter or any shifter that uses the stock pivot bushing on the bottom (which is all of them I believe aside from MGW) will feel much better and it will stay that way for the life of the car.
Let me know what sounds good to you, I'm happy to answer anything I can. Thanks you for the kind words guys!
Cap and bushing. The cup itself installed through there initially.
One thing which needs to be remembered is that the T56s everyone has are all different, and all of them have seen up to 28 years of relatively aggressive driving. They may take a beating and keep going but they also can be hard shifts. These same short shifters on a fresh box or on a 6060 are far smoother by nature. Annoying facts of life.